87,000 Miles and going strong
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71 Posts
My wife has 9000 miles on her 2017... but that’s not gonna help! 
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604 Posts
I hit 98K a few days ago. 2015 Latitude 1.4T manual FWD.
It's been very reliable. There was an initial manufacturing defect that required replacement of the turbo oil feed pipe for free at 5k miles. uConnect 5.0 head unit replaced under extended warranty a year ago (I think due to the center air vent design exposing the back of the head unit to too much heat.)
Currently my dealer is awaiting the parts to replace my airbox and one of the vacuum lines coming off of it, due to it getting broken. This is also happening under extended warranty, and the airbox design was changed in later models.
No other problems whatsoever.
It's been very reliable. There was an initial manufacturing defect that required replacement of the turbo oil feed pipe for free at 5k miles. uConnect 5.0 head unit replaced under extended warranty a year ago (I think due to the center air vent design exposing the back of the head unit to too much heat.)
Currently my dealer is awaiting the parts to replace my airbox and one of the vacuum lines coming off of it, due to it getting broken. This is also happening under extended warranty, and the airbox design was changed in later models.
No other problems whatsoever.
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71 Posts
My wife has a 2017 FWD 1.4T sport. Like a little rocket!
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199 Posts
56665 miles on my Wife's 2015 Latitude and all is well. Been in for a rear seat belt tensioner.
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3 Posts
2015 Renegade Latitude. Front wheel drive only. Currently has 31,000. We leased this vehicle for the first 3 years with no trouble.
Bought it off the lease for my daughter this past August. Bought the extended warranty. Just recently put new tires on it. Had a bad tie rod which the replaced ($100 deductible) but now they are telling me that the front pads and rotors are shot. Says there are no aftermarket parts available and that Mopar OEM is the only way I can go. They want over $800 at the dealership for front pads and rotors only????????
Rock Auto seems to have a long list of compatible parts.
???????????????????????
Bought it off the lease for my daughter this past August. Bought the extended warranty. Just recently put new tires on it. Had a bad tie rod which the replaced ($100 deductible) but now they are telling me that the front pads and rotors are shot. Says there are no aftermarket parts available and that Mopar OEM is the only way I can go. They want over $800 at the dealership for front pads and rotors only????????
Rock Auto seems to have a long list of compatible parts.
???????????????????????
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185 Posts
I just checked Oriellys, I have an account, they have parts available. May want to find another place to have work done. At least non warranteed stuff.
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71 Posts
Amazon has tons of rotors for sale for renegades.
One company has front and rear black slotted rotors WITH ceramic pads for $198.02
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One company has front and rear black slotted rotors WITH ceramic pads for $198.02
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120 Posts
no don't do it.....just priced top tier brakes and rotors...$200 parts and $220 labor.....rock auto $180 parts and do it yourself......good luck..
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71 Posts
Disc brakes are pretty easy to do. Especially if you get rotors too.
Here are the instructions... I may forget something, so chime in..
1. Loosen the master cylinder cap.
2. Jack the car up. Though it is possible to do one wheel at a time. Start with the furthest wheel from the master cylinder. Left hand drive would be the right rear.
3. Remove the wheel or wheels.
4. Remove two bolts holding Calipers on. One at the top and one at the bottom of the caliper.
5. Remove caliper and use coat hanger or other wire to support the caliper so it does not put pressure on the hose.
6. Slide off the rotor.
7. Put on the new rotor.
8. Remove the old brake pads.
9. Use a brake piston compressor to squeeze the brake piston back into the caliper. I’ve used C Clamps, channel lock pliers, etc to compress the piston.
10. Put new pads into caliper, remove coat hanger, and then slide over the rotor.
11. Bolt caliper back.
12. Put the wheel back on.
Do that to all of them.
Next - left rear, right front, then left front.
When done, start it up, press the brake slowly a few times, then tighten the master cylinder cap. Then keep pressing the brakes hard over and over so the pistons can expand into the new brake pads, and you are done,
Takes about 1000 miles for brakes to fully break in...
See!?! So easy a child can do it!
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Here are the instructions... I may forget something, so chime in..
1. Loosen the master cylinder cap.
2. Jack the car up. Though it is possible to do one wheel at a time. Start with the furthest wheel from the master cylinder. Left hand drive would be the right rear.
3. Remove the wheel or wheels.
4. Remove two bolts holding Calipers on. One at the top and one at the bottom of the caliper.
5. Remove caliper and use coat hanger or other wire to support the caliper so it does not put pressure on the hose.
6. Slide off the rotor.
7. Put on the new rotor.
8. Remove the old brake pads.
9. Use a brake piston compressor to squeeze the brake piston back into the caliper. I’ve used C Clamps, channel lock pliers, etc to compress the piston.
10. Put new pads into caliper, remove coat hanger, and then slide over the rotor.
11. Bolt caliper back.
12. Put the wheel back on.
Do that to all of them.
Next - left rear, right front, then left front.
When done, start it up, press the brake slowly a few times, then tighten the master cylinder cap. Then keep pressing the brakes hard over and over so the pistons can expand into the new brake pads, and you are done,
Takes about 1000 miles for brakes to fully break in...
See!?! So easy a child can do it!
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185 Posts
Unless you are replacing the caliper, line etc and need to bleed the system, it doesn't mater which wheel you start with.Disc brakes are pretty easy to do. Especially if you get rotors too.
Here are the instructions... I may forget something, so chime in..
1. Loosen the master cylinder cap.
2. Jack the car up. Though it is possible to do one wheel at a time. Start with the furthest wheel from the master cylinder. Left hand drive would be the right rear.
3. Remove the wheel or wheels.
4. Remove two bolts holding Calipers on. One at the top and one at the bottom of the caliper.
5. Remove caliper and use coat hanger or other wire to support the caliper so it does not put pressure on the hose.
6. Slide off the rotor.
7. Put on the new rotor.
8. Remove the old brake pads.
9. Use a brake piston compressor to squeeze the brake piston back into the caliper. I’ve used C Clamps, channel lock pliers, etc to compress the piston.
10. Put new pads into caliper, remove coat hanger, and then slide over the rotor.
11. Bolt caliper back.
12. Put the wheel back on.
Do that to all of them.
Next - left rear, right front, then left front.
When done, start it up, press the brake slowly a few times, then tighten the master cylinder cap. Then keep pressing the brakes hard over and over so the pistons can expand into the new brake pads, and you are done,
Takes about 1000 miles for brakes to fully break in...
See!?! So easy a child can do it!
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Don't forget to clean up the contact surface where the pads slide on the caliper and apply a small amount of brake approved lube to the contact areas. This will help prevent/slow down future rust and sticking pads.
When replacing rotors, which you should do with every pad replacement, make sure the hub surface where the rotor sits is clean and rust free. I also apply a thin layer of lube to the hub surface to prevent future rust. Excessive rust on the hub can cause an issue similar to a warped rotor.
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13 Posts
110,000 miles on mine. Replaced thermostat recently but no major issues with it other than that
![2396348359]()
102,500 miles on my 2015 Trailhawk and doing great!
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1,581 Posts
Wow, FCA should put your Renegade in an ad.
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