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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello All,

New to the forum and figured I would sign up to voice my problems with my 15 Renegade. I was one of the first with a Renegade on the road before there were lots of known problems to read about. Luckily I am leasing the car and I get to give it back to Jeep with all the problems its had.

My car is 15 Renegade Lattitude 1.4L 6MT in silver. I currently have 11k miles. many of these problems have been happening since about 2-3k miles.

Here is a breakdown of my main issue with the engine. When its sitting at idle, there is this super loud tapping/ticking noise that intermittently comes on and off. It does it quite often, but of course the 2 times I have tried to take it to the dealership they cannot replicate it. I have taken a few videos to show to the service adviser and they sort of blew off the issue saying it could be the chain driven oil pump making that noise. I do not believe this is the issue at hand at all. I am going to attach a video link so everyone can hear what it is im referring to.

Video of problem - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8T2t0BgAho

Other issues Ive had with the car:

1 - 4WD light, cant tell me what caused this yet, it has come on three times so far (not fixed)
2 - radio light (had this problem 4 times so far and each time they have just reset/reflashed the radio. No features of the radio work when this light comes on.
3 - bluetooth would not work when the radio went out, assuming they are linked.
4 - when the radio went out, all of the steering wheel control buttons went out as well, even the ones that do not control the radio
5 - my driver side was leaking water at the top by the headliner (fixed)
6 - the driver side door was not aligned right and was having issues closing properly ( i think this may have been what caused my water leaking problem) (fixed)
7 - my horn completely went out (the low one, the high still works so the horn makes an awful high pitched beep now. Jeep is however correcting this issue for me) (pending fix)
8 - I have certain instances where the car acceleration will blip. It will stop for a split second then give me back the power. Almost like its not getting proper fuel or spark at all times. (not fixed)
9 - a rock caused my tire to split. Yes a small piece of gravel got stuck into the tread of the tire and split the tire causing a blowout. I know this is more so the tire manufacturer but regardless, its a problem i had and was shocked that a small 1/2" rock split a tire, on a jeep of all things.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Just wanted to post an update to all of my problems...

Jeep was finally able to fit my Horn issue. The low horn went out and left only the high pitched horn working. That has been taken care of.
I have not had the 4WD light come on since
The radio has been fine as well
Bluetooth is still intermittent. Sometimes it will connect to my phone, other times I have to turn off the vehicle, turn off the bluetooth and reset everything and it will finally come back
Acceleration has still been an issue. It will hesitate sometimes and finally give me power after a couple seconds.

New problems
I have heard a mechanical grinding noise during acceleration twice now. ( I am at about 13k miles)

Ongoing Problems
Jeep has still yet to figure out the loud tapping noise that makes the vehicle sound like its a diesel. Its a very loud ticking noise at idle. It doesnt happen all the time and of course every single time it does it, the dealer can never figure out what the **** is wrong with it. I think its turbo/engine related. I have even sent my numerous videos of the issue to the service adviser where they show the mechanic and they cant replicate the issue.
 

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Ongoing Problems
Jeep has still yet to figure out the loud tapping noise that makes the vehicle sound like its a diesel. Its a very loud ticking noise at idle. It doesnt happen all the time and of course every single time it does it, the dealer can never figure out what the **** is wrong with it. I think its turbo/engine related. I have even sent my numerous videos of the issue to the service adviser where they show the mechanic and they cant replicate the issue.
Are you sure that isn't just the Multi air electric valves making their normal noises, they are very loud. I had the same engine in my Dart and it chattered like a diesel at idle, perfectly normal in my engines case. traded it in at 56,000 miles no issues with it.
 

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The noise in the video is not normal. I think some other member had an issue with the waste gate solenoid that had issues like this.

The lag could be waste gate related but to me it sound like normal turbo lag. Under 3k rpm this motor is slow as can be.
 

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It does not sound like it is a metallic noise. It sounds like some plastic is hitting on some other plastic.

Can you please check the fan of the radiator? It sounds like the fan of the radiator is not well in place (or one of the blades has a problem?) and sometimes when spinning, the blades touch/hit something they are not supposed to, and create this noise.

This would also explain that the noise is interminent (i.e. you mostly hear it at idle when the fan of the radiator has to engage to cool the engine).

I don't think it is turbo related because you hear it at idle. The turbo engages at 1700-1800rpms.
 

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Just wanted to post an update to all of my problems...

Jeep was finally able to fit my Horn issue. The low horn went out and left only the high pitched horn working. That has been taken care of.
I have not had the 4WD light come on since
The radio has been fine as well
Bluetooth is still intermittent. Sometimes it will connect to my phone, other times I have to turn off the vehicle, turn off the bluetooth and reset everything and it will finally come back
Acceleration has still been an issue. It will hesitate sometimes and finally give me power after a couple seconds.

New problems
I have heard a mechanical grinding noise during acceleration twice now. ( I am at about 13k miles)

Ongoing Problems
Jeep has still yet to figure out the loud tapping noise that makes the vehicle sound like its a diesel. Its a very loud ticking noise at idle. It doesnt happen all the time and of course every single time it does it, the dealer can never figure out what the **** is wrong with it. I think its turbo/engine related. I have even sent my numerous videos of the issue to the service adviser where they show the mechanic and they cant replicate the issue.
It does not sound like it is a metallic noise. It sounds like some plastic is hitting on some other plastic.

Can you please check the fan of the radiator? It sounds like the fan of the radiator is not well in place (or one of the blades has a problem?) and sometimes when spinning, the blades touch/hit something they are not supposed to, and create this noise.

This would also explain that the noise is interminent (i.e. you mostly hear it at idle when the fan of the radiator has to engage to cool the engine).

I don't think it is turbo related because you hear it at idle. The turbo engages at 1700-1800rpms.
I agree it is plastic sounding.. @AccordFlex - Does the noise seem to come from that black plastic diverter valve case mounted to the turbo? I noticed you focusing on that in the video... Try putting your hand on it while the noise is going on (don't touch the turbo though, just the plastic thing) and see if you can feel corresponding vibrations. The factory diverter valve inside is made from cheap plastic. This is what holds boost while you are accelerating, but it could be chattering against the aluminum surface that it gets pressed against while you are at idle since it is cheaply made, the valve and sleeve inside are all just pieces of plastic. I have replaced my valve with the GFB DV+ diverter valve which basically swaps out the factory plastic with metal and silicone O ring gaskets. The factory valve is held on by three short hex screws, you will need an allen wrench #5 , and they aren't on very tight, it should only take a tech at the dealer maybe 20 minutes to take it off and inspect it - It is better to have a technician take it off the first time so that way the dealership can't blame you for breaking it at home. You only have 13k miles so it would be covered under warranty.
 

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Hello All,


Video of problem - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8T2t0BgAho

Other issues Ive had with the car:

1 - 4WD light, cant tell me what caused this yet, it has come on three times so far (not fixed)
2 - radio light (had this problem 4 times so far and each time they have just reset/reflashed the radio. No features of the radio work when this light comes on.
3 - bluetooth would not work when the radio went out, assuming they are linked.
4 - when the radio went out, all of the steering wheel control buttons went out as well, even the ones that do not control the radio
5 - my driver side was leaking water at the top by the headliner (fixed)
6 - the driver side door was not aligned right and was having issues closing properly ( i think this may have been what caused my water leaking problem) (fixed)
7 - my horn completely went out (the low one, the high still works so the horn makes an awful high pitched beep now. Jeep is however correcting this issue for me) (pending fix)
8 - I have certain instances where the car acceleration will blip. It will stop for a split second then give me back the power. Almost like its not getting proper fuel or spark at all times. (not fixed)
9 - a rock caused my tire to split. Yes a small piece of gravel got stuck into the tread of the tire and split the tire causing a blowout. I know this is more so the tire manufacturer but regardless, its a problem i had and was shocked that a small 1/2" rock split a tire, on a jeep of all things.

First the sound. The regular and consistent chatter that sounds like a diesel valve train is normal. It's the multi-air oil activated valves. The intermittent trunking noise is not normal. If you think you can poke a rod into a running engine bay without getting it caught in a moving part, you can score a mechanics stethoscope for like $15 and try to isolate the source of the noise. Putting your ear to a mark one giant screwdriver while holding it in contact with a part in question can also do the job, but it costs more than the right tool unless you already have it.

I DEEPLY caution you to be certain you know how to not get it caught in moving parts. Don't get your tool or your own parts stuck in moving bits, it's bad for you. You could lose an eye or worse you could subject yourself to a degloving injury. Google it if you don't know what it is. Your safety is your responsibility, and you have been warned and that is my disclaimer.

9 - That sucks, but like you said, is more of a tire manufacturer thing. However, factory tires are under warranty like any tire purchase would be, and are warranted against certain defects. FCA/your dealer should be dealing with that though. If you haven't asked, ask. IF the dealer said no, try jeep cares contact. You may get no results, but it's worth trying.

7, 4, 3, 2 - given that the fix seems to have accompanied other odd issues, I'd guess there was a grounding issue. A grounding issue could definitely make the radio go out. That will set off the radio warning, and no radio head unit means no steering wheel controls and no bluetooth. As fro the 4wd issue, it could or could not be ground related. So possibly 1 too if you don't see it crop up again soon.

5, 6 - yup sounds like bad door fit = leak.

8 - This one is most variable. It could be a ton of things ranging from normal to broken. I'll cover normal for a turbo engine.

Turbo engines compress the charge air heading into the engine. Compressing it makes it hot. The intercooler tries to cool it. But there is only so much it can do. If the charge air gets too hot, you will get knock, if it gets more hot, or fueling gets lean, it will lead to detonation, which is bad. So, when the computer sees a knock sensor signal outside the engineers specified range of good, it has to do something to manage that knock so you don't get to detonation. Usually what will be done first is bump up the injector duty cycle to add more fuel. The eliminates lean conditions, and the atomized fuel from the injectors also absorbs heat form the charge air since it is cooler and has a ton of surface area. If that doesn't work, or the fueling algorithms favor more fuel economy, they will pull ignition timing, which means you lose a lot of power, but the engine moves back from the threshold where knock was occurring, and the knock likely goes away. So what if those two things don't do it? Well, manufacturers and owners don't like blown up engines, so the next strategy is usually fuel cut. If knock keeps increasing despite mitigation attempts, fuel cut is what is done, and it is what it sounds like. The computer stops the delivery of fuel to the engine.

Hitting fuel cut is fun times. It's like the car stalled out until the fuel comes back. Totally awesome at highway speeds. That's sarcasm BTW.

FCA seems to tune the engines to be pretty sensitive to knock. I know the 2.4 is, and doing research on the 1.4, it appears to be as well, at least in the 500, which is mostly what I found any real info on back when.

So possible issues with power off idle, these are not definitive, it could be a bunch of other things too:

a) you are heat soaked and getting on the gas hard and the engine is pulling timing because the charge air is getting too hot.

b) It's REALLY, REALLY cold out and getting on the gas hard and the engine is pulling timing because the injectors can't ramp up fast enough to go with the really dense charge air.

c) You have a knock sensor that is oversensitive, but not bad enough to trip a code. This situation stinks, because it's not actually BROKEN broken, but it makes things suck. I went through this with a MAF sensor on a vehicle I bought which caused it to have really poor gas mileage. Argued with the dealer for years about the mileage being bad, they said it was my right foot, MAF finally died and was replaced elsewhere, and more or less we were both right.

d) Your knock sensor is fine, but something other than the air, fuel, and fire equation is causing the knock. Like maybe that weird irregular knocking is conducting through the engine block and setting off your knock sensor. Other popular culprits are heat shielding and anything bolted to the block being loose. Stuff near the sensor is more likely than things farther away when dealing with less severe rattles.

e) It has nothing to do with knock, the tires might just stink for your driving style and road conditions and you are breaking them free when you treat every light like a drag strip. Traction control pretty much all happens by applying brakes and reducing power output. So.... obvious path from X to Y there.

Just some ideas/fuel for having informed discussions with repair staff.
 

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Registered
Joined
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607 Posts
Just wanted to post an update to all of my problems...

Jeep was finally able to fit my Horn issue. The low horn went out and left only the high pitched horn working. That has been taken care of.
I have not had the 4WD light come on since
The radio has been fine as well
Bluetooth is still intermittent. Sometimes it will connect to my phone, other times I have to turn off the vehicle, turn off the bluetooth and reset everything and it will finally come back
Acceleration has still been an issue. It will hesitate sometimes and finally give me power after a couple seconds.

New problems
I have heard a mechanical grinding noise during acceleration twice now. ( I am at about 13k miles)

Ongoing Problems
Jeep has still yet to figure out the loud tapping noise that makes the vehicle sound like its a diesel. Its a very loud ticking noise at idle. It doesnt happen all the time and of course every single time it does it, the dealer can never figure out what the **** is wrong with it. I think its turbo/engine related. I have even sent my numerous videos of the issue to the service adviser where they show the mechanic and they cant replicate the issue.
First the sound. The regular and consistent chatter that sounds like a diesel valve train is normal. It's the multi-air oil activated valves. The intermittent trunking noise is not normal. If you think you can poke a rod into a running engine bay without getting it caught in a moving part, you can score a mechanics stethoscope for like $15 and try to isolate the source of the noise. Putting your ear to a mark one giant screwdriver while holding it in contact with a part in question can also do the job, but it costs more than the right tool unless you already have it.

I DEEPLY caution you to be certain you know how to not get it caught in moving parts. Don't get your tool or your own parts stuck in moving bits, it's bad for you. You could lose an eye or worse you could subject yourself to a degloving injury. Google it if you don't know what it is. Your safety is your responsibility, and you have been warned and that is my disclaimer.

9 - That sucks, but like you said, is more of a tire manufacturer thing. However, factory tires are under warranty like any tire purchase would be, and are warranted against certain defects. FCA/your dealer should be dealing with that though. If you haven't asked, ask. IF the dealer said no, try jeep cares contact. You may get no results, but it's worth trying.

7, 4, 3, 2 - given that the fix seems to have accompanied other odd issues, I'd guess there was a grounding issue. A grounding issue could definitely make the radio go out. That will set off the radio warning, and no radio head unit means no steering wheel controls and no bluetooth. As fro the 4wd issue, it could or could not be ground related. So possibly 1 too if you don't see it crop up again soon.

5, 6 - yup sounds like bad door fit = leak.

8 - This one is most variable. It could be a ton of things ranging from normal to broken. I'll cover normal for a turbo engine.

Turbo engines compress the charge air heading into the engine. Compressing it makes it hot. The intercooler tries to cool it. But there is only so much it can do. If the charge air gets too hot, you will get knock, if it gets more hot, or fueling gets lean, it will lead to detonation, which is bad. So, when the computer sees a knock sensor signal outside the engineers specified range of good, it has to do something to manage that knock so you don't get to detonation. Usually what will be done first is bump up the injector duty cycle to add more fuel. The eliminates lean conditions, and the atomized fuel from the injectors also absorbs heat form the charge air since it is cooler and has a ton of surface area. If that doesn't work, or the fueling algorithms favor more fuel economy, they will pull ignition timing, which means you lose a lot of power, but the engine moves back from the threshold where knock was occurring, and the knock likely goes away. So what if those two things don't do it? Well, manufacturers and owners don't like blown up engines, so the next strategy is usually fuel cut. If knock keeps increasing despite mitigation attempts, fuel cut is what is done, and it is what it sounds like. The computer stops the delivery of fuel to the engine.

Hitting fuel cut is fun times. It's like the car stalled out until the fuel comes back. Totally awesome at highway speeds. That's sarcasm BTW.

FCA seems to tune the engines to be pretty sensitive to knock. I know the 2.4 is, and doing research on the 1.4, it appears to be as well, at least in the 500, which is mostly what I found any real info on back when.

So possible issues with power off idle, these are not definitive, it could be a bunch of other things too:

a) you are heat soaked and getting on the gas hard and the engine is pulling timing because the charge air is getting too hot.

b) It's REALLY, REALLY cold out and getting on the gas hard and the engine is pulling timing because the injectors can't ramp up fast enough to go with the really dense charge air.

c) You have a knock sensor that is oversensitive, but not bad enough to trip a code. This situation stinks, because it's not actually BROKEN broken, but it makes things suck. I went through this with a MAF sensor on a vehicle I bought which caused it to have really poor gas mileage. Argued with the dealer for years about the mileage being bad, they said it was my right foot, MAF finally died and was replaced elsewhere, and more or less we were both right.

d) Your knock sensor is fine, but something other than the air, fuel, and fire equation is causing the knock. Like maybe that weird irregular knocking is conducting through the engine block and setting off your knock sensor. Other popular culprits are heat shielding and anything bolted to the block being loose. Stuff near the sensor is more likely than things farther away when dealing with less severe rattles.

e) It has nothing to do with knock, the tires might just stink for your driving style and road conditions and you are breaking them free when you treat every light like a drag strip. Traction control pretty much all happens by applying brakes and reducing power output. So.... obvious path from X to Y there.

Just some ideas/fuel for having informed discussions with repair staff.

@AccordFlex Mr. Raz-O has taken the time to write you an extensive giant report. Just print this and bring it to your dealership, LOL.
 

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Same sound on 2016 Rene 1.4L

Hey guys,

Been following this thread for some help or the solution to the problem that I also have been experiencing.
Got a '16 Jeep Rene with 1.4L Turbo in Jan and by Feb i noticed the same sound. Reported it to my dealer and they flash-upgraded the comp but the waste gate solenoid still does its little chattering... which seems to be getting more frequent. Can someone please tell me what the final solution to this issue is?

Much appreciated.
 

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8 Posts
Same sound on 2016 Rene 1.4L

Hey guys,

Been following this thread for some help or the solution to the problem that I also have been experiencing.
Got a '16 Jeep Rene with 1.4L Turbo in Jan and by Feb i noticed the same sound. Reported it to my dealer and they flash-upgraded the comp but the waste gate solenoid still does its little chattering... which seems to be getting more frequent. Can someone please tell me what the final solution to this issue is?

Much appreciated.
Hey guys,

I found the solution.
It seems when the ignition is done too soon the ECM or the computer is not allowed to do its pre-start check which causes the EBCV or waste gate to keep making that tapping sound when idling... Sounds crazy but I have not heard the tapping noise since Jan 2019 when I give it a few seconds before I started it.

Rule of thumb: Let the "Renegade" come up on the dash and the temp and gas gauges load fully, then start the engine. Guarantee the sound won't happen again... If its the same thing we are talkin about here.
 
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