Brake Wiring Help - Page 2 - Jeep Renegade Forum
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post #11 of 29 (permalink) Old 02-29-2016, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Mkalkofen View Post
Why would I need to use a relay? The brake controller is powered and just needs the signal from the car to know when the brakes are active. Thanks.
With incandescent brake lights my concern would be the brake light switch getting fried over time if you power extra bulbs through it. Hence my suggestion to use a relay.
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post #12 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-16-2016, 12:56 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by lamont View Post
With incandescent brake lights my concern would be the brake light switch getting fried over time if you power extra bulbs through it. Hence my suggestion to use a relay.
Thanks. From what I read, the third brake light on the Renegade is an LED. Would this change your thinking? Also, I won't be powering an additional light. I just need an on/off signal to send to the brake controller so it knows when to send it's signal to the trailer.
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post #13 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-16-2016, 12:59 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Ytbdej View Post
Mkalkofen,
what did you end up doing here? I have the same problem, just can't find anywhere to connect into the brake signal.
I haven't finished it yet. I finally have some time this weekend and the weather is supposed to be nice. I found a wiring diagram that makes it look like there may be a potential wire from the rear fuse block, but I'm not getting my hopes up. I will likely be taking the lift gate apart and accessing the third brake light. I'll let you know how it goes!
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post #14 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-17-2016, 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Mkalkofen View Post
I haven't finished it yet. I finally have some time this weekend and the weather is supposed to be nice. I found a wiring diagram that makes it look like there may be a potential wire from the rear fuse block, but I'm not getting my hopes up. I will likely be taking the lift gate apart and accessing the third brake light. I'll let you know how it goes!

I had my rear door panel off trying to get to the third brake light. Dealer looked in their book and said it was easy just one nut hold the third light fixture in. Not what I found. There are four nuts and a bolt that hold the brow the third light is in. With them out I pried and pulled until I thought something might break. Still didn't get to the third light.


Tech at dealer told me they can't get much info on these rigs yet. As a last resort they refer to Fiat 500X info. Same car just a different skin.
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post #15 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-18-2016, 02:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Mkalkofen View Post
Thanks. From what I read, the third brake light on the Renegade is an LED. Would this change your thinking? Also, I won't be powering an additional light. I just need an on/off signal to send to the brake controller so it knows when to send it's signal to the trailer.
In that case you should be fine without a relay.
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post #16 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-18-2016, 06:01 AM
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Honestly the Renegade is rated to haul anything heavy enough for the need of trailer brakes.I think once you have this working and try towing something heavy you are going to end up with tranny problems.
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post #17 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-21-2016, 12:52 AM Thread Starter
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Trailer Brake Controller Wiring....DONE!!!

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Originally Posted by a5150nut View Post
I had my rear door panel off trying to get to the third brake light. Dealer looked in their book and said it was easy just one nut hold the third light fixture in. Not what I found. There are four nuts and a bolt that hold the brow the third light is in. With them out I pried and pulled until I thought something might break. Still didn't get to the third light.


Tech at dealer told me they can't get much info on these rigs yet. As a last resort they refer to Fiat 500X info. Same car just a different skin.
Ok. I finally did it!

Like you, I tried to get to the actual light in the brow, but couldn't figure out how to get it off. With all the panels off the liftgate, I looked at the wires and thought about where they were going. The harness on the left goes up to the brow over the liftgate glass and the one on the right goes to the wiper, camera, plate lights, etc. I unwrapped some of the wires on the left to see what I was looking at and found that is has the water hose for the wiper and two wires. I figured these had to be the wires to the light, so I cut back a little shielding on one of them. Bingo! It was the power to the light; on with the brakes, off otherwise!

I stripped a little shielding off the wire (the lighter one), routed a wire between the panels and headliner, then up through the rubber boot, and soldered it to the wire. I wrapped it up with electrical tape and put it all back together.

I took the trailer out for a little test and everything worked great. Power and handling were fine, the brakes activated as they should. My hitch is too low. I'll likely upgrade to the bumper hitch, but it will work for this summer. I'll give some more detailed tow reviews when I take it out for a weekend.
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post #18 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-21-2016, 10:30 PM
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You said lighter of the two. That looks to be light blue to me.


Thanks for the info.
I'm going to see if I can find it behind the speaker covers.
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post #19 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-24-2016, 04:45 PM
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Brake controller wiring..

Do any of you have any easy way of getting brake controller wiring from the engine compartment to the cab.. I finally figured out how to get wiring from the back of the rig to the engine compartment but getting it into the cab looks like it will not be fun as there does not seem to be any access holes through the firewall and it looks like the airbag is going to be an issue........ Any suggestions....
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post #20 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-25-2016, 12:55 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arizona3313 View Post
Do any of you have any easy way of getting brake controller wiring from the engine compartment to the cab.. I finally figured out how to get wiring from the back of the rig to the engine compartment but getting it into the cab looks like it will not be fun as there does not seem to be any access holes through the firewall and it looks like the airbag is going to be an issue........ Any suggestions....
I just went through all of this. It's not that bad. There is a rubber boot through the drywall that you can push a few wires through. You have to remove the cowl plastic and stuff to access it, but it's not bad. You can route through a lot of the factory channels and keep it really clean. I can try to take some pictures later if you'd like.

Just curious, but what did you do to bring the brake signal from the back? I tapped into the third brake light wire.
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