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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been working on this for awhile on my days off. I'm finally... almost finished it. All the material was purchased from Home Depot. The paint from Autozone. And I purchased the end caps online.

$350 of material.
1" square tubing.
x20 square tube end caps.
Rebar.
Truck bed liner paint.

Tools
Welder
Angle grinder
Magnetic squaring tool for welding 90* corners
Marker
Measuring tape
Electric sander or sand paper
Drill
File


I paid about half of what if would've cost if I was to purchase a brand name cargo basket and the cross bar.

Yakima legs and round crossbar - $300
or
Yakima Whisbar - $450
+
Yakima Loadwarrior - $300 (44"x39"x6.5")
or
Yakima Megawarrior - $400 (52"x48"x6.5")
=
$600-$850

My custom cargo basket with no cross bar required - $350 (72"x48"x6")

I design the cargo basket to be able to mount onto the stock roof rails without the need of cross bars. I made custom brackets to mount it. Everything is welded together. Not shipped in pieces and then bolted together. It covers the entire roof, from the top of the windshield to the antenna. And rail to rail on the sides. I used rebars every 6" as the floor. To keep cost down and because I couldn't find any diamond mesh metal sheets. I'm planning to ask around the local metal shops in the future. The ribs on the rebars gives a little friction to whatever I want to store up there. I used truck bed liner spray paint for it's durability, scratch resistant, chip resistant, and texture for added friction. The paint and end caps gives it a nice clean look.

The bolts and nuts on the mounts still need to be cut to size and then painted black to match and for rust resistant. I have a piece of ply wood zipped tied to the front as a wind deflector. A wind deflector helps a lot. The first day I had the cargo basket on without a wind deflector sucked. The wind is very loud blowing past the naked bars and it vibrates into the car. I haven't had time to purchase the material to make a proper wind deflector and had some ply wood lying around from another project. My brother needs the cargo basket for this weekend for a camping trip at Pismo Beach.

















Almost ready for some offroad lights and storage for some recovery tools.
 

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Looks good. I wonder why you got so much wind issue without the deflector. I've got a Garvin on my XJ, and it makes no noticeable difference on or off.
 

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Looks good. I wonder why you got so much wind issue without the deflector. I've got a Garvin on my XJ, and it makes no noticeable difference on or off.
Really? I took off the wind fairing on my LoadWarrior recently to spray paint it for a sticker I put on and it was definitely noticeable for those two days.

Like White_THawk mentioned, the basket would make this vibrating drone at higher speeds. I'm curious what other Renegade owners will discover as they install their own.
 

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Really? I took off the wind fairing on my LoadWarrior recently to spray paint it for a sticker I put on and it was definitely noticeable for those two days.

Like White_THawk mentioned, the basket would make this vibrating drone at higher speeds. I'm curious what other Renegade owners will discover as they install their own.


Yeah, my XJ's Garvin Off-Road Rack is pretty beastly. If anything would make wind noise and turbulence, I'd expect that to. It has rounded corners whereas this design is a right angle, wonder if that has something to do with it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
The weight is not too bad. From lifting it, I would guess around 30-40 lbs. That's about the same weight as a brand name cargo basket. From feel it weight less than the wheel/tire combo I've also been playing around with and that's 41 lbs. If I ever take it off, I'll try to remember to weigh it.

As for the front angle, I wished it followed the windshield as well. But I got lazy and didn't want to keep mocking everything up on top of the car. I took some measurements and built it off the car. I wanted as much coverage on the top of the car as I could get, so the front is a bit longer than I would visually like it. The top frame could've been shorter as well, giving the wind deflector a better angle to match the windshield. But as I was noticing other cars on the street, none of this really matter and they all came in different shapes, styles, and angles. The size gives me the most available space and the angle of the wind deflector allows me to store taller cargo. The space below the front of the cargo basket give me room to mount a LED light bar. The cargo basket is 48" wide, so I will need to make some custom brackets or spacers to hold a 50" LED light bar.

The wind against the bars differ from car to car and bar to bar. Round bar and square bars tend to make the most noise. That's why companies make flatter aerodynamic bars to cut through the wind and reduce the noise. The car factor is the design of the front of the car, hood, and angle of windshield. As the wind hits these areas the wind blows over the top of the car at different angles. Since my bars are right on top of the top of the windshield, the wind blows right into the front bars of the cargo basket. By moving the bars lower or further back, you can stay away from the path of the wind and avoid any noise. But you lose cargo space. The bars in the back and on the side don't contribute to much, if any noise at all. But adding a wind deflector you eliminate the path the wind takes "around" the bars. Which is what causes the noise. Try taking a long 1" diameter pipe and swinging it as hard as you can. You can hear the sound of the wind as the pipe pushes through the air. Now speed that up to 70 mph and the noise will increase dramatically. The wind deflector also redirects the air up and over any cargo you are now carrying in the basket. The steeper the angle, the higher the wind blows over the basket. The negative affect you have is the added wind resistant. That means slower acceleration and less fuel economy. You need more power/fuel to push through air at 70 mph with the cargo basket with a wind deflector than without one. Compare a large squared off road Wrangler to a wedged shape super car like a Ferrari.

Getting bigger and heavy tires/wheels will also have a similar effect. The bigger and heavy your tires are, the more power/fuel you will need to rotate them. Compared to something that is smaller and lighter.

Another thing to mention is the corners of the cargo basket. I could've used a pipe bender to round off the corners for a cleaner look. Like most of the manufacturers do, but I realized for real world usage it doesn't make sense for me do to that. I think for the manufacturers, rounding off the corners are for looks and that's what the consumer wants and that's why they do it. Sure the round corners would look better with the shape and curves of the Renegade. But think about what you are going to load into the cargo basket and of those items which will fit a rounded corner better or a sharp 90* corner better. For my needs I went with a 90* sharp corner.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'm planning to get an 50" LED light bar on the front. Smaller LED light bars on the sides and rear. To light up the trail for me and vehicles following me. And for lighting up the area around the Renegade as work lights.

Shovel and axe holders.

Fresh water tank in the back for cleaning, boiling, and the dog. I'm thinking more for washing up after a fishing trip before I have to get back in the new car to drive home. I have an idea in my head, but you guys will have to wait for another day once I try it out.

I was thinking about welding on a spare tire holder up there, but I'm still playing around with the idea. I'm also looking at what I could do with the rear bumper or hitch for a spare tire carrier. If I go with a larger off road tire that won't fit inside the trunk's spare tire area.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Some locktite in those threads will do it some good since with the vibrations going on when driving might loosen the screws. A little loctite goes a long way!
Yup! Already thought of that. Thanks for mentioning it though, for anyone else looking here. Blue loctite to be precise, not red. I was also thinking of using some self locking nuts. The ones with the plastic in them, but that means a trip to the hardware store. I already have some loctite on hand.

I'm not to worry about thieves unbolting the cargo rack and taking off with it. My brother was more worried about it. But I thought about it and I could use a simple gun lock cable to wrap around the roof rails and cargo rack and lock it with a standard lock. Pretty much wrap it around where I have the mounting brackets.

 
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