Premium Audio - Specs and Info (Rev: May-2019) - Jeep Renegade Forum
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post #1 of 2 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 10:46 PM Thread Starter
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Premium Audio - Specs and Info (Rev: May-2019)

Jeep Renegade - Premium Audio - Specs and Info

(Revision: 13-May-2019) Replaces Forum Threads: “Sticky: Factory Amplifier - Wiring and Specs“
and ”Factory Amplifier - Sound Signal from HU”

Note: The observations below are based on a 2016 Jeep Renegade, Trailhawk, USA, Beats Premium Audio w/Navigation

Wire Harness Connector Data (@ Amplifier)

White Plug from Amplifier into Speakers - Wiring Connector Pin Positions:
1) Black, (-), Ground
2) EMPTY
3) EMPTY
4) EMPTY
5) EMPTY
6) Yellow, (+), LH Front Corner Dash
7) Yellow/Black, (-), LH Front Corner Dash
8) Violet/Black, (-), RH Front Corner Dash
9) Violet/Orange, (+), RH Front Corner Dash
10) Violet/Orange, (+), RH Front Door
11) Violet/Black, (-), RH Front Door
12) Red, (+), 12V Power
13) White/Black, (-), Sub Voice Coil 1
14) White/Green, (+), Sub Voice Coil 1
15) Brown/Green, (+), Sub Voice Coil 2
16) Blue/Red, (-), Sub Voice Coil 2
17) Orange/Black, (-), LH Rear Door*
18) Orange, (+), LH Rear Door*
19) Green, (+), RH Rear Door*
20) Green/Black, (-), RH Rear Door*
21) Yellow/Black, (-), LH Front Door
22) Yellow, (+), LH Front Door

*Upper tweeters and lower door speakers are wired as a single unit

Gray Plug from Head Unit into Amplifier - Wiring Connector Pin Positions:
1) EMPTY
2) EMPTY
3) Violet - Dummy Wire, Does not carry signal nor current
4) Yellow/Blue - Dummy Wire, Does not carry signal nor current
5) Green/Black, (-), RH, Full-Range Master Sound Signal
6) Orange/Blue, (-), LH, Full-Range Master Sound Signal
7) EMPTY
8) White, (-), Data CAN BUS
9) EMPTY
10) EMPTY
11) EMPTY
12) EMPTY
13) EMPTY
14) Violet/Black - Dummy Wire, Does not carry signal nor current
15) Yellow/Black - Dummy Wire, Does not carry signal nor current
16) Green/Red, (+), RH, Full-Range Master Sound Signal
17) Orange/White, (+), LH, Full-Range Master Sound Signal
18) EMPTY
19) Blue, (+), Data CAN BUS
20) EMPTY
21) EMPTY
22) EMPTY


Speaker Data

Front Corner Dash Speaker:
Resistance: 4 Ohms
Frequency Range: Mid and High
Volt and Watt at Max Vol/Mid Eqlzr**: 7.86V, 15.44W
Volt and Watt at Max Vol/Max Eqlzr**: 11.70V, 46.8W

Front Door Speaker:
Resistance: 2 Ohms
Frequency Range: Low
Volt and Watt at Max Vol/Mid Eqlzr**: 10.10V, 51.01W
Volt and Watt at Max Vol/Max Eqlzr**: 11.65V, 67.86W

Rear Door Speaker:
Resistance: 2 Ohms (upper tweeters and lower door speakers are wired as a single unit)
Frequency Range: Upper Tweeter - High, Lower Door Speaker - Mid
Volt and Watt at Max Vol/Mid Eqlzr**: 8.60V, 36.98W
Volt and Watt at Max Vol/Max Eqlzr**: 11.67V, 68.09W

Rear Subwoofer Voice Coil 1:
Resistance: 2 Ohms
Frequency Range: Low
Volt and Watt at Max Vol/Mid Eqlzr**: 11.66V, 67.98W
Volt and Watt at Max Vol/Max Eqlzr**: 11.52V, 66.36W

Rear Subwoofer Voice Coil 2:
Resistance: 2 Ohms
Frequency Range: Low
Volt and Watt at Max Vol/Mid Eqlzr**: 11.66V, 67.98W
Volt and Watt at Max Vol/Max Eqlzr**: 11.52V, 66.36W

Total Maximum Combined Measured System Output: 498.22W

**Testing Conditions
1) 2016 Jeep Renegade, Trailhawk, USA, Beats Premium Audio with Navigation
2) Factory/OEM Head Unit is used
3) Measured 14.4V power from battery - Renegade’s engine was running in idle when test was conducted
4) 7th Gen iPod Nano was connected to the USB port located inside the middle armrest console
5) Hz test tones were played by the iPod at full iPod volume with middle/standard/normal iPod equalizer
6) Max Volume (Max Vol) = Volume set to level “38” on Head Unit
7) Middle Equalizer (Mid Eqlzr) = In HU Audio Equalizer Settings - All Treble, Mid, and Bass levels are in the middle
8) Max Equalizer (Max Eqlzr) = In HU Audio Equalizer Settings - All Treble, Mid, and Bass levels are turned all the way up
9) Front Dash Speaker Channel - 1K Hz Test Tone, 4.1 Ohm Dummy Load Resistor
10) Front Door Speaker Channel - 50 Hz Test Tone, 1.9 Ohm Dummy Load Resistor
11) Rear Door Upper and Lower Speaker Channel (as single unit) - 1K Hz Test Tone, 1.9 Ohm Dummy Load Resistor
12) Subwoofer Channel Voice Coil 1 - 50 Hz Test Tone, 1.9 Ohm Dummy Load Resistor
13) Subwoofer Channel Voice Coil 2 - 50 Hz Test Tone, 1.9 Ohm Dummy Load Resistor

Noteworthy Observations
1) The Data CAN BUS wires transmit all EQ and volume adjustment information from the HU to the Amp. The Amp then uses the data to raise and lower the volume to the speakers.
2) The four wires from the HU to the Amp that are identified by numerous internet sources as the Front LH and Front RH are actually dummy wires. They measure at [email protected] Hz. In fact, I de-pinned all four wires from the harness with absolutely no change in sound quality. All front and rear speakers functioned as normal.
3) The four wires from the HU to the Amp that are identified by numerous internet sources as the Rear LH and Rear RH actually carry a full-range signal for the left and right side channels, respectively. Here is the kicker: REGARDLESS of volume on the head unit, these wires ALWAYS measure at [email protected] Hz. They are always sending constant voltage to the amp.
4) If either of the Data CAN Bus wires from HU to Amp are disconnected, then the HU will render the complete audio system inoperable.
5) If the Amplifier does not sense a resistance load from one-or-more of the speaker channels, a lighted icon will display on your instrumentation panel to the right of the speedometer. It is very annoying. However, it is purely a visual indicator. It will not render anything inoperable.
6) If keeping the stock HU, then any aftermarket amplifier additions must tap into the high speaker level outputs, post-factory amplifier (@ the harness with the white plug from the amp to the speakers). If you were to hook up an aftermarket sub/amp from the "rear" wires from the HU, then your amp/speakers would be at the same volume at ALL times because the rear wires are sending a constant 3.5V...no matter how far up or down that you turn the volume knob on the HU.
7) The factory subwoofer is hot garbage.
8) The factory system’s internal EQ will throttle each individual speaker channel to a max output of approximately 11.65V per channel.
9) The front corner dash speaker voice volume seems to overpower the voice volume of the rear door speaker. It is grossly unbalanced.
10) At identical HU volume, the USB/Aux input seem to produce slightly quieter music went compared to the radio. In other words: If you listen to a song on the radio, then immediately listen to the same song from your iPod, you will notice that the song from the iPod sounds slightly quieter.


My Sample Aftermarket Amplifier Configuration

Select Materials from My Configuration:
Free Test Tones! - Click Here for Link
4-channel Amplifiers (x2) - Click Here for Link
4-channel LOC w/remote turn-on and can withstand up to 80W per channel (x2) - Click Here for Link
Multimeter (1x)
2 Ohm, 100W aluminum resistor (x1)
4 Ohm, 100W aluminum resistor (x1)
47 Ohm, 50W aluminum resistor (x8)
Power Distribution Block (x2)
Posi-Tap and Posi-Lock Connectors – Click Here for Link
White Connector Plug and Socket – Click Here for Link…you will have to buy a quantity of 2 of these in order to get enough wires. You will also have to de-pin and re-pin the plug and also the socket to create the correct pin configuration of the Jeep Renegade factory Amplifier.

Key Notes Regarding My Installation:
1) I used a quantity of eight, 47 Ohm, 50W resistors to induce a dummy load on the amplifier. This tricked the HU into thinking that the speakers were still connected to the factory Amp. You can skip this without functional repercussions. However, a lighted icon will display on your instrumentation panel to the right of the speedometer at all times.
2) I cut a hole in my inner cargo trim quarter panel for easy access to the factory amp and its wire harness plugs.
3) I created my own custom wire harness and extension harness. It was super expensive and time consuming. I recommend going the route of just one long harness with just the white plug and also the white socket at the end.
4) To correct the front/back voice imbalance issues, provided below are the settings that I used to tune my aftermarket amplifiers:
a. Factory HU volume at level “8” and all Treble, Mid, and Bass levels are in the middle of the EQ
b. Front Dash Speaker Channel @ Amkt Amp - 0.148V Output @ 1K Hz Test Tone, 4.1 Ohm Dummy Load Resistor
c. Front Door Speaker Channel @ Amkt Amp - 0.879V Output @ 50 Hz Test Tone, 1.9 Ohm Dummy Load Resistor
d. Rear Door Upper and Lower @ Amkt Amp - 0.495V Output @ Speaker Channel (as single unit) - 1K Hz Test Tone, 1.9 Ohm Dummy Load Resistor
e. Subwoofer Channel Voice Coil 1 @ Amkt Amp - 1.788V Output @ 50 Hz Test Tone, 1.9 Ohm Dummy Load Resistor
f. Subwoofer Channel Voice Coil 2 @ Amkt Amp - 50 Hz Test Tone, 1.9 Ohm Dummy Load Resistor
5) My configuration had variable alternator hum noise. Therefore, I had to splice the brown reference-ground wires from the two LOCs into the Amp ground wire that is located at pin position 1 on the white plug. This eliminated the noise.
6) Although I know the greatest amount of voltage that the factory Amp will supply to the speakers, I do not know what is the max speaker rating. In other words, I do not know the wattage at which any of the speakers will blow.

Disclaimer
I am not a certified technician. These are observations are for entertainment purposes, only. They may not be correct. Enjoy at your own risk.
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post #2 of 2 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 11:04 PM Thread Starter
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@Admin - Please keep this thread. Thanks!!
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