Jeep Renegade Forum banner

Tutorial: Door Panel Removal and Speaker Installation

287K views 295 replies 117 participants last post by  Natesroom 
#1 · (Edited)
Dissatisfied with the stock speakers, I decided to replace them. This tutorial will cover the removal of the door panels and installation of 6x9 speakers in the Jeep Renegade with 6 speaker system. The speakers are being powered from the stock head unit. If I feel the need to amplify them down the road, at least this part is out of the way.

You will need:
One Philips Head Screwdriver
One T30 Torx bit
One T20 Torx bit
Door panel removal tool (plastic)

On a side note, our Renegades are so new that they do not appear in current catalogs that sell aftermarket wiring harnesses or fit kits. I found that the 2014 Jeep Liberty speaker wiring harness kit worked perfectly. Just ask for one of those. I got mine at BestBuy along with the speakers. The harness will allow you to not have to cut the stock harness to connect your speakers. This is reversible with the wiring harness.


This is where we will be doing battle today. Find a cool spot, each door shouldn't take more than thirty minutes. Check around the perimeter of the door panel, and you will find two covers that are hiding one Philips head screw each. The very bottom of the panel has one as well, you will need to get on the ground to access it.



Pry out the plastic covers. Use your plastic tool so you don't wreck the covers.

Upper


Lower


Bottom screw does not have a cover.


Now, there are three more hidden bolts. You will need the T30 Torx bit to remove these. They are all the same size and length, so no worries getting them mixed up.

Pry out the small rubber cover in the door handles grab cup.


Be sure to use the plastic removal tool so that you don't scratch anything.

Peek-a-Boo! There's the first one.


Using your T30 bit, remove this bolt. You will then use the thin part of your plastic panel removal tool to pry the plastic control panel out of the door. Be very careful, as it is loosely hinged at the back portion, and may easily break if you're not careful. I'm clumsy, and I managed to keep it intact. You've been warned.

Now, disconnect the two wiring harnesses and set the plastic panel aside.


Now, there's a sneaky little bolt back up in there at the top of the open gap. Reach in there and get it out with your T30 Torx bit.



One more Torx bolt, and we'll be clear....

It's hiding under the cover under the door handle.



Use your plastic panel tool to gently pry this off.


Now, take a deep breath, because the next part is a little nerve wracking. All the bolts are out, but the door panel still is clinging close to the door frame with body clips. You will need to pry the panel away from the door. I started at the bottom rounded corner and pried it loose with the panel tool. Once I could get my fingers under it, I jerked it a little and worked my way around the edges. There are no clips in the center. Get the bottom and the sides free of the clips, then lift the door panel up off of the window sill.

DON'T GO TOO FAR WITH IT. The panel is still attached with one more wiring harness and also the linkage for the door lock and door handle. Remove the one wiring harness and either remove the linkages or set the panel on the ground leaning against the door. I didn't remove the linkages, as they didn't need to be.

The panel is now off, and you can remove the factory "speaker". I use the term loosely, as they are quite cheaply made.

You will need another smaller Torx bit, a T20 to remove the factory 6x9.

I had no problem installing my Kicker 6x9'S in the same space. I usedKicker 41KSC6934 6x9 three ways. The wiring harness for the Jeep Liberty worked perfectly.



Woo! Looks good. Sounds good. Now to do the other side. I may not do the rears, as they will be set for rear fill, but we'll see. I also need to replace the 3.5" speakers in the dash. It looks like those panels just pop out, but will confirm when I change them out.
 
See less See more
11
#191 ·
The rear speakers are the exact same as the front. The issue is that the opening seems to be a bit more shallow than the fronts thus the reduced speaker size (that's what the rep at Crutchfield indicated and it appeared that way too).

As for the dimensions: approximately 4.5 inches (narrow), 6.5 inches (length), and 8.0 inches (diagonal). These were measured off the removed speaker with a tape measure so they me be off a smidge. I'm imagining that since my front replacements lined up with no issue and since the rear conversion plate also lined up that the screw dimensions are somewhat standardized...but that's just my opinion.
 
#192 ·
I finished my speaker install on the 6 speakers system. I went with 2 Pioneer 3.5 2-ways front dash, very easy. Installed 2 Pioneer TS-A6965R 3-ways in the rear doors. I installed them in the rear to balance out the sound from front to back, was just way to much coming from the front. I couldn't be more please with the sound. Unlike what I heard about the beats audio, the rear speakers do receive a full range signal and the 3-says sound great. The cheap speakers I pulled out were light and had one of them built in paper tweeter cones. Total junk.

Not sure I'm going to do the front doors yet, like I said the sound is amazing. I have some deep tight bass coming from the rear now and the fronts I think add some more bass, but all the muffled mids and bass is gone. It really balance out the sound and fills the car. Probably could have spent some more money and got some better speakers, but I've always liked Pioneer for car audio. If I do the fronts I'm going with a upper model Pioneer 6x9, but for now I couldn't be more pleased and I'm somewhat of a audio geek. I love sound that is reproduced as close to the original recording.

If you on the fence about updating the speakers, don't be, it is night and day difference and my total cost was 90 dollars. I only damaged one door clip and was able to reuse it though. Just make sure you have trim removal tools and go slow and find the clips and use the tool to pop them.

Good luck for those who update. jjp
 
#195 ·
Paper cones aren't necessarily bad...some very fine and expensive speakers are paper cones...however, the polish built speakers in my 6 speaker systems were complete crap. Btw, the kickers I replaced them with were paper cones as well! But better made paper, bigger magnets and overall much better sound.
shockcrazy, I did NOT put the bass blockers in when I replaced the dash speakers. If I really crank the system, I can make then distort on very bass heavy tracks, but 99% of the time, they sound very good without bass blockers.
 
#204 ·
I have the Nav radio with 6 speakers. I completed my speaker upgrade last weekend. I installed two pair of JBL GX963 (doors) and a pair of JBL GX302 (dash). I used Metra 71-039C adapters up top and Metra 72-6514 (reversed the leads) down low. The install was a breeze. All speakers fit in the factory locations reusing all the factory mounting screws and I have no clearance issues. The system sounds excellent; great bass, clear vocals and no loss of volume. I couldn't be more pleased with the outcome! The only issue I had during the install was the shocking fact the ALL of the clips holding on the drivers door panel were missing! You could tell they were never installed from factory due to the lack of stress marks on the mounting locations. Nice work Team FCA! Thankfully my local parts store had some older 1-piece GM style clips that worked. The entire install was under $260 too!
 
#207 ·
Just installed the kicker door speakers that a lot of people have gone with, did anyone else feel underwhelmed? I'm guessing because they're 4ohm and the stock speakers are 2ohm, but my stock speakers sounded much louder and had much better bass; about to go reinstall the stocks and return these kickers.
 
#208 ·
I upgraded my dash speakers but not the door speakers because of the hassle of getting the door panels off. Also I noticed that not a lot of sound comes from the door, mainly lower midrange and upper bass. If your replacements are not as loud then I can understand they don't sound so impressive, and you have no control over the relative volume of all the speakers. It makes me even less inclined to upgrade mine.
 
#216 ·
Same here. I have the 6.5" UConnect with 6-speaker setup. The Kicker 3.5 (41KSC354) dash speakers was a VERY noticeable upgrade and well worth it. Days later I Installed the Kicker 6x9 (http://www.kicker.com/41KSC6934) in the front doors only and it didn't sound right, little off. Returning the 6x9 as well.


I have the Nav radio with 6 speakers. I completed my speaker upgrade last weekend. I installed two pair of JBL GX963 (doors) and a pair of JBL GX302 (dash). I used Metra 71-039C adapters up top and Metra 72-6514 (reversed the leads) down low. The install was a breeze. All speakers fit in the factory locations reusing all the factory mounting screws and I have no clearance issues. The system sounds excellent; great bass, clear vocals and no loss of volume. I couldn't be more pleased with the outcome! The only issue I had during the install was the shocking fact the ALL of the clips holding on the drivers door panel were missing! You could tell they were never installed from factory due to the lack of stress marks on the mounting locations. Nice work Team FCA! Thankfully my local parts store had some older 1-piece GM style clips that worked. The entire install was under $260 too!
So the JBL GX963 (http://www.jbl.com/car-speakers/GX963_.html) lined up no problem with the factory mounting holes AND the no problem installing in rear doors? That's GREAT NEWS! Looking at top-mount depth measurement on crutchfield, these JBL 6x9s are shallower than the Kickers (http://www.kicker.com/41KSC6934) by about 1/4". In addition they run at 2ohm (Kickers = 4ohm) which appears to be the factory 6x9s rated. These JBLs seem the perfect match. Thanks for sharing.
 
#209 ·
Wow. Replaced the front dash speakers with Kicker 3 1/2 CS354 and 600hz bass blockers. Very easy install as most people have said. The Chapman mini ratchet #1068 made even more easy. Now have treble and better mid range and don't feel the need to turn up the volume to hear voices. Would recommend this upgrade even if you're satisfied as is. It should help with voice clarity making/receiving calls as well.
 
#210 ·
Hi all, just joined. First post! I just tried to install some Alpine SPS619s and also a pair of Alpine SPR-69s. Neither pair fit in the front door baffle. The baskets were too large.

Are we SURE this is a 6x9 opening and not 6x8?

Also, I noticed that the factory speakers' foam surrounds face in, not out. Are these speakers wired in opposite phase of standard, so as to play in, not out? If so, it might be ideal to replace all 4 and flip the positive and negative wires in the harness so that your aftermarket speakers play out in the direction on the rubber surrounds.
 
#212 · (Edited)
Important info!!

The opening for these 6x9s is undersized. I tried to install Alpine Type S AND Alpine Type R 6x9s, neither of which would drop in past the edge of the baskets.

Also, make sure that if use a speaker wire harness, that the negative wire goes to the black stripped wire in the factory harness. Otherwise your speakers will be out of phase with the rear. I had to switch the wires around in my Metra factory speaker harness adapters, no biggie.

Being sad about not being able to install the Alpines, I went with Kicker CS series 6x9s. Let me be clear in saying that this was an INCREDIBLE upgrade for $70. The factory speakers are complete horse ****. As is usually the case :)

The Kickers are the only ones so far that fit. Check their external dimensions and go with that for your speaker size. Do yourself and make the upgrade if you spend any length of time commuting and jamming out!
 
#215 ·
At last check this only fit the 2015 Renegade not the 2016. Also at $500 it is very pricey. Could see it at $300 but not $500.
Did install the front dashboard 3.5 Kicker speakers today. Very easy install especially with the wiring harness. For a cost of $39.95 shipped including wiring harness it was a no brained. Quick listen did verify that voices were clearer and music did have a overall better sound to them.
Next up is dynomat the doors and front speaker upgrades.
 
#221 ·
This is a long thread and I'm adding my story to it. Vehicle: 2015 U.S. Trailhawk with mid-level 6 speaker system (no navigation).

Last summer I replaced the dash speakers with Polk DB351 using Metra 71-039C wiring adapter. That was so easy and improved the sound 100%. Highly recommended.

Today I replaced the front door speakers with Kicker 44KSC6904 using Metra 71-050 wiring adapters. Not too easy, but OP's write-up helped a lot. Thank you! Sounds 150% better now.

A couple of notes from my experience with the door speakers:

I broke one door clip in the process. I found a reasonable one piece replacement at my local auto parts store (Reilly's item 454660BP for Fords). It fits the door panel perfectly and fits the metal hole in the door okay when bottomed out. The door panel is secure, but I'll admit that it's tough to tell how well the one replacement fastener is holding.

Attached is a photo that shows the door panel with blue tape marking the location of the hidden clips.

Besides the 3 Philips head screws, the other 3 that hold the door panel are 5mm Allen head screws (not torx). The screws holding the speaker were T25 torx.

Honestly, the hardest thing for me was getting the damn cover off behind the door latch. I have a full set (plus) of panel removal tools, but none I had made that job easy.

I did need to make 2 new holes to get screws into the 4 speaker mounting holes. There was enough material adjacent to the misaligned holes that I was able to make a pilot hole and get a good grip with the screw threads.

The OE speakers on this system were 4 ohms and I didn't do anything special with the phasing (+ to + and - to -).

Sounds great!
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: Donovan Gomes
#223 ·
Hey guys, just went from a 04 Wrangler, to the 2016 Renegade. Stereo seems fine would like a sub, seen that one website has a custom one for Renegade, but I got a Trail hawk and says it has to be modded to fit anyone installed one?
Second I was going to order the Polk mentioned in this thread from Crutchfield, but website says no longer available any other recommendations?
 
#224 ·
the cleanest install would be the one from madness but it does not fit all of our renes

the next best thing would be a powered tube sub - would make a clean install and no messy wires all over , and look good too.
but im happy with my stock stereo



i added the kicker front dash speakers though - it made such a big change in the sound up front, i can hear things much more crispy and clean so im happy as is

but for 85 bux it will probly get installed one day lol

Rockville RTB80A 8" 400 Watt Powered Subwoofer Bass Tube
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top