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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

2015 North 4x4 1.4t 6M about 83k miles.


Noise is heard from 0 to 45 mph, like a screeching noise from under floor passenger side, hard to describe.... sounds like a bearing at first but then goes away in high speed.

When i remove the traction control, still makes sounds, almost worst.

When there is no sound at higher speeds, it will come back if i hit a bump.

driveshaft carrier bearing?
CV axle?
Rear differential?
4wd actuator starting to fail?
flywheel/clutch failure?

please help its getting worse

thanks,

-Vince
 

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A recording would be more useful. One man's screech is another man's scarping noise and such.
But from the passenger floorboard area, and going away at speed, my guesses would be wheel bearing, CV joint (less so), and possibly the power take off/single speed transfer case.

I'd jack up the corner and do the wheel wiggle check and manual spin for wheel bearing, and visually inspect the CV boots for damage because it is easy. If all seems good, the main suspect would be the PTU because 45-50 is where the AWD cuts off, but that's a bit beyond my amateur diagnosis skills, so it'd be real mechanic time.
 

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2015 Trailhawk
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I vote for the carrier bearing. What do I win if I guess correctly? When will the winners be announced?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I vote for the carrier bearing. What do I win if I guess correctly? When will the winners be announced?

i did not think about the Carrier bearing, i will look into it tonight, any obvious signs of wear i should, see? Is it common on the renegades?

Also, the front of the vehicle is very tight, so i guess It's in the transfer case/drivetrain area. Let's hope the PTU is not shot.

If it is the carrier bearing i will order, you a pizza.

cheers,
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi,

so, everything is alright under the car.... everything seems tight when i changed my tires to winter tires...

here's a link to the video, youll hear the sound fade away after put TC back on,

 

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Everything from the ptu to the rear diff isn’t moving unless in 4x mode. Sounds like a hub bearing. Check your front end shields for rubbing too. See if sound gets worse in hard left or right tight circles. Let us know.
 

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2016 Renegade Latitude 4x4 2.4L
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We had the same problem on our 2016; shop replaced the drive shaft and it fixed the problem. Mechanic said it was the connection at the front making the drive shaft move forward/back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hello Guys,

Little update on my case.

So, after inspecting everything myself under the car, the front end etc., everything seems very tight.

Went to local mechanic for his point of view, he himself doesn't know wtf it is because everything is tight in the front, he thinks it might be in the transmission/PTU and the noise is far from a bearing noise or a failed driveshaft noise, so he says. Did not cost me anything at least.

The big difference from this summer when the sound was faint, is that when I turn left when stationary, I hear a crunching sound from the passenger side which leads me to think of a bad CV axle. Might be related?

So, I read in the jeep compass forum that you can remove the 4x4 fuse and disable the AWD system like that, I'll try on the renegade and see if the screeching sound stays.

The jeep is going back to local mechanic this Monday for a 2hr inspection.


I'll keep you guys posted!


-Vince
 

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I too have an appointment for this exaact issue on tuesday. If they tell me something I will let ya know. btw DO NOT PULL THE 30 amp fuze! It just says electronic brake controller but it is tied to everything. You cant even drive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I too have an appointment for this exaact issue on tuesday. If they tell me something I will let ya know. btw DO NOT PULL THE 30 amp fuze! It just says electronic brake controller but it is tied to everything. You cant even drive.
I'm trying to pull the F20 fuse 5 amp
F205 Amp TanElectronic Power Four-Wheel Drive
Local mechanic cancelled my inspection today, since it's winter tires rush. it's rescheduled this friday, by then i will have tried to remove the fuse and i will let you know how it went. I'm also supposed to receive my rear motor mount from deyeme racing today, i will also inspect my passenger and driver side mounts for excessive wear. PTU fluid is also ordered from dealer, I'm going to change it this week. i will let you guys posted on how everything goes. cheers, -Vince
 

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2017 Sport 1.4L Turbo 6MT 4WD
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I'm also supposed to receive my rear motor mount from deyeme racing today
I have all three mounts on order from Deyeme Racing. The top 2 don't look to be too bad but I am still trying to figure out how I am going to get the rear out with the bolt head pointing to the exhaust. I just barely have enough space to get the e-torx socket on, but not a breaker bar or ratchet. Let me know how you get it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I have all three mounts on order from Deyeme Racing. The top 2 don't look to be too bad but I am still trying to figure out how I am going to get the rear out with the bolt head pointing to the exhaust. I just barely have enough space to get the e-torx socket on, but not a breaker bar or ratchet. Let me know how you get it out.
i did not do it yet, But here's a manual from the facebook group , (credits to Josh Palm)

My install instructions for the rear engine mount.
Tools:
Breaker bar
Socket set capable of handling external torx or e-torx (I have the Husky Universal Socket set)
Torque wrench
Get the Jeep up on stands, ramps, whatever you use.
You will need to loosen the exhaust to let it move so you have room to work. I did not need to fully detach it, though you may want to disconnect it from the catalytic converter just to make things a tad easier. See Pictures 3, 4, & 5 to see the bolts (purple circle) you need to remove.
Look at pictures 1 and 2 for a visual of the bolts you are removing that are attached to the transmission bracket and the engine mount.
I highly recommend you remove the bolts in picture 2 first. I was lucky enough that once they were backed out a bit, I was able to use my fingers to get them out. You may have to push up on the engine a bit to keep the engine from pinching the bolts as you turn them. Once these bolts are out, the engine will swing fairly easily.
Next remove the bolts in picture 1 (red circles), starting with the bolt that holds the transmission bracket to the engine mount (picture 1, upper red circle). You will not be able to fully remove this bolt until you remove the other bolt holding the engine mount (picture 1 lower red circle).
When all the bolts are off you will be able to maneuver the engine mount and the transmission bracket out.
Put the new engine mount and the transmission bracket back up.
Make sure to put the bolt that holds the engine mount to the transmission bracket in (picture 1, upper red circle), but don’t thread it on. This bolt needs to go in now. It will hold up the transmission bracket, freeing up a hand, and if you don't put it in now, when you can move things around, there will not be enough room to get it in later because of the exhaust.
I reattached the transmission bracket first (picture 6, green circles). Do yourself a favor and start with the uppermost one and work your way down. You will have to wiggle the engine around to get things to line up. Screw the bolts 95% of the way in as you want to be able to move the engine to line things up.
Install the bolt that goes through the engine mount (picture 6 lower red circle)
Making sure the mount is straight, start tightening all the bolts, with the bolt that holds the engine mount to the transmission bracket being the last one (picture 1, upper red circle).
Torque specs (from the FCA service manual):
Look at picture 6
The three bolts in the green circle get torqued to 30 ft-lbs +45 degrees
The two bolts in the red circles get torqued to 66 ft-lbs +45 degrees
The +45 means that once the torque wrench clicks, you spin the bolt another 45 degrees or an 1/8th of a turn, really not that much more in all honesty.
Re-attach the exhaust mount bolts. Those you just put on until they are tight. Don’t go crazy.
Check the torque on all the bolts after a few drives.
Have fun with the new mount!



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Lordy, just went thru this replacing the tranny and clutch. These instructions and pics are as good as I've seen. I'd try undoing pictures 3,4 and 5 first. That should allow enough flex to shove the pipe to the passenger side (about 1-2 cm) enough to get the rear mount bolt out. JUST BE CAREFUL to not abuse the flex section as its now 7 years old and close to leaking. I found a number of black pinholes in my flex section and got a oem replacement for around $250 USD. Painful to pay, but now she runs whisper quiet. The flex section pictured here looks pretty clean and leak free. Good luck!
 

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2017 Sport 1.4L Turbo 6MT 4WD
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Wow, this mount removal is kicking my butt. I am having a hard time getting enough room to get the breaker bar on the bolts, especially the middle bolt shown on picture 2.
 
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