Tutorial: Subwoofer Removal & Installation - Jeep Renegade Forum
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-18-2017, 11:08 PM Thread Starter
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Tutorial: Subwoofer Removal & Installation

I have seen a few threads regarding the removal and installation of the subwoofer in the 9 speaker system, so I thought it would be best to compile the information and knowledge gained from those threads into one, including my experience with the removal and installation (including photos).


Introduction:
The 9 speaker system in the Jeep Renegade includes a 6 3/4" dual voice coil subwoofer in the rear cargo area on the passenger side. The Crutchfield Master Sheet recommends removing the entire back right panel, which is not necessary. For those not willing to remove the entire back panel, the sub can be accessed by removing the mesh grill cover, however, a small modification may need to be made (will be explained in detail later).


Replacement Options:
As for choosing a replacement sub, many have been successful with the Kicker 40CWRT672 sub. Although this is discontinued, you may be able to find a few leftovers out there. I ended up purchasing the new model, the Kicker CompRT 43CWRT672, and it works great. I have not heard of anyone using a different brand or size of sub with the stock enclosure/box at the time of this writing. Both Kicker sub options work with the factory amp, however, some information I gathered from a Crutchfield rep may be informative to some:

"The good news about the subwoofer is it will fit but the bad news is that you'll need to add an amp if you want it to last. There is no way around this as the factory amplifier can only produce so much power. It works fine with the efficient paper factory subwoofer but all aftermarket subwoofers require more power than what a factory system can output"

"The subwoofer is more of an issue for longevity. While you'll get sound out of the new subwoofer you may not get even a year of use out of it if you use the factory amp. It will greatly underpower the new subwoofer so eventually the voice-coils will heat up and solder themselves together."


This was gathered from one of the four Crutchfield reps that I talked to regarding my purchase or installation questions. The rest did not comment on or question my purchase. Some on this forum have had their Kicker sub for over a year without any issues, so I decided to disregard this information. However, I purchased the sub with a 3-year warranty from Square Trade, just in case this issue does occur.


Tools Needed:
Drill
1/4" or 5/16" Drill Bit
Wire Stripper
Phillips-Head Screwdriver OR Philips Bit w/ Drill Bit Holder (no larger than 1/4")
Trim Panel Tool (recommended)



Installation:
1. Using your Trim Panel Tool (or similar tool), pry and carefully remove the mesh grill cover to expose the subwoofer. I found it is easiest to pry from the smaller end (pointed out in the photo below), pulling gently and slowly around the rest of the grill after getting a piece of it. The grill should come off fairly easy. (Ignore the hole in the panel, we will get to that later).



2. Loosen and remove the screws (4) located around the sub using your screwdriver or drill. You will be able to access three easily. The fourth screw is up underneath the panel, which many could not access easily. Someone was able to remove this screw using a very small right-angled screwdriver, however, I was unsuccessful since there is hardly any space between the sub and the panel. Keep in mind, the Kicker sub sticks out much further than the stock sub, so you may find it easier in the long run to drill a hole in the panel and access it that way. Before drilling the hole, align a ruler across the bottom of the rear cargo light, with the 6.5" mark right on the bottom left corner of the light. Just above the 0" mark on your ruler is where you will want to drill the hole. To double check the position of the hole, you can use your finger to feel for the screw, then tap on the panel on the other side, or use a smaller drill bit at first. After you are certain where the screw is located, use a 1/4" or 5/16" drill bit to drill the final hole. You'll want to make sure your screwdriver/drill bit holder is able to fit through this hole. Don't worry, you can use the Beats logo to cover this later, as it is just stuck on with adhesive.



3. After the screws are removed you can pull the subwoofer out. You will have to pull on the upper panel in order to remove it. I was concerned about breaking it at first, but it is pretty durable. You will really test its limits when you have to put the new sub in, but we'll get to that later.



4. Once the subwoofer is out, take note of how the wires are connected. This will be useful when you install the new sub. Using a wire stripper or wire cutter, cut the wires from stock sub. You can use the photo below for reference on where to cut them at. I wanted to have as much extra wire as possible.



5. Strip and twist the wires. I stripped them about 1/4" of an inch at 14 AWG, then twisted them, ensuring there were no frays.


6. Connect the wires to the new sub. Here's a helpful note on the connections:
The Orange wire will be your Coil 1 +
The Yellow wire will be your Coil 1 -
The Green wire will be your Coil 2 +
The Black wire will be the Coil 2 -

Make sure to test the subwoofer before moving on, as putting it in is somewhat of a pain.

7. After the wires are secure, feed the extra slack through the enclosure/box, and put the new subwoofer in. Just like how you removed the stock subwoofer, pull on the upper opening of the panel and tilt the speaker to put the top in first. You'll find getting the bottom in is a pain, but you'll eventually get it after struggling with it enough. Don't be afraid to use some strength when pulling on the panel. After it is in, ensure no wires are still sticking out. I had to do this process all over again after noticing some wire wasn't tucked back in all the way, and there is literally no room to pull out the sub to tuck it back in. It is a tight fit.


8. Once the new sub is in, tighten all of the screws and make sure they are snug. I would be especially careful of the screw behind the panel. Someone else mentioned they stripped it and ended up having to use a bigger screw. I stripped it as well, but decided to leave it as the rest of the screws were pretty tight. At this point it might be a good idea to test the sub at high volumes to ensure that nothing is rattling and everything is secure.


9. Turn up the volume and place the grill in position, but do not put it back on all the way. Make sure none of the clips are too close or hitting the subwoofer while it is playing. I noticed the Kicker subwoofer I used was hitting one of the top clips and causing a loud rattling sound, so I cut it off with some scissors.


10. If you chose to drill a hole in the panel to access the hidden screw, you can cover the hole with the Beats logo. You can simply just pull it off. I decided to use the Trim Panel Tool to get most of the adhesive off with it.


Conclusion
I would highly recommend this upgrade along with replacing the dash speakers. Those two upgrades alone provide a significant improvement in sound quality. For those who like a lot of bass, you may feel that the subwoofer upgrade is a little underwhelming, but overall I am very satisfied with it. I did this with no previous car audio experience. I hope this is useful for some of you.




























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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-29-2018, 04:46 PM
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@tburns517,

Just installed the same Kicker, but newer version (43cwrt672). Followed this guide and everything worked perfectly. Cannot thank you enough!
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-09-2018, 12:50 PM
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This is the easiest and most bad ass solve!! I did it on my 2015 renegade. Thank you for the beautifully simple and well laid out instructions. I’m a chick, a handy chick, but nonetheless, this is a 10x better solve than buying the factory crap speaker + box and having someone remove the entire panel. Better speaker, 1/5 the cost and a great little project!!!
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-09-2018, 12:50 PM
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Thank you!
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 04:39 PM
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I just completed this work on my Renegade, the tutorial is great... I tried taking off the panel - unsuccessfully because it seemed too tight to squeeze the kicker in - I squeezed harder


The only issue i have is that the kicker is quieter than the stock subwoofer, I thought it might be an impedance thing, but everything i read says the stock ones are 2ohms too. Not sure there is gonig to be a fix for this!


On a side note, when I put the panel back on, it does vibrate a bit, so I added a couple of strips of foam tape.


Thanks Tburns! Your post made me less afraid of this... next upgrade HEADLIGHTS!
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-22-2019, 10:17 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Junglegade View Post
I just completed this work on my Renegade, the tutorial is great... I tried taking off the panel - unsuccessfully because it seemed too tight to squeeze the kicker in - I squeezed harder

The only issue i have is that the kicker is quieter than the stock subwoofer, I thought it might be an impedance thing, but everything i read says the stock ones are 2ohms too. Not sure there is gonig to be a fix for this!

On a side note, when I put the panel back on, it does vibrate a bit, so I added a couple of strips of foam tape.

Thanks Tburns! Your post made me less afraid of this... next upgrade HEADLIGHTS!

Glad my tutorial was able to help you! I've noticed that the aftermarket speakers are a little quieter than all of the stock ones, regardless of matching the impedance. I believe it has something to do with the way the stock system was EQ'd to make the horrible stock speakers sound decent. I'll say that I never really knew how the stock subwoofer sounded because mine was blown from the time I got my Renegade.

If you have the extra cash, the Maestro AR or the Rockford Fosgate DSR1 allow you to replace the amp, and EQ your own system. This would require you to have all aftermarket speakers, a new amp, and the amp replacement unit of your choice. I'm not sure if it's really worth it, but I've always been interested in doing it.

As for the headlights (if you don't mind the suggestion), I replaced my headlights and fog lights with BEAMTECH fanless LEDs off of Amazon. They are about $30-$40 per pair, completely silent (which was important to me), and they provide a lot of light without blinding oncoming traffic. Not to mention, they are completely plug-n-play, no extra wiring/harness/adapter needed. I know a lot of people recommend Auxbeam if you're looking for LEDs with fans.


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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-24-2019, 01:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tburns517 View Post
As for the headlights (if you don't mind the suggestion), I replaced my headlights and fog lights with BEAMTECH fanless LEDs off of Amazon. They are about $30-$40 per pair, completely silent (which was important to me), and they provide a lot of light without blinding oncoming traffic. Not to mention, they are completely plug-n-play, no extra wiring/harness/adapter needed. I know a lot of people recommend Auxbeam if you're looking for LEDs with fans.

Actually I've been looking at the JW Speaker 8700 headlight units recently, the only thing stopping me is cost, then I saw the OPT7 Outlaw X mentioned in a post here and boy do those look sweet, and less money! Wonder how long each of them last...
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