Factory Amplifier - Wiring and Specs - Jeep Renegade Forum
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-23-2018, 10:46 PM Thread Starter
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Factory Amplifier - Wiring and Specs

I have a 2016 Jeep Renegade Trailhawk with Beats audio. I think we all know that the sound is a little lacking. Therefore, I decided to figure out what is the root of this "506" watts of power that is touted in the dealership brochure. Armed with my tools, a multimeter, 1k and 50Hz test tracks, calipers, and some so-so information I found on the internet, I embarked on my mission to find out what make this audio system tick.

I tore the left rear panel apart to get to the amplifier. I spent the next 5 hours purely taking measurements of ohms and amperage. Below are my truncated findings at the white connector plug:

Wiring Pin Positions:
1) Black, Ground, 14 AWG/2.5mm
2) EMPTY
3) EMPTY
4) EMPTY
5) EMPTY
6) Yellow, (+), LH Front Corner Dash, 18 AWG/0.75mm
7) Yellow/Black, (-), LH Front Corner Dask, 18 AWG/0.75mm
8) Violet/Black, (-), RH Front Corner Dash, 18 AWG/0.75mm
9) Violet/Orange, (+), RH Front Corner Dask, 18 AWG/0.75mm
10) Violet/Orange, (+), RH Front Door, 18 AWG/0.75mm
11) Violet/Black, (-), RH Front Door, 18 AWG/0.75mm
12) Red, +12V Power, 14 AWG/2.5mm
13) White/Black, (-), Sub Coil 1, 18 AWG/0.75mm
14) White/Green, (+), Sub Coil 1, 18 AWG/0.75mm
15) Brown/Green, (+), Sub Coil 2, 18 AWG/0.75mm
16) Blue/Red, (-), Sub Coil 2, 18 AWG/0.75mm
17) Orange/Black, (-), LH Rear Door, 18 AWG/0.75mm
18) Orange, (+), LH Rear Door, 18 AWG/0.75mm
19) Green, (+), RH Rear Door, 18 AWG/0.75mm
20) Green/Black, (-), RH Rear Door, 18 AWG/0.75mm
21) Yellow/Black, (-), LH Front Door, 18 AWG/0.75mm
22) Yellow, (+), LH Front Door, 18 AWG/0.75mm

Power Being Pushed By Amplifier (maybe not perfect, but it's in the ballpark):
Front Corner Dash Speakers: 4 Ohms, 5.5W RMS each
Front Door Speakers: 2 Ohm, 46W RMS each
Rear Door Speakers (with main speaker and tweeter wired in parallel): 2 Ohm, 10W RMS each
Subwoofer Coil 1: 2 Ohm, 65W RMS
Subwoofer Coil 2: 2 Ohm, 65W RMS

These are just my observations. I am not a certified technician. Just trying to be helpful. Use data at your own risk.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-25-2018, 04:55 AM
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You could try replacing the dash speakers with some half decent ones - I used Kickers - easy to fit, around 20 minutes, and they transformed the sound.
Definitely worth a try.

ooolo99ikl;i.,pyknulmmmmmmmmmm 111
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-25-2018, 09:59 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Ted! I appreciate your comment!


Right now, I have two, 4-channel Infinity Kappa4 amps lying around that I will be installing. I just need to bump up the overall volume of the factory system by about 15%. Hopefully, the stock dash and door speakers can handle it. If not, then I will invest in new speakers. For sure I will be replacing that hot-garbage of a stock subwoofer for a Kicker 6.75in, 2Ohm per coil, 75RMS per coil, 43CWRT672.

I will post the install of the amps in a month or so, but here is the written preview of the layout:
1) Steal the post-amp output from all eight channels (@ factory amp female socket connector) into two Metra AX-MLOC745 Line-Out Converters (LOC)
2) The LOCs will feed the signal to the two Kappa4 amps.
3) Feed the Kappa4 signal/power outputs to the speakers (@ factory wire harness male connector)


The fun factor of this install is that there will be no splicing or cutting into the factory wires. and be easily swappable back to the stock configuration if needed.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-25-2018, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by DarthLifter View Post
Thanks Ted! I appreciate your comment!


Right now, I have two, 4-channel Infinity Kappa4 amps lying around that I will be installing. I just need to bump up the overall volume of the factory system by about 15%. Hopefully, the stock dash and door speakers can handle it. If not, then I will invest in new speakers. For sure I will be replacing that hot-garbage of a stock subwoofer for a Kicker 6.75in, 2Ohm per coil, 75RMS per coil, 43CWRT672.

I will post the install of the amps in a month or so, but here is the written preview of the layout:
1) Steal the post-amp output from all eight channels (@ factory amp female socket connector) into two Metra AX-MLOC745 Line-Out Converters (LOC)
2) The LOCs will feed the signal to the two Kappa4 amps.
3) Feed the Kappa4 signal/power outputs to the speakers (@ factory wire harness male connector)


The fun factor of this install is that there will be no splicing or cutting into the factory wires. and be easily swappable back to the stock configuration if needed.
I replaced the sub with that same Kicker, as well as the dash speakers about 6 months ago. I was definitely more satisfied with the system after that, but I was wanting more. I very recently decided to replace the front 6x9 with some JBL 963s. Although they provide a cleaner sound, I found that I lost some bass and "punch" which the factory 6x9s had. They don't seem to be pushed to their full potential. I'm not sure whether to go back to the factory speakers, or if I have any other options.

I'm not car audio savvy by any means, but this thread is interesting to me. Is the amp to blame for the lack of power to some of the speakers? Can it be easily replaced to fix the problem? I'm curious before I return the JBL 963s...


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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-25-2018, 12:28 PM Thread Starter
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"Is the amp to blame for the lack of power to some of the speakers? Can it be easily replaced to fix the problem? I'm curious before I return the JBL 963s..." - tburns517

Great questions! Here is my opinion: I turned on the car (14.4V to amp). I measured the factory amplifier output @ 0dbs...i.e. balance/fade was centered and the bass/treble/mid crossovers were set at 0. Then, with the speakers disconnected, I cranked the head unit to max (Volume=38). I then measured the nominal output from the amp @ the amp socket connector for each speaker output. These were my truncated findings:

Power to Front Corner Dash Speakers: 4 Ohms, 5.5W RMS each.....Weak! Most aftermarket 3.5in speakers can handle up to 30-75W RMS
Power to Front Door Speakers: 2 Ohm, 46W RMS each.....Not Bad. This similar to what an aftermarket head unit would output
Power to Rear Door Speakers (with main speaker and tweeter wired in parallel): 2 Ohm, 10W RMS each.....Weak! Most 6x9in speakers can handle up to 75-150W RMS
Power to Subwoofer Coil 1: 2 Ohm, 65W RMS...Good. The Kicker 43CWRT672 can handle up to 75W RMS per coil
Power to Subwoofer Coil 2: 2 Ohm, 65W RMS...Good. The Kicker 43CWRT672 can handle up to 75W RMS per coil
------------->Bottom Line: Yes. IMO, the amplifier is the main issue.

Lets talk about the speakers themselves. I can only give you "qualitative" data. Note: If someone can prove me wrong, I would be grateful if you could post about it. The front door 6x9s are different than the rear door 6x9s. I believe that the front door speakers have a larger magnet, therefore a better bass response. Also, the front door speakers have a low pass crossover...I'm going to throw a guess out there and say 1Mz. The rear 6x9s have a band pass crossover that I am guessing is between 300<X<5K.

Can the amplifier be "easily" replaced. I'm going to say that this is out of the league for a person with little knowledge of audio system. I consider myself to a journeyman at car audio and it will take me numerous hours to complete this job.
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Last edited by DarthLifter; 07-25-2018 at 12:33 PM.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-25-2018, 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by DarthLifter View Post
------------->Bottom Line: Yes. IMO, the amplifier is the main issue.

Lets talk about the speakers themselves. I can only give you "qualitative" data. Note: If someone can prove me wrong, I would be grateful if you could post about it. The front door 6x9s are different than the rear door 6x9s. I believe that the front door speakers have a larger magnet, therefore a better bass response. Also, the front door speakers have a low pass crossover...I'm going to throw a guess out there and say 1Mz. The rear 6x9s have a band pass crossover that I am guessing is between 300<X<5K.

Can the amplifier be "easily" replaced. I'm going to say that this is out of the league for a person with little knowledge of audio system. I consider myself to a journeyman at car audio and it will take me numerous hours to complete this job.
I appreciate all of the time and effort spent collecting this data, as well as your honesty. It is disappointing to hear the amp is the main issue, but I'm going to take your word and leave the amp alone. I'm a musician, so it's hard for me to listen and not pick at every little detail.

In regards to your paragraph about the front and rear door differences, in your opinion, would it be worthwhile to replace the rear doors with the JBLs instead?

I'm highly considering a Kicker Hideaway under the seat to bring back the bass and feel of the music. Would you say that is a pretty easy installation in comparison to the amp?


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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-25-2018, 02:41 PM Thread Starter
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Q: "In regards to your paragraph about the front and rear door differences, in your opinion, would it be worthwhile to replace the rear doors with the JBLs instead?" - tburns517


A: In my opinion, you will more bang for your buck by putting the 6x9 JBLs in the REAR instead of the front. Here is why:


Factory amp power to 2 Ohm factory front door speaker: 46W RMS
Factory amp power to 3 Ohm JBL Club 3690 6x9 front door speaker: approx. 31W RMS
Front door low pass: 1kHz (guestimate) - you get a very low spectrum range


Factory amp power to 2 Ohm circuit (4 Ohm factory 6x9 main speaker paralleled with 4 Ohm factory tweeter) rear door: 10W RMS
Factory amp power to 1.71 Ohm circuit (3 Ohm JBL Club 3690 6x9 main speaker paralleled with 4 Ohm tweeter) rear door: approx. 11.7W RMS
Rear door band pass: 1<X<5kHz (guestimate) - you get a larger sound spectrum for your JBLs to do its business.


Q: "I'm highly considering a Kicker Hideaway under the seat to bring back the bass and feel of the music. Would you say that is a pretty easy installation in comparison to the amp?" - tburns517


A: If you are looking to just "add" an amp: Or in this case, an amp/sub combo....the installation gets easier. This time you can remove your head unit and tap into the four signal carrying rear speaker wires that come out of the 52-way connector. I ASSUME that these are speaker level outputs, So you will still need a 2-channel line-out converter (LOC) with an integrated power remote...but the wires are much easier to get to. Note: you will still need to feed the RCA cable and remote wire from the LOC to the location of your amp/sub, but those panels are much less of a hassle to deal with the agony of taking apart the rear driver side quarter panel. My two cents. lol


Also remember to calibrate the LOC and also the Gain on the amp/sub unit correctly. You don't want to make your equipment explode. :O
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-25-2018, 02:59 PM
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A: In my opinion, you will more bang for your buck by putting the 6x9 JBLs in the REAR instead of the front. Here is why:
Factory amp power to 2 Ohm factory front door speaker: 46W RMS
Factory amp power to 3 Ohm JBL Club 3690 6x9 front door speaker: approx. 31W RMS
Front door low pass: 1kHz (guestimate) - you get a very low spectrum range

Factory amp power to 2 Ohm circuit (4 Ohm factory 6x9 main speaker paralleled with 4 Ohm factory tweeter) rear door: 10W RMS
Factory amp power to 1.71 Ohm circuit (3 Ohm JBL Club 3690 6x9 main speaker paralleled with 4 Ohm tweeter) rear door: approx. 11.7W RMS
Rear door band pass: 1<X<5kHz (guestimate) - you get a larger sound spectrum for your JBLs to do its business.

Q: "I'm highly considering a Kicker Hideaway under the seat to bring back the bass and feel of the music. Would you say that is a pretty easy installation in comparison to the amp?" - tburns517

A:
If you are looking to just "add" an amp: Or in this case, an amp/sub combo....the installation gets easier. This time you can remove your head unit and tap into the four signal carrying rear speaker wires that come out of the 52-way connector. I ASSUME that these are speaker level outputs, So you will still need a 2-channel line-out converter (LOC) with an integrated power remote...but the wires are much easier to get to. Note: you will still need to feed the RCA cable and remote wire from the LOC to the location of your amp/sub, but those panels are much less of a hassle to deal with the agony of taking apart the rear driver side quarter panel. My two cents. lol

Also remember to calibrate the LOC and also the Gain on the amp/sub unit correctly. You don't want to make your equipment explode. :O
Sorry for the confusion, I just noticed I didn't properly specify which model I have. I have the JBL GX963s (discontinued on Crutchfield). Does that make a difference? I thought about buying another set to add in the rear doors too, but I may just go the other route and put them in rear, and put the factory speakers back in.

I apologize for hijacking your thread with questions, but I appreciate all of the info! I may just have to try installing a Kicker Hideaway. I enjoy messing around and adding things to the Renegade, as long as I know what I'm doing...somewhat.


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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-25-2018, 03:46 PM Thread Starter
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No problo. I like trying to help.


With the new information regarding your 2.3 Ohm JBL GX963 6x9, the following two calculations change from the calculation above:


Factory amp power to 2.3 Ohm JBL GX963 6x9 front door speaker: approx. 40W RMS
Factory amp power to 1.46 Ohm circuit (2.3 Ohm JBL GX963 6x9 main speaker paralleled with 4 Ohm tweeter) rear door circuit: approx. 13.69W RMS
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-06-2018, 11:10 AM
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If you want to ditch the OEM amp, then you will need a Digital Signal Processor (DSP) and your own amps.

I have the Rockford Fosgate DSR1 with the maestra connector for the Jeep Renegade. No cutting into the harness.

I am also building mine for SQ competition.

----------------------------
Thanks,
Stephen

2016 Renegade Trailhawk
2" ATP lift, 235/65/17 tires, GoPedal, Madness Autoworks Tune
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