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Anchor bolts

Sure looks if your a bit handy you can make something up for a lot less than $80 bucks a couple of bolts and spacers!!!
 

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Revisiting this as I now finally have mine fully installed and a lot of things make more sense with the help of a friend who works for Fiat.

The anchor points (ebay search: jeep renegade toneau cargo cover mounting studs) were the first item installed. Why these? Because the alternative is replacing the trim panels on each side which is upwards of $800 to do. The anchor hinge bolts on eBay is the more cost-effective solution.

You will see these are different sizes. The one with the wider base went on the driver's side to center the cover properly.

To install, remove the inner upper trim panel, then pull away the lower trim panel enough to get to the marked circles on the trim panels.

Drill a small hole (maybe 5/32"? I couldn't read the bit size as I used an old bit) big enough the screws fit dead center of the marked circle, but tight enough to hold the screws in place. This makes it a lot easier to reach behind and put the washer and nuts on them to tighten. To ensure I put holes dead center of the marked circles I used a piece of paper and traced the circle, folded it in half, then in half again to get a sort of crosshairs to help center it up.

Once those were installed and the trim panels put back in place, then came the liftgate portion of adding the tonneau. My previous comment about nylon square nuts - that didn't work. As I said, with the help of a friend, I got the part numbers for the parts you do need to finish it properly.

Remove the lower liftgate trim (don't forget to remove the screw in the door pull cup first!).
Then remove the upper liftgate trim.

Look for the notched square in the metal (shown below).


Here, you will snap in the screw retainers (MOPAR # 68124627AA), one on each side (sold individually, order 2).
It should look like this once installed:


Now, look at the upper interior liftgate trim carefully. There is a circle on each side that looks like an artifact of the molding process. It isn't an artifact. This is where you drill the holes through the trim panel for the screws to go in. I didn't get a before picture, but this picture can be sort of a reference:


Now, put the trim panels back in and secure the door cup screw. If by chance you break the door cup screw mount, this is MOPAR # 68247107AA (not pictured).

Once the liftgate is all back together, you need to install the two screws the cables clip onto. These are MOPAR # 68201889AA (sold individually, order 2)
They look like this:


When you screw them in, only tighten until they are snug against the trim. They should look like this when installed:



And now, you can snap in your tonneau cover and attach the cables.


For the correct tonneau, these are the two part numbers I have for them:

This style (straight-sided) is part #: 5UX68JXWAA


This style (wide @ seat, narrow @ liftgate) is part #: 6DD80JXWAA


And my friend @ Fiat noted:
There is a US spec and an EU spec, and 2 shapes. But for US models as far as he could tell me, there are only 2 actual part numbers in US models.

All said and done, it took about 90 minutes to install.
 

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Hey guys,

I'm going to try this install as well and add some pictures, to complement jodyl1971's great walk-through.

That being said, I had some trouble with the cargo trim panel retaining clips that secure the hatch trim.

Does anybody know the MOPAR part number for the little black trim fasteners that clip? See the close-up picture for one of them.

Sal
 

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Does Jeep even care about it's owners of these vehicles ??

Why do WE have to investigate/search/trial and error the entire internet to INSTALL A SIMPLE FREAKING CARGO COVER ???

Oh, you want to install a cargo cover ? Well, to do it right, first you have to REPLACE both interior panels, or get the studs, by the way, we don't sell them, search ebay, modify your tailgate at your risk, make sure you order the right cover, dismantle your interior, then install.

My past three vehicles had cargo covers. It consisted of 3 steps:

1. Buy the cover.
2. Put it in.
3. Close tailgate.

Completed in the dealer parking lot in less than 2 minutes.

I want to like this Jeep, I really do, but it's becoming harder and harder. These things aren't "quirks" about the vehicle, it's downright stupidity and way for Jeep to nickel/dime us to death for items that are standard on other vehicles but prohibitively expensive for this vehicle. How do they justify 300 bucks for a vacuum formed piece of plastic ??
 

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So, I followed Jody's instructions and here are my comments and additions.

Notes
  • Trim panel push pins are a pain. Panel poppers would have been super helpful.
  • It took me about twice as long as Jody to do this project.
Addendum to Jody's Parts List
  • Push Pins. These are used to retain the trim panels to the body. You WILL break push-pins. No matter how careful you are, you will break a few. I found it cheaper and easier to order these from the dealer (PN 68317606-AA)
  • Screw Retainers. Jodyl1971 did a great job of describing these, but the part number is incorrect in his description. I found this out after ordering from two different Mopar parts stores and getting the wrong item. Those long, cylindrical, snap-in screw retainers are (PN 68247107-AA). This is further made confusing by the fact that the diagrams from many sites are incorrect - but this is the right part! As a side note, (PN 68124627-AA) is actually the door cup screw mount Jodyl1971 referenced.
Additional Pictures and Diagrams to Jody's Instructions
  • Pic of Left Panel. I was able to barely snake my hand into the side panel to secure the nut on the left stud. Note that the cargo light gets super hot, so close the hatch for a while, open it and dive in there. Take care to hold the nut tightly so you don't lose it, otherwise you might have an unwanted rattle.
  • Pic of Cargo Trim Panel. You can see the panel push pins - the other half of the panel is the mirror.
  • Pic of the Screw Hole. You can see the very light circle where you need to drill the holes for the screw that goes into the retainers in Jody's guide.
  • Pic of the Top Right Cargo Panel. There are two Torx screws securing the panel in solid circles. Then four panel push pins where the dotted circles are. I worked my way from front of car to rear. I lost all my push pins here - frustrating.
  • Pic of Bottom Right Cargo Panel. I only peeled back the top corner so I could get a nut behind the stud bolt. There are three Torx screws here, and you can pop the top two push pins to get enough clearance to stick a nut behind the bolt.
A few other notes
  • To pop trim push pins, what I did was pull back the panel a bit, use a flashlight to see the next push pin, wedge my hand close by, make something like a fist, and turn it. The push pins where I had the most success was where I was close to push pin. Where I was pulling the panel away from the body was where they broke.
  • I started from center, outward to clip back in the top of the cargo trim panel. This helped.
  • For re-assembling the main cargo trim panel, it helps to have someone hold the cargo door half-way. Work and look through the door cup visually to align the push pins. I was able to get all of the pins to pop back in.
Overall it came out great, but it was such a pain. The wrong part number threw me for a loop because I kept getting the wrong part. And getting the push pins was critical because I busted so many.

Let me know if you have questions - glad to answer any, since it was pretty complex. But I'm glad Jody was able to get me started - great stuff! Thank you!
 

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I'm still contemplating putting in a cargo cover. I just don't want things exposed back there. Yes, it'll be stupid expensive, but less than if my work laptop and tool bag gets stolen.

I may adapt the procedures a tad, I'm trying for a less intrusive install. The whole idea of gutting your interior, then replacing the fragile parts that break during disassembly, while probably necessary, still strike me as idiotic for a cargo cover install.

My plan is to get the studs off ebay as that's the only option. Then I'll mark and drill the holes in the panels where required, slightly smaller than the threaded studs on the mounts. I will not remove the panels. Then I'l apply a bead of JB Weld or some such type of epoxy on the backing of the mounting stud and screw it into the panel. I'll let it sit for 24-48 hours or longer to cure before continuing.

My logic is, the cover isn't heavy, I don't plan on and won't be putting anything on top. The adhesive and smaller holes drilled should be enough to "grab" and hold the stud. I'll disregard the the whole cable part of the install, seems pointless to me to have it swing up each time I raise my tailgate. I still have the ability to manually raise it if need be. Not everything has to be automated.

As of now, every time I raise my tailgate to grab my laptop, the thought of what has to be done to have a cargo cover maddens me. I'd take a dozen less of those stupid freakin' Easter eggs for 2 pre-installed studs for the cover. They put more thought in that hiding that stupid crap around the vehicle than the thought of what users may actually NEED in a vehicle. Look, another Jeep grill. Whoop-dee-freaking-do !! That was cool.......on the first day. The ONLY day.
 

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I did contemplate using a small hollow wall anchor (that you'd use for a mirror in drywall) to secure the studs to the other side. You could drill a small hole, add the JB weld and then tighten the anchor for a really secure fit. There's enough clearance for a longer bolt on both sides.

As for the cable, if you don't put a lot in your trunk, I agree. We're often stacking in a stroller or extra bag for the kids and so it's nice for the cover to come up and then come back down (sometimes it just ends up resting on our items, instead of coming all the way down, but that's fine).

Take some pics and let us know how your install goes.
 

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Looks like everyone's cargo cover fits nice and snug. My cover seems to fall off the side panel ledges easily unless it is lined up perfectly. Do I have to take a heat gun to the lips on the side of the cover and bend them out?
 

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Looks like everyone's cargo cover fits nice and snug. My cover seems to fall off the side panel ledges easily unless it is lined up perfectly. Do I have to take a heat gun to the lips on the side of the cover and bend them out?
Well, your issue got me thinking....maybe those "extra" lifting cables I planned to disregard are actually needed to prevent the poor-fitting cargo cover from falling downward ? Do you have the cables installed ?
 

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The lifting cables aren't tensioned to provide support for the cargo cover. Note that there are two variants of the cargo cover. If you get the narrow one it will always not fit the cargo space. I ordered the wrong one and found that to be the case. The correct variant should rest peacefully on the lip in the cargo area.
 

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The lifting cables aren't tensioned to provide support for the cargo cover. Note that there are two variants of the cargo cover. If you get the narrow one it will always not fit the cargo space. I ordered the wrong one and found that to be the case. The correct variant should rest peacefully on the lip in the cargo area.
Sorry Mud, thought I replied to this. Esaleris is right about the lack of support when the liftgate is closed.

After looking at the various styles, I do have the right cover. Ended up making "spacers" from some new heater hose and putting on the pivot posts. This keeps it centered so that it rests solid on both left and right lips of the cargo side panels.
 

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Sorry Mud, thought I replied to this. Esaleris is right about the lack of support when the liftgate is closed.

After looking at the various styles, I do have the right cover. Ended up making "spacers" from some new heater hose and putting on the pivot posts. This keeps it centered so that it rests solid on both left and right lips of the cargo side panels.
Good tip, thanks !

I have all the parts on a Christmas wish list, I'll see what Santa brings.... :)
 

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Hi guys,
FYI for those interested, I was able to install the ebay pivot mounts without removing the side panels....The driver side is accessible through the panel door as shown earlier in this thread. The passenger side, I was able to get to through the blank ~1"x3" panel just below and to the rear of the pivot. Some have a light here but my trailhawk only has a light on the driver side. Made the install SUPER easy. I was happy not to chance breaking any panel clips.

Hope this helps some on here.
 

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Hi Guys,


I know this is an old thread but I'm a new owner. Just picked up a used 2016 Trailhawk. My cargo area has one side curved (driver side) and one straight (passenger side). I see there are only 2 available models for this cover, either just straight 5UX68JXWAA or this style (wide @ seat, narrow @ liftgate) is part #: 6DD80JXWAA. Anyone know the model for this particular one? curved on one side, straight on the other?

Thanks in advance.
 

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As far as I know it is either curved or flat - I would question if a panel was replaced.... I used a small screw in hook on each side to support the cargo cover and 2 round mounts (can't remember exact part name) for the lift support which cost $15 total and about 5 minutes time.
 

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with everyone chiming in on different part numbers. I am having a dilly of a pickle following. could someone give me a part list. and I am sure I can figure out the rest.
 
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