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I have found the cause of the sound; the propshaft being released from the PTU. I mounted a camera under my car, and went for a drive. You can actually hear the rumbling noise starting right after the propshaft stops. I went for a longer drive, and the noise appears exactly when the propshaft stops every time.

FCA on the other hand means this is a perfectly normal sound from a 4x4 system, even though it's so loud you can actually feel it in the floor of the car... No one has managed to fix the noise them selves? I'm keen to try an oil swap on the rear diff, but it annoys the **** out of me that FCA doesn't fix it - the car is still under warranty.

Video from testdrive.

 

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I don't hear anything from my Renegade Longitude 4x4.

ChuChu are you still driving the
My car is a 2017 500x 1,4l 170hp, 9AT.
Not being a mechanic hardly qualifies me to comment but I wonder if different cars though made by the same manufacturer suffer the exact same fault?

Congratz on the other hand for finding the fault yourself. That is worthy of special praise (y)(y)(y)
 

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Hi puddlesplasher,

In general you can't compare different cars, but the 500x and the Renegade is basically the same car, just different body styling and a few mechanical bits. The Renegade has a better 4x4 software and diffs (on the Trailhawk, I believe?), besides that they are very similar. I actually bought custom made Renegade floor mats for my 500x, they fit perfectly. As there's more dedicated owners of the Renegade than the 500x it's easier to find info here than on 500x forums. :)

In quite sure the noise on my 500x is the exact same many of the Renegade owners experience. Not all 500x's has this noise, the same as with the Renegade. This also backs up the fact that it's not a 'normal noise from the 4wd", as FCA claims.

(Pardon my English, I'm Norwegian so English is not my preferred language. :) )
 

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I have found the cause of the sound; the propshaft being released from the PTU. I mounted a camera under my car, and went for a drive. You can actually hear the rumbling noise starting right after the propshaft stops. I went for a longer drive, and the noise appears exactly when the propshaft stops every time.

FCA on the other hand means this is a perfectly normal sound from a 4x4 system, even though it's so loud you can actually feel it in the floor of the car... No one has managed to fix the noise them selves? I'm keen to try an oil swap on the rear diff, but it annoys the **** out of me that FCA doesn't fix it - the car is still under warranty.

Video from testdrive.

Yes. This is what we have been talking about. Except that the noise most of us have been talking about comes from the rear and is likely related to the rear drive unit as that is the one with the electronically controlled wet clutch pack and THAT is involved with the traction control which also affects it.

You can get a noise from the ptu. And some do. But we have had multiple people get that noise fixed and it seems to be easier for shops to diagnose and r&r fixes it. Which is not the case for the rear drive unit whine.
 

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The saga continues... FCA has spent about 5000USD on my car trying to fix the noise, but it's still there. They have replaced the rear drive module, but the noise is still there. My workshop now says the noise is coming from the PTU, but FCA has gone back to claim that the noise is normal, and that nothing is wrong. Also, the official dealer would not accept my car for a swap because of the noise. The explanation was "we can't sell the car with this noise", even though FCA claims everything is ok. 🤯
 

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Rj: 2020 renegadeTH 120mi on odometer, starting at about 35mph, a buffeting of the air within the cabin, no vibration detected but a buffeting noise like happens sometimes rolling all windows down while driving. it is like the air in the "cabin" has hit a harmonic resonance with the chassis of the rig. rolled down drivers window and it softened the buffeting but remained an issue up to 65mph. parked the car at the dealer, made an appointment, restarted the rig. it worked flawlessly back to home base. I suspect the rotation of the drive shaft hits a harmonic with the chassis, which if this is the case, wrapping the drive shaft with lead solder or some way to "balance" out the frequency. if it returns i plan on doing that, choosing a midpoint, add lead, duct tape over. will keep you all informed of the result.
 

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I was left with the option of living with the noise, engage a lawyer, or get rid of the car. I don't want to waste any more energy on FCA, so I sold the car to a Fiat dealer for a ridiculous price. They washed the car, and sold it within 2 days with 7000USD advance, didn't mention the noise at all. So that's it for me and FCA. I've been driving FCA products for 20 years, but I will never deal with them again. Good luck to anyone trying to fix the noise!
 

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Our new-to-us 2017 6spd will do this occasionally, although it is not that loud. It is always when I'm forced to putter long at a low steady speed in traffic. If I drive it at the speeds I normally would, running it up through the gears with load applied, then removed, then reapplied while shifting it does not do that. I suspect that engaging/disengaging the mechanism may need removal of load to fully operate, but with an auto that doesn't happen.

When it does it if I lock and unlock the 4WD it will go away.
 

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Our Jeep continues to do this, although it's still not loud nor particularly objectionable. It's clearly only when the system fully opens up the wet clutch in the RDM.

I plan to change the RDM fluid shortly, although I had to search for a synthetic 75W-90 GL-5 gear oil without a limited slip modifier. They are not common anymore, and none on store shelves (at least ones that were clear about the modifier). Summit Racing has Mobil Delvac, so I will order that.
 

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I phoned my local Jeep Dealership here in the UK.

No outstanding TSB of any sort on my Jeep , Woo Hoo :D:D:D.

May I take this opportunity to offer my thanks and gratitude to people on the forum that are keeping on top of the Technical Support Bulletins (y)(y)(y)
 

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Band new Trailhawk Renegade with ~ 550 miles. When driving at a steady throttle input at about 30 mph a grinding noise starts and then it appears to go away as you speed up, you can actually feel it, like very faint rumble strips. The noise remains when I put the transmission in neutral and let the car coast. Sometimes it will stick around and give a grind down sound as you stop.

This was posted in another section and I'm thinking it's the same issue;

5 Day old Jeep renegade already having lock issues

The noise does seems to go away when switched into 4WD Lock. I haven't tried, but I will try next time I'm out slipping the car into manual from automatic and see what that does.

Any ideas? I'm thinking it is the transfer case.. Normal or should we take it into the shop?

Thanks!!!
I had the same problem with my 2wd. I put new hub bearings on the front problem fixed. So check them the bearings are proned to failure. Hopefully this helps
 

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Well after a weeks struggle and the Renegade behaving Greenway Dodge Jeep finally ran the NHTSA code that a member posted and low and behold no problems and its 3weeks now kinda happy will see if gas will improve now I am not switching
 

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Well after a weeks struggle and the Renegade behaving Greenway Dodge Jeep finally ran the NHTSA code that a member posted and low and behold no problems and its 3weeks now kinda happy will see if gas will improve now I am not switching
Yeah I had to argue with my dealer over it. They wanted to charge me a $145 diagnostic fee and were telling me if they didn't think it had a problem they would not install the patch. At which point I explained to them with a crowded waiting room that they had in fact replaced the RDU when it was basically new to address it. And have not successfully diagnosed it in the past, and despite telling me there was supposed to be firmware updates for it in the past, have managed to not successfully diagnose it in 5 years of me complaining about it. That I would pay them their $145, but I'm buying a piece of software, not their **** diagnostic skills or opinions on this subject. The TSB applies to my model year and AWD vehicles, which mine is. Install the damn software. The service writer having to hit the next page button past page two of the service records is not diagnostics.

They did, and at least only billed me 30 minutes of diagnostic rate for the flash. Which is still BS as it is higher than their regular labor rate and required zero diagnostics. But $80 for a software flash I have been waiting 5 years for is awful.

Good news is it worked. I've been driving routes that reliably produced the groan/whine for the last two days, and it's gone. I also got the oil burning recall done.

Better news.. I seem to be getting better gas mileage. We'll see if that holds.

But it's been 25 years since I owned a mopar because of their dealer network. I won't live long enough to buy another. I have had my fill of their half assed QC and their dealer network. It's been crap since the mid 80s. It's less crap now, but still crap.
 

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I tried to have this flash done at the local dealer but they claim it doesn't apply to my 2017 1.4L 6spd. Does anyone know if 08-027-21 is for the automatic only? The wording is unclear - it should not matter as the rear wet clutch is the same in both.
 
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