Oil Consumption - Page 12 - Jeep Renegade Forum
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post #111 of 120 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 08:56 PM
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i used mobil 1 the first time it was sold, up until i bought the jeep and they push Pennzoil. when mobil 1 first came out they would guarantee your engine if it failed due to the oil. needed that coverage, they did not specify you could not claim damage if the car was raced. NEVER had oil failure. i think any quality 0-20 synthetic oil will work
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post #112 of 120 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 12:58 PM
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I had an oil consumption test done last December. It showed I was using excessive oil. I have a 2017 with the 2.4 Multi-Air.

They said they were sending the problem to "engineering".

After not hearing back for a long time, I stopped in last week. They are ordering a new engine for me. The rep said that since March, the dealer can make that new engine determination without going up the line.

There's a back order on the engines. I don't know what makes one engine use more oil than another. Sloppy tolerances?
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post #113 of 120 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 01:45 PM
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I had an oil consumption test done last December. It showed I was using excessive oil. I have a 2017 with the 2.4 Multi-Air.

They said they were sending the problem to "engineering".

After not hearing back for a long time, I stopped in last week. They are ordering a new engine for me. The rep said that since March, the dealer can make that new engine determination without going up the line.

There's a back order on the engines. I don't know what makes one engine use more oil than another. Sloppy tolerances?
Mine is being replaced on the 13th. They did not indicate that there was any back ordered. I completed the consumption test a week and a half ago. My only concern is that they are only replacing the short block (main block with pistons and crank) but I read on another thread they the valve guides should be looked at as well. I am going to bring this up to the dealership.
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post #114 of 120 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 01:06 PM
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0-20 oil is not going to sit in the upper engine when shut off. it is hot and will drop into the oil pan quite quickly. there is no reason for oil to sit in the heads when shut off, unless you are using non synthetic oil that can foul drains when not changed properly--of course this problem could take a few years to happen
i am sorry i raced fords for thirty years, as far as checking oil 5-10 min. after shut down is BS. cold morning checks will give proper readings, giving the engine oil time to drain into the pan

HAS anyone asked WHY they are replacing the short block??.basically a short block is crank shaft bearings and pistons/rings and "new" block. so that is telling me that they must be updating the pistons and rings (that is where the oil will burn if the rings do not wipe the cylinders properly)
i did a compression on the cylinders and all were within specs when i was burning oil
i went to high mileage pennzoil which is supposed to recondition valve guides just checked oil and it sits right on the "full" mark. that is 1000 with no lose. looks like my problem was the seals around the valve stems
good luck with your "new" short block. there can be so many problems when the engine block is replaced, air leaks, vacuum leaks, trans leak, if they drop the trans. to pull the old block
just hope you get a good mechanic working on your ride
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post #115 of 120 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 11:56 PM
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Originally Posted by jeff1 View Post
0-20 oil is not going to sit in the upper engine when shut off. it is hot and will drop into the oil pan quite quickly. there is no reason for oil to sit in the heads when shut off, unless you are using non synthetic oil that can foul drains when not changed properly--of course this problem could take a few years to happen
i am sorry i raced fords for thirty years, as far as checking oil 5-10 min. after shut down is BS. cold morning checks will give proper readings, giving the engine oil time to drain into the pan

HAS anyone asked WHY they are replacing the short block??.basically a short block is crank shaft bearings and pistons/rings and "new" block. so that is telling me that they must be updating the pistons and rings (that is where the oil will burn if the rings do not wipe the cylinders properly)
i did a compression on the cylinders and all were within specs when i was burning oil
i went to high mileage pennzoil which is supposed to recondition valve guides just checked oil and it sits right on the "full" mark. that is 1000 with no lose. looks like my problem was the seals around the valve stems
good luck with your "new" short block. there can be so many problems when the engine block is replaced, air leaks, vacuum leaks, trans leak, if they drop the trans. to pull the old block
just hope you get a good mechanic working on your ride
Give us a 5,000 mile update. I would love to know if the problem is minimized by then.
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post #116 of 120 (permalink) Old 05-11-2019, 04:06 PM
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will try to remember, one year from now, i am an old fart and may not be alive in 5000 miles
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post #117 of 120 (permalink) Old 05-12-2019, 01:03 AM
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i raced fords for 30 years, did all my own work, and i have never heard so much BS on this oil problem, flimsy piston rings, oil absorbing engine blocks, bad valve guides. damn jeeps have to be "burning" oil, BUT i hear of no "cat" problems or exhaust smoke. i think 0-20 oil is way to thin for these engines and burns off to cleanly. has anyone tried a 10-30 blend, dumb question because that would have been mentioned on this site by now if it made a difference
I run 5-20 with Lucas oil additive and I get 5 thousand miles before lost. But run the Lucas high mileage non oil additive. It works with synthetic and non synthetic oils
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post #118 of 120 (permalink) Old 05-12-2019, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by jeff1 View Post
0-20 oil is not going to sit in the upper engine when shut off. it is hot and will drop into the oil pan quite quickly. there is no reason for oil to sit in the heads when shut off, unless you are using non synthetic oil that can foul drains when not changed properly--of course this problem could take a few years to happen
i am sorry i raced fords for thirty years, as far as checking oil 5-10 min. after shut down is BS. cold morning checks will give proper readings, giving the engine oil time to drain into the pan.
Ah, someone with old school thinking like me !!

Since we are both sitting on the front porch in our rockers yelling at kids to get off our lawns, let me tell you what I did...

When I first got my Jeep and went out in the morning to check my oil, I noticed it was low. I did the "ya GOT to be kidding me !!". Then I did what the manual said. Drove it around the block a few times to warm it up, went home, waited 5 minutes, checked again. Right on the full mark.

Defies logic and no one from Jeep or Fiat has ever given a really good reason. Forum members have offered theories and hypothesis, but no hard facts from those that designed this freaky engine.

I still plan to scribe a line on the back of the dipstick for "cold" reading; like automatic tranny's used to have. Yep, Jeep (or Fiat) could've done that for us, but that falls under the topic of "logic" and modern automakers don't follow that anymore.
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post #119 of 120 (permalink) Old 05-12-2019, 08:41 PM
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i wonder if the oil pan has a splash plate installed and oil sits on the plate. BUT there is no way a quart of oil can sit on top unless it is cupped some how
i had the same problem with a missing quart of oil and then showing up the next day. it cannot happen, but here is two vehicles that it happened to. i wish my miller lite cans would do the same lol
i have a hard time believing the oil shrinks and expands when hot/cold to the tune of one quart

Last edited by jeff1; 05-12-2019 at 08:43 PM.
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post #120 of 120 (permalink) Old 05-23-2019, 10:55 AM
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I have an '18 Trailhawk with the 2.4. Just hit 10k so I was set for my second oil change. Going around a turn one night last week, I got the Low Oil Pressure notification that quickly went away once I straightened out. Upon checking the oil, the stick was barely reading anything. I was 3 quarts low.

I just got back from dropping it off at the dealer for an oil change and I mentioned the low oil and he told me "off the record" (of course) that the 2.4L Tigershark engine used in the Renegade and the Compass is made of a soft aluminum that is very porous. There isn't an oil leak and the engine isn't burning oil, rather the engine is 'absorbing' the oil. The oil consumption will trail off around 15k miles.

I'm not a mechanic, but I've also never reached for a soft aluminum sponge to clean up any spills around the house. So this is either insight, or comedic relief. I'll be keeping an eye on my levels from now on.
It looks like all trailhawks are bad, mine is an '18 and my dealership just told me they are going to change the engine because of the oil consumption... not cool.
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