How to change your MultiAir 2.4L Oil and Filter [DIY] - Jeep Renegade Forum
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post #1 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-21-2015, 07:09 PM Thread Starter
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How to change your MultiAir 2.4L Oil and Filter [DIY]

Prerequisites

Oil filter wrench (or you can just use your hand, plenty of room)
12mm socket, or equivalent SAE
5.5 quarts of 0w-20 oil. I used M1 Advanced
Oil filter. I used Purolater L122222
Drain pan
Some kinda funnel. Don't make a mess.
Shop towels
Maybe some ramps? Can probably be done without ramps if you have long arms
Gloves


Steps

  1. Get your gloves
  2. Warm up engine, but not crazy. It's hot oil , bro.
  3. Wait for your neighboors to make snide comment about Chrysler or American cars...
  4. Get the Renegade in the air. Be safe, please.
  5. Open hood and remove the oil cap. Don't remove it all the way, just crack it open. Don't want anything falling in.
  6. Loosen oil filter slightly to make sure it will even come undone.
  7. Position drain pan [incorrectly] and loosen the drain plug.
  8. Watch it drain.
  9. I usually pour a little bit of fresh oil at this point to help flush out the old stuff. Not too much though.
  10. Tighten drain bolt back up. Not too tight! Doesn't require much force, just snug and then a little more.
  11. Remove oil filter. It will be full of oil. Be sure to have drain pan under it.
  12. Let it drain a little bit from oil filter housing
  13. Use a little oil on the gasket of your new filter, then spin it on. Again, don't over tighten. I always install oil filters by hand.
  14. Pour in 5.5 qt of fresh oil
  15. Put oil cap back on
  16. Start engine
  17. Make sure no leaks...
Enjoy!




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Last edited by codev; 05-21-2015 at 07:11 PM.
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post #2 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-21-2015, 07:39 PM
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Thanks. The Trailhawk may require the removal of the front skid plate for easy access of the filter & drain plug. There are 5 Torx bolts holding the bumper cover onto the front of the skid plate, and 10 additional hex bolts holding the skid plate itself. I may modify my skid plate with access "holes" the first time I have it off.

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post #3 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-22-2015, 10:51 AM Thread Starter
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Also - You don't need to take off the plastic engine shield on the top. It does makes things a little easier to clean up/pour. I was removing the COP packs at the same time because I had to diagnose a misfire. Turns out it was a loose plug, lol.
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post #4 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-22-2015, 12:16 PM
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I guess I should check my coil pack connections too although I haven't experienced any mis-fires.

Is the 2.4 a single spark plug per cylinder?

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post #5 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-22-2015, 12:26 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwbike View Post
I guess I should check my coil pack connections too although I haven't experienced any mis-fires.

Is the 2.4 a single spark plug per cylinder?
Yes, just 4 total. If you're going to be in there, you might want to check the gaps if you're experiencing idling problems. That was causing some of the Dart 2.4L owners a little grief.

My gaps were a little short, but didn't change much in my instance.
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post #6 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-22-2015, 01:04 PM
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Thanks for the info. Mine runs very well so far (knocks wood) at just over 1,000 miles. I haven't been driving the car a lot lately since the weather has been nicer and I use the Road King (motorcycle) to get to work most of the time.

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post #7 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-22-2015, 03:53 PM
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Just wanted to mention if you own a Trailhawk you will not need to use ramps (lift the vehicle) to do the oil change. I'm 5'8", 160 lbs and I had absolutely no problem getting under it when I did my fist oil change. Used Mobil 1 Extended performance oil and OEM filter. Don't forget to buy a 6 pack of your favorite beer! (or favorite beverage). Drinks come in handy while you wait for the oil to drain

BTW, I removed the front skid plate until I need to use it again. This is because it's a pain in the ass to put it back on by yourself (it's kind of heavy), it weights about 50 lbs, so I decided to leave it off to save get better gas mileage. It might not make a huge difference, but it never hurts to drive with 50 lbs less. I will put it back on once winter is back!

Great write up!
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post #8 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-01-2015, 08:38 PM
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Codev! I'm wondering if you renegade has a plastic under engine cover? I ask because you didn't mention it in your instructions.

I put my renegade on ramps about 4 hours ago to see what has to be done to change the oil. Mine has a plastic under cover, it's about like I had on a Mazda 3. Anyway I see no way to change the oil and filter without removing the cover. It takes a 10 mm socket and a short Philips screwdriver to remove it. Two bolts w/10 mm head on front and two on rear. Two small Philips screws on each side of the cover. Just takes a few minutes to remove but not as easy to install.

I would attach a photo but it appears I cannot attach a photo from my computer.


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Last edited by flash75; 06-01-2015 at 08:40 PM. Reason: Change wording
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post #9 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-02-2015, 01:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by codev View Post
Also - You don't need to take off the plastic engine shield on the top. It does makes things a little easier to clean up/pour. I was removing the COP packs at the same time because I had to diagnose a misfire. Turns out it was a loose plug, lol.
No crush washer on the oil pan plug?
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post #10 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-02-2015, 01:33 PM Thread Starter
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@flash75 , I did not have a cover. It is good that you figured that out. Do you have the 2.4L ? Any pics of the belly pan you have would very much help other memebers I'm sure.
@raz-0 , The drain plug has some sort of integrated gasket. I have attached a picture for you to see. The part number associated with the drain plug mentioned here is 06506214AA.
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