Dissatisfied with the stock speakers, I decided to replace them. This tutorial will cover the removal of the door panels and installation of 6x9 speakers in the Jeep Renegade with 6 speaker system. The speakers are being powered from the stock head unit. If I feel the need to amplify them down the road, at least this part is out of the way.
You will need:
One Philips Head Screwdriver
One T30 Torx bit
One T20 Torx bit
Door panel removal tool (plastic)
On a side note, our Renegades are so new that they do not appear in current catalogs that sell aftermarket wiring harnesses or fit kits. I found that the 2014 Jeep Liberty speaker wiring harness kit worked perfectly. Just ask for one of those. I got mine at BestBuy along with the speakers. The harness will allow you to not have to cut the stock harness to connect your speakers. This is reversible with the wiring harness.
This is where we will be doing battle today. Find a cool spot, each door shouldn't take more than thirty minutes. Check around the perimeter of the door panel, and you will find two covers that are hiding one Philips head screw each. The very bottom of the panel has one as well, you will need to get on the ground to access it.
Pry out the plastic covers. Use your plastic tool so you don't wreck the covers.
Bottom screw does not have a cover.
Now, there are three more hidden bolts. You will need the T30 Torx bit to remove these. They are all the same size and length, so no worries getting them mixed up.
Pry out the small rubber cover in the door handles grab cup.
Be sure to use the plastic removal tool so that you don't scratch anything.
Peek-a-Boo! There's the first one.
Using your T30 bit, remove this bolt. You will then use the thin part of your plastic panel removal tool to pry the plastic control panel out of the door. Be very careful, as it is loosely hinged at the back portion, and may easily break if you're not careful. I'm clumsy, and I managed to keep it intact. You've been warned.
Now, disconnect the two wiring harnesses and set the plastic panel aside.
Now, there's a sneaky little bolt back up in there at the top of the open gap. Reach in there and get it out with your T30 Torx bit.
One more Torx bolt, and we'll be clear....
It's hiding under the cover under the door handle.
Use your plastic panel tool to gently pry this off.
Now, take a deep breath, because the next part is a little nerve wracking. All the bolts are out, but the door panel still is clinging close to the door frame with body clips. You will need to pry the panel away from the door. I started at the bottom rounded corner and pried it loose with the panel tool. Once I could get my fingers under it, I jerked it a little and worked my way around the edges. There are no clips in the center. Get the bottom and the sides free of the clips, then lift the door panel up off of the window sill.
DON'T GO TOO FAR WITH IT. The panel is still attached with one more wiring harness and also the linkage for the door lock and door handle. Remove the one wiring harness and either remove the linkages or set the panel on the ground leaning against the door. I didn't remove the linkages, as they didn't need to be.
The panel is now off, and you can remove the factory "speaker". I use the term loosely, as they are quite cheaply made.
You will need another smaller Torx bit, a T20 to remove the factory 6x9.
I had no problem installing my Kicker 6x9'S in the same space. I usedKicker 41KSC6934 6x9 three ways. The wiring harness for the Jeep Liberty worked perfectly.
Woo! Looks good. Sounds good. Now to do the other side. I may not do the rears, as they will be set for rear fill, but we'll see. I also need to replace the 3.5" speakers in the dash. It looks like those panels just pop out, but will confirm when I change them out.