The battery charge in the dash betwee tach and speedo should read around 14v, this is essentially your alternator readout, that it is putting out efficiently to keep the battery charged - it won't change much in normal use. (Warning lights that look like a battery are usually a warning that the alternator or charging system has failed and the car is running off its battery alone, not an indicator there is something wrong with the battery)
The Jeep skills app showing amps I suspect is showing amp Load which represents the current draw on the system. (I am guessing) If you connect something power hungry to the 100v inverter for example I would expect the amp load to go up.
The Battery Status gauge I think is intending to show battery health as it relates to voltage...
Commonly held statuses are as follows
Battery Voltage and State of Charge:
12.66v . . . . . . . . . . 100%
12.45v . . . . . . . . . . 75%
12.24v . . . . . . . . . . 50%
12.06v . . . . . . . . . . 25%
11.89v . . . . . . . . . . 0%
Keep in mind 100% is an ideal state and not really attainable.
If your battery voltage is less than 12.45 volts (75 percent charged), it is low and should be recharged. This can be done by connecting a portable battery charger to your battery, or by driving your car for 15 to 20 minutes at 40 mph or faster.
Automotive lead-acid batteries should be maintained at a 75 percent charge level or higher for best performance and life. If the battery is allowed to run down and is not brought back up to 75 percent or higher charge within a few days, the battery may be permanently damaged. Sulfation can prevent the cell plates inside the battery from accepting a full charge. Over time, this will lead to diminished battery performance and life.
But there are many reliable sources for this info.
Long story short, I don't think 80% reading is an indication of a "problem" - sometimes the granularity of detail we can now get in this modern world makes us look for problems that aren't really there. It's human nature. Hope this helps.