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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
While checking my air filter today I clumsily managed to break one of the plastic vacuum hose fittings that attaches to it. It's the one on the left currently being held in place through the creative use of zip ties.

Anybody know what this line goes to? I'm not getting a CEL yet but it's obviously no longer a perfect vacuum seal, so I'm wondering if the plastic neck that the fitting is part of is an available part or if the entire airbox will have to be replaced.
 

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Ha Ha! I did the exact same thing on my 2nd day. I slipped a 3" pvc tube inside as a connector and it seals it well enough. Not sure what its for or whether it sucks or blows gasses. Doesn't matter, its not an emergency. Never a code. and forget repair with any glue, its too structurally stressed for glues.

I was gonna say "it was like that when I got here" kinda thing to the dealer but I'm afraid of kharma. So I'll just wait it out until the local junk yard or the dealer has the part available. Its a shame, the connector actually slips off easily once you figure it out. Dont know if the unit comes off the lid or not. Looks like its sonically welded on.

What i wanna know is if the large air duct articulates with its lower segment and comes apart. I'd like more room when changing the oil filter. And its how it got busted to begin with.

I'll let you know when I come up with a fix.

And you're a braver man than I for bringing it up. I'd never have brought it up on the cobra forum. They'd laugh me off before rescinding my membership.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Update: I'm at the dealer for an oil change today, and pointed this out. Price to replace the airbox is $287. It's still never thrown a code, and the tech agrees that if there was any significant vacuum leakage it would throw a code. Since this fitting is forward of the MAF sensor, it's automatically compensating for any loss of vacuum pressure. If the break was between the MAF and the throttle body, there would be real problems.

I'm going to leave it alone for now. If I happen across an airbox from a junker I'll probably swap it out. If it starts showing symptoms of a vacuum leak, maybe I'll hit it with some JB weld in addition to the current zip tie fix which seems to be providing pretty good structural integrity. It hasn't moved a whisker in the several thousand miles since it happened.
 

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Update: Price to replace the airbox is $287. I'm going to leave it alone for now. If I happen across an airbox from a junker I'll probably swap it out.
Ditto. Lesson learned is watch the plastics in the engine bay. Zip ties offer greater strength than OEM. So I'm watching local yards as well.
 

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Rich, in one of the other threads, I replied that I got a new lid for about $50 shipped. Keep checking car-parts.com and ebay. Lids are out there. Fixing the broken tree fixed my engine hesitation.
 

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Those hoses didn't seem to have vacuum I'm assuming they're part of EVAP system. Do you have a picture of what broke or to you replaced on yours? Also did it help your fuel economy? I've noticed the 1.4 is hard to get above 25mpg babying it at highway speed which doesn't sound right. I also need 3 software updates but they didn't tell me for what. I'm curious if those will help too.
 

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Those hoses didn't seem to have vacuum I'm assuming they're part of EVAP system. Do you have a picture of what broke or to you replaced on yours? Also did it help your fuel economy? I've noticed the 1.4 is hard to get above 25mpg babying it at highway speed which doesn't sound right. I also need 3 software updates but they didn't tell me for what. I'm curious if those will help too.
Your assumption is correct. Those hoses are part of the EVAP system. I think it uses the boost pressure from the charged side of the intake to help create a vacuum to work the EVAP system. I could be very wrong on this though.

I only know this because I went and put a DIY short ram intake on my 1.4L Turbo. To connect everything I remade the EVAP lines with transmission cooling tubes since the PEX-style tubing FCA uses is really rigid. I originally didn't connect the EVAP line coming form the charged side (just capped it) and I got an EVAP CEL after my first new tank of fuel.

You may want to get the updates done just to see if it helps with the mpg, especially if you have the fiddly 9spd Auto. I Have the manual and can easily push 34mpg highway. I average about 28mpg combined.
 

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Here's the thing. It's an open vent into the airbox so not actually under vacuum. I can't see how it could affect drivability by that premise. Also the JB water weld is really tough stuff. I honestly feel like it happened by bad design. The hose needs more flex, the rigidity is why others are breaking as well.
 

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Here's the thing. It's an open vent into the airbox so not actually under vacuum. I can't see how it could affect drivability by that premise. Also the JB water weld is really tough stuff. I honestly feel like it happened by bad design. The hose needs more flex, the rigidity is why others are breaking as well.
It isn't a vacuum at all, it is actually a boost leak. There are lots of people over on the Dart and Abarth forums who have a mod of some sort which caps the boost leak re routs the EVAP system to keep things happy. There is a kit you can purchase to help you with it. FCA uses the pressure from the charged side to help the EVAP system. Why, I don't know.
 

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Sounds like if these are snapping by bad design then it should be put under recall by Jeep. You know if the Dealership is in there and puts any pressure on it and crack it, they are not going to be reporting the break or fixing it. I suggest everyone keep an eye on this area.
 

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Here's the thing. It's an open vent into the airbox so not actually under vacuum. I can't see how it could affect drivability by that premise. Also the JB water weld is really tough stuff. I honestly feel like it happened by bad design. The hose needs more flex, the rigidity is why others are breaking as well.
It isn't a vacuum at all, it is actually a boost leak. There are lots of people over on the Dart and Abarth forums who have a mod of some sort which caps the boost leak re routs the EVAP system to keep things happy. There is a kit you can purchase to help you with it. FCA uses the pressure from the charged side to help the EVAP system. Why, I don't know.
If it's a boost leak it would be a pressurized system which is isn't because that hose goes back to the air box which it exposed to atmosphere. It leads to intake tubing which is strange though. When I'm at the dealer today getting the parts installed I'll see if I can get them to show me the vacuum diagram. Old cars used to sticker them under the hood.
 

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Just found out at my latest oil change that mine is broken too. The guy claimed it was "already broken" and of course if it was, I didn't notice. However, since that oil change earlier this week, I've been hearing a whistling sound that wasn't there before. Did anyone else notice anything like that when their own line was broken?
It doesn't sound like an emergency - based on the comments in this forum - but for sure I'm hoping I can get it fixed somehow. I'll maybe give those zip-ties a try :)
Any other suggestions are appreciated!

K
 

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Just found out at my latest oil change that mine is broken too. The guy claimed it was "already broken" and of course if it was, I didn't notice. However, since that oil change earlier this week, I've been hearing a whistling sound that wasn't there before. Did anyone else notice anything like that when their own line was broken?
It doesn't sound like an emergency - based on the comments in this forum - but for sure I'm hoping I can get it fixed somehow. I'll maybe give those zip-ties a try :)
Any other suggestions are appreciated!

K
holy moly, dealership did an oil change for me yesterday and all the sudden the "hose is cracked" and it's going to cost me $387 to replace the entire unit. MFers!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It's not cracked, THEY snapped it clean off.
 

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