First Name: Ed
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Pioneer, California
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How to remove you oil pan on the Tigershark 2.4L engine made easier.
I didn’t initially intend for this to be educational or I would have taken more pictures.
So, I am playing on the Renegade again… still.
On my tool cart, I have a Machete, for whatever reason, I have a Machete on my tool cart…
…And now for the rest of the story.
I am removing the oil pan from my Tigershark 2.4L engine (the reason will be divulged in a later post), and that oil pan is well glued in place.
For ease, I jacked up the Jeep and removed the right front tire and inner fender liner. Now I have easier access to the front of the engine (the pulley side of the engine).
I started on the right front corner of the engine, using a putty knife and a hammer, I gently worked the putty knife between the oil pan and the engine block, and continued my way under the pulley, only pushing the putty knife far in enough to cut through the silicone holding the oil pan in place.
With the half-shaft in the way along the back of the vehicle, A/C, oil cooler, oil filter and exhaust in the way on the front of the vehicle, and the transaxle in the way in the back of the engine, I was struggling to find a way to remove the oil pan without destroying it.
I have read where folks are buying new oil pans because the oil pan can’t be removed without ruining them.
Here comes the Machete. Take the Machete and work it from the front of the engine between the oil pan and the engine block and work it towards the transaxle, as far as it will reach (I have a long machete), and then do it for the opposite side and work it towards the transaxle. After you have cut through the silicone on the front and the two sides, you can pull down on the oil pan and remove it from the engine with very little effort.
The damage was very minimal, and I used a hammer and a dolly to true up the oil pans mating surface.
Clean off any adhesive that is remaining on the oil pan and the engine.
The oil pan is glues back into place with an Engine Sealant (RTV) and the bolts torqued to 9 to 14 ft-lb (1/4” ratchet with a 6” extensionon a short socket being tightened with on hand (weg)).
This worked so well for me that I had to share.
Do you know what else surprised me??? You can't see the crankshaft.
There is a balance shaft assembly in the way (I have never seen a balance shaft assembly like this one before).
Thought I'd share...
Going fast is only half the fun... You get to build it first.
Last edited by IDoMy0wnRacing; 08-22-2019 at 05:02 AM.