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Here's a couple images to illustrate the issue.



View attachment 2396348325 View attachment 2396348326
Here's a couple images to illustrate the issue.



View attachment 2396348325 View attachment 2396348326
Looks just like the reservoir in my 2015 Latitude w/29k miles- my fan does not always kick on soon enough, so excessive heat in the engine compartment, (sometimes need to switch to a/c or defrost to get the rad fan going).... appears to be leaking from the seam. Have not been driving much lately, but now that I know that I am not the only one seeing this I will investigate further. I'll post any new info I can get.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Looks just like the reservoir in my 2015 Latitude w/29k miles- my fan does not always kick on soon enough, so excessive heat in the engine compartment, (sometimes need to switch to a/c or defrost to get the rad fan going).... appears to be leaking from the seam. Have not been driving much lately, but now that I know that I am not the only one seeing this I will investigate further. I'll post any new info I can get.
If the problem is excessive heat and the fans are not kicking on, maybe you need to switch to a 170° thermostat??? I’m going to monitor my engine temps next time I go out in the Jeep.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
My coolant temperature was mostly at 89°C but climbed as high up as 98°C yesterday when waiting at a red light....

Is that cause for concern?
 

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My coolant temperature was mostly at 89°C but climbed as high up as 98°C yesterday when waiting at a red light....

Is that cause for concern?
I wouldn't be. You have to remember the cooling system is pressurized and has anit-freeze in it that considerably raises the boiling point. Which I think, in Celsius, is something like 145 degrees or so. You can look it up and see, we Yanks still use Fahrenheit and Imperial, my conversion methods are rusty. I know it's common to think of the temperature of boiling water, but that's not what you have in your system; pure water. I hope. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I wouldn't be. You have to remember the cooling system is pressurized and has anit-freeze in it that considerably raises the boiling point. Which I think, in Celsius, is something like 145 degrees or so. You can look it up and see, we Yanks still use Fahrenheit and Imperial, my conversion methods are rusty. I know it's common to think of the temperature of boiling water, but that's not what you have in your system; pure water. I hope. :)
You’re absolutely right that orange stuff the factory in Italy put in couldn’t possibly be water.

As an update, I still have not had any residue formation on the coolant tank after putting in a new cap. Also, the level is higher than it was before and I haven’t added new coolant. I believe the cap was indeed faulty.
 

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Temp conversion: double it and add 30.

Correct method is multiply 9 divide by 5 then add 32.

This is for centigrade to Fahrenheit. 🤗
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Final update:
After driving it everyday for the past couple weeks it is safe to say that a new coolant reservoir cap is a definite fix.
I have not had any loss of coolant or any residue formation in the past 200 miles.
 

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2015 Jeep Renegade, Latitude, 2.4L 4x4, black, 9 speed automatic, MySky
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Glad to hear it’s just the cap and not the entire reservoir itself! Seems a lot easier to maintain down the road.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Glad to hear it’s just the cap and not the entire reservoir itself! Seems a lot easier to maintain down the road.
Yes. It's the easiest fix ever. Although the reservoir itself looks to be easy to replace, with time that lower hose that's made out of plastic should become brittle and I would rather avoid removing it.
 

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I noticed my 2017 would very slowly loose coolant some how. I got to looking closer at it today. It was low so I removed cap for a closer look. The engine hadn't been ran since yesterday so it was cold. When I started to unscrew the cap the pressure released and anti freeze shot up into the tank. Then I noticed a drop of anti freeze appeared on a hose below the tank. I then saw on the back side of tank at the seam a drop coming out on the "notch" (see picture). I don't know why they don't make the tank a solid piece.
If it leaks there, them how does it maintain pressure (which it has)?
There is probably no fixing it. I should just buy a new tank right?
Is there any special thing you need to know to unhook the hoses and replace the tank?
Thanks
2396348942
 

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That is the overflow port.
That is where the cap will release the fluid from the reservoir when it is over filled or the coolant gets too hot (cooling system has too much pressure).
 
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That is the overflow port.
That is where the cap will release the fluid from the reservoir when it is over filled or the coolant gets too hot (cooling system has too much pressure).
So being the max fill line is above it I take it that there is some sort of valve in there. Being my engine was dead cold and it still squirted out of there when I released cap pressure, does that mean mine is defective and needs replaced?
Or is that normal and my slow leak is somewhere else?
Thanks
 

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So being the max fill line is above it I take it that there is some sort of valve in there. Being my engine was dead cold and it still squirted out of there when I released cap pressure, does that mean mine is defective and needs replaced?
Or is that normal and my slow leak is somewhere else?
Thanks
That port acts like a straw. The opening for that port is right at the fill cap.
So the pressure release from the fill cap allows the fluid pass through.
 

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Hmm. Well maybe that isn't the source of the very slow leak. I'm thinking I should use some of that coolant stop leak. It should be small enough to stop it I would think. Maybe wait until before I decide to change coolant and run it a couple weeks before.
 

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I had my oil changed yesterday and the Jeep tech noticed the same crusty crap on my coolant bottle as RenegadeOfFunk's pic. I mean almost exact. I bought a new cap and for safety measures, I also bought a new bottle. Neither was pricey enough to complain about.

Naturally I went with the easiest repair first; replacing the cap. I'll see if it's that simple.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Hmm. Well maybe that isn't the source of the very slow leak. I'm thinking I should use some of that coolant stop leak. It should be small enough to stop it I would think. Maybe wait until before I decide to change coolant and run it a couple weeks before.
Do not use stop leak. That may cause overheating problems in the future. The coolant passages within the engine block are very small in diameter, the stop leak could block these and create engine hotspots.
 

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Do not use stop leak. That may cause overheating problems in the future. The coolant passages within the engine block are very small in diameter, the stop leak could block these and create engine hotspots.
Agreed. ANY of those shortcuts, stop leak for cooling, engine seal products for oil leaks, etc., is not the way to go. As my Dad always said, "FIX the problem. The repair is NEVER in a can on the shelf. They are made for lazy people to fool them and take their money. If the repair was in a can, mechanics would not have a job.".
 
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