Jeep Renegade Forum banner
21 - 40 of 70 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
73 Posts
Oh, man!!! Now I see what you guys are talking about! I had no idea those were capped like that. I thought that was the actual steel bolt, and maybe chromed.

What the hell is that cap made of -- aluminum? Or is that just thin steel? What the hell -- just for looks??

So peeling these caps off permanently wouldn't work, since the resulting bolts would be even smaller than 17" (yes?) and would take even less torque if they'd been put on by a gorilla with an impact wrench.

Or are those caps at all easy to permanently remove?

You said you'd replaced yours. With the ones you linked to? 28mm Acorn Seat Lug Bolt 20pc Kit (Black) M12x1.25 | 17mm Hex | eBay

Are they any good? They're 17mm, so the OEM lug wrench would work... But I'm a bit skeptical of eBay...

Sorry about all the questions, but I had. No. Idea.
i have wheel spacers on my renegade, but i used the ones i linked to, to secure the spacers to my renegade. they are a solid construction so they wont cause issues like the stock ones. they are solid steel and seem fine to me. i used a pair of wire cutters to pull the lip up around that one lug bolt and a pair of regular pliers to pull it off in about 30 seconds. its just thin steel, and its just for looks and cheap to make for the company.

my wheel spacers had studs, so i used these to hold my wheels onto the spacers.

2396352113
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
751 Posts
i used the ones i linked to, to secure the spacers to my renegade.
And I assume, having acorn seats, that those would work with the OEM wheels I've got? (I've never used aftermarket lug bolts, and I'd prefer not to have my wheels fall off while driving...)

i used a pair of wire cutters to pull the lip up around that one lug bolt and a pair of regular pliers to pull it off in about 30 seconds.
Are they still 17mm underneath the caps? Still, that may be more work than it's worth for me...

i used these to hold my wheels onto the spacers
o_O o_O o_O

:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
73 Posts
And I assume, having acorn seats, that those would work with the OEM wheels I've got? (I've never used aftermarket lug bolts, and I'd prefer not to have my wheels fall off while driving...)



Are they still 17mm underneath the caps? Still, that may be more work than it's worth for me...



o_O o_O o_O

:)
they are not 17mm under the stock caps. i believe they are a 16mm under them, but i have not checked. its not worth it to keep the stock lug bolts on there. if they round over, there is the potential to damage the wheel in trying to remove them down the road. the ones i linked to will work on the stock wheels, if anything they are better than stock because they wont have the cap issues associated with the stock capped lug bolts.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Marek K

·
Registered
Joined
·
751 Posts
So... I think I definitely need new bolts.

Those bolts that you recommended... 28mm Acorn Seat Lug Bolt 20pc Kit (Black) M12x1.25 | 17mm Hex | eBay ... They do say that they'll fit a 2021 Trailhawk, like mine. But they also say they'll fit a 2017 Trailhawk, which they apparently won't according to one review.

So what does "acorn bolt" mean? Apparently not the seat, since these say they've got cone seats... Are we positive the 2021 Trailhawk takes bolts with cone seats?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
751 Posts
What in God's green earth would cause Jeep (or Fiat) engineers to design a lug bolt like this? It can't be more cost-effective than a solid-steel bolt...

So back to JeffB1961's original question...

what brands are safe to buy
What are some other recommendations? The ones from MADDNESS Autoworks that jeff1 recommended are apparently no longer available.

Trevinator1990 recommended these: 28mm Acorn Seat Lug Bolt 20pc Kit (Black) M12x1.25 | 17mm Hex | eBay But there's some wonky information on the web page. And no information where they're made. China, I assume. China can make some excellent-quality products, if they're under reputable international brand names. Most of the time. But I've seen some crap made there. Trim pieces are one thing. But something as critical as lug bolts are something else.

Here's another set, from Amazon -- these are silver-color: AmazonSmile: Richeer 20 PCS 12x1.25 Wheel Lug Bolts for Wheel Spacers, 28mm Shank Length 17mm HEX 48mm Overall Length Solid Studs Set, 60 Conical Seat : Automotive But off-brand, and I assume Chinese-made again...
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
1,867 Posts
They are chromed caps. They are meant to come off with a screwdriver before unbolting the wheel.


They don't. (Easily) Remove and bin.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
I had this problem about a week ago and replaced the bolts myself. My Renegade still has the extended warranty which will cover the replacement but they will put the exact same thing on and that would be no better. I found bolts on Amazon for $25 (here's the link) Amazon.com: Richeer 20 PCS 12x1.25 Wheel Lug Bolts for Wheel Spacers, 28mm Shank Length 17mm HEX 48mm Overall Length Solid Studs Set, 60 Conical Seat : Automotive. I took the old bolts off one at a time and replaced one at a time. No need to remove wheel. Using one of the cross lug wrenches I put the 11/16" size on the offending bolt and used a hammer to drive it onto the head of the bolt. Then I loosened about one full turn and wiggled the wrench back and forth until the wrench came off from being driven on. Then I could either turn the bolt with my fingers or the wrench by simply keeping pressure against the bolt while turning. It took me about 30 minutes to replace them all. The dealership wanted to charge me $135 for the new bolts and we didn't even discuss labor charges. I'll have to do the same thing with my Cherokee as it has the same lug bolts on it. My Renegade goes to the dealership on Monday to have the radio screen replaced (another frequent complaint for Renes). OEM radios are $1100. Warranty does cover mine and I'll only pay $100 for it. Next time it happens I'll be looking for aftermarket.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
751 Posts
They are chromed caps. They are meant to come off with a screwdriver before unbolting the wheel.
OK, that's just plain stupid. (Not what you wrote, but the design.) They look like the actual wheel bolts, and I certainly would have put the lug wrench (or rather my 17mm socket with an extendible handle) to them If I'd had to change a tire up to now.

And the Owner's Manual doesn't give a clue that the caps are supposed to be removed first. Just "[r]emove the wheel bolts and tire." No wonder people are mangling them with a lug wrench.

So if the caps are meant to be removed, then the actual bolts must be 17mm also...?

What's the technique of removing the caps with a screwdriver? I'm going to have to try that, and leave just the actual bolts... Unless they'd corrode more easily... Are they hopefully stainless steel...?

Yeah, those are the exact ones I saw on Amazon too -- see Post #25. I was wondering about their fit and quality. So you say the fit is fine...?

You didn't remove the original caps first, before removing the OEM bolts?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
751 Posts
OK, I just took one of the lug bolts off (2021 Trailhawk).

2396352124


Even examining it very closely, I still can't tell for sure if that's a separate chromed cap on there; or if it's one solid piece.

The hex part and the flange do seem to be a bit more shiny than the cone and the threading... but in any case, if it's separate, it's certainly crimped on very tightly; and not meant to be popped off with a screwdriver or anything else before removing the bolt...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
73 Posts
They are chromed caps. They are meant to come off with a screwdriver before unbolting the wheel.


They don't. (Easily) Remove and bin.
they are not meant to come off, they are supposed to stay on. the fact that the inner size (red lug bolt) is 16mm (i just checked them) and the chrome capped (blue lug bolt) is 17mm. im just guessing here, but the stock lug wrench fits the 17mm, correct? my renegade didnt have it when i bought it so i cant say for sure on that part. they are garbage, yes, but not meant to come off. something that requires destructive force to remove, is not designed to come off.

and again, the ones i linked to are a tapered seat and the same exact thread as the stock lug bolts on my 2015 jeep renegade and would work perfectly on my wheels. it just so happened that i used them on the wheel spacers that are designed to use the same stock lug bolts that came on my renegade. they are a solid steel and looked to be of good quality and have a good finish on them when i installed them.

2396352123
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
73 Posts
OK, I just took one of the lug bolts off (2021 Trailhawk).

View attachment 2396352124

Even examining it very closely, I still can't tell for sure if that's a separate chromed cap on there; or if it's one solid piece.

The hex part and the flange do seem to be a bit more shiny than the cone and the threading... but in any case, if it's separate, it's certainly crimped on very tightly; and not meant to be popped off with a screwdriver or anything else before removing the bolt...

yes, that is a capped bolt. it will be a 16mm size under the 17mm cap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
751 Posts
yes, that is a capped bolt. it will be a 16mm size under the 17mm cap.
Yup.

It came off easily, but then the Trailhawk is only about four month old.

I've just ordered that set of lug bolts off of Amazon, and they'll be here in a week.

The Amazon bolts are apparently not stainless steel (I have no idea if that would be appropriate for lug bolts in any case). The listing says the material is "35CrMo."

Looking that up... 35CrMo Steel Chemical Composition, Mechanical Properties, Equivalent (theworldmaterial.com)

So... "a Chinese alloy steel" (Aha! That confirms where they're made, if there was any doubt). Seems to be appropriate for applications like this.

I'm not a metallurgist, but I don't see any information on rust resistance. Maybe somebody can tell...?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
73 Posts
stainless is quite possibly the worst material to use for a bolt or nut anyways. ever try to put a nylon lock nut on a stainless bolt with an impact driver? it galls up the threads and locks it up so tight it will break the bolt trying to get them loose again. would be the same story torquing them down as lug bolts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I just removed my front tires today to remove the burned out housings of the fog lights. ( dealer claims he has never heard of renegade fog lights melting). I saw these hideous caps that were abused buy a local tire dealer. I have ordered the following from Amazon.

Richeer 20 PCS 12x1.25 Wheel Lug Bolts for Wheel Spacers, 28mm Shank Length 17mm HEX 48mm Overall Length Solid Studs Set, 60 Conical Seat
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
751 Posts
I just removed my front tires today to remove the burned out housings of the fog lights. ( dealer claims he has never heard of renegade fog lights melting). I saw these hideous caps that were abused buy a local tire dealer. I have ordered the following from Amazon.

Richeer 20 PCS 12x1.25 Wheel Lug Bolts for Wheel Spacers, 28mm Shank Length 17mm HEX 48mm Overall Length Solid Studs Set, 60 Conical Seat
Yup, those are the ones that Trevinator1990 has, and that I've ordered. We'll see...
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
1,867 Posts
My bad, I misread some initial posts as saying they were 19mm 'caps' and 17mm underneath.

Previous cars I've had even came with a plastic overcap/plunger to pull off the chromed caps.

Otherwise they've all come out the factory with mild steel bolts. Including the Renegade.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,052 Posts
stainless is quite possibly the worst material to use for a bolt or nut anyways. ever try to put a nylon lock nut on a stainless bolt with an impact driver? it galls up the threads and locks it up so tight it will break the bolt trying to get them loose again. would be the same story torquing them down as lug bolts.
Simples! Doon't use a torque when tightening nyloc nuts especially at high speed and even more so when fully tight.

Hand tighten only may be the way forward to prevent the nyon overheating and essentially melting onto the threads of the stainless steel bolt.

Just a thought.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,052 Posts
So... "a Chinese alloy steel" (Aha! That confirms where they're made, if there was any doubt). Seems to be appropriate for applications like this.

I'm not a metallurgist, but I don't see any information on rust resistance. Maybe somebody can tell...?
Off topic, I bought Chinese stainless steel fishing rod holders for the boat. Within 3 months the sea air had corroded them. 6 months we can call it rust and 12 months I call them pieces of sh1t.

I should have known better. Buy cheap and buy 2 or 3 times before buying the real item that would have been half the cost at the beginning.

Now I am happy to pay the correct price for the correct part. Safe in the knowledge that it is indeed stainless steel and not Chinese sh1t. :giggle::giggle::giggle:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
73 Posts
Simples! Doon't use a torque when tightening nyloc nuts especially at high speed and even more so when fully tight.

Hand tighten only may be the way forward to prevent the nyon overheating and essentially melting onto the threads of the stainless steel bolt.

Just a thought.
its not the nylon that siezed the bolts, its the fact that stainless steel is a soft metal and the metal threads welded themselves together due to the added resistance that the nylon provided. the impact just accelerated the fact, as i have done the same with a ratchet. stainless is simply garbage as a fastener.
 
21 - 40 of 70 Posts
Top