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2015 Jeep Renegade, Latitude, 2.4L 4x4, black, 9 speed automatic, MySky
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all.

I recently got the Rough Country 2in lift and I began working on the passenger side front strut first. All was going well until it was time to put the strut back on and it has an inch gap where it’s not lining back up with the knuckle. Found a thread on here where someone had the same issue and had to unbolt the ball joint and wiggle it in, so I unbolted it but seems impossible. Way too much stress would be needed to do that (both on me and the car). Also, the lower arm seems to be maxed out as well, so it physically can’t travel any more further down. Am I doing something wrong?

2396350244

(Unbolted joint that won’t reach)

2396350245

(Maxed out lower arm)
 

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2017 Jeep Renegade Limited AWD 2.4L
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Tough to tell from the pictures of exactly what’s happening here. Have you tried placing a Jack below the wheel hub (carefully so as to not damage anything) and raising it into position to align it better with the lower control arm?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
This is an interesting install video. They do the back first so you have to go through more then half for the front.Rough Country lift install
Interesting. The same strut appeared to have no issue. Gonna have to really fool around with it and see everything I can do.
 

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2015 Jeep Renegade, Latitude, 2.4L 4x4, black, 9 speed automatic, MySky
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Tough to tell from the pictures of exactly what’s happening here. Have you tried placing a Jack below the wheel hub (carefully so as to not damage anything) and raising it into position to align it better with the lower control arm?
That might be a feasible option. I’ll have to try that in a bit.
 

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You know...while I had my CV axle off the other day and while installing my front strut (on my Yukon) with the lower control arm bracket off the frame I had to use a ratcheting strap in combination with the Jack under the rotor (with a piece of wood) to pull everything back into place.
 

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I wrapped the one end around where the lower control arm meets the knuckle and the other somewhere near the front diff (on the frame).
 

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Of course you wouldn’t want to pull the LCA since it’s not connected to the knuckle. ;) I bet you’d be able to find a good spot though. Maybe even those LCA bolt holes?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
2396350257

Heres where I am now. Both front sides are the same way, where the strut extends too far to bolt to the knuckle. So, I unbolt the hub from the lower control arm and I can now bolt the strut to the hub. However, now I can’t get the lower control arm to meet with the ball joint. The lower control arm can’t go down any further, it’s maxed out. You also can’t tell from the picture, but that plate needs to go inside the lower control arm, not just on the bottom.
 

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Wait.... that might not work since the suspension is setup a bit different than my Yukon.
Can you take a picture of the whole view perhaps?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Gotchya. What if you remove the LCA from the frame. Then attach the LCA to the ball joint first? Then raise the hub to compress the strut and place the LCA back into the bolts on the frame? Would that work?
That might work. I was thinking about that earlier but didn’t know if I would have issues with getting it back into the frame. I guess I won’t really know how feasible that is until I take out the LCA and get a real sense of how much room I have to work with.
 

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So I finally rewatched that video (watched it along time ago) and it appears they don’t remove the lower control arm bolts like you did. With that said, I believe you will have to remove the LCA from the frame at this point and attach it at the hub first and attach it in the frame location next (it’s going to be hard to get it back in). This is where a ratcheting strap (to pull hub assembly towards frame) and a floor Jack (to compress the spring) will come in handy. Although, your strut is already attached, so maybe all you’ll need is a pry bar and
long, large screwdriver to fit the LCA back into the position at the frame.

Heres a look when I had my LCA detached from the frame (Yukon)...

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I was replacing the axle tube, so I had the CV axle disconnected (and supported) off to the side at the time. The Jack and Strap method worked wonders for me.

I’m sure you’ll get it eventually by any means necessary, but good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
UPDATE:

Took all day and many breaks but it’s finally done. Only took 2 jacks, a winch, tow chain, 2 flathead screwdrivers, and two humans.

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May God have mercy for others to not have to go through what we went through.
 

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UPDATE:

Took all day and many breaks but it’s finally done. Only took 2 jacks, a winch, tow chain, 2 flathead screwdrivers, and two humans.

View attachment 2396350289

May God have mercy for others to not have to go through what we went through.
That’s some serious equipment there!

What exactly did you do so I (and others of course ;) ) know what to do when I (we) install a lift in the future. Any other tips for us?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
That’s some serious equipment there!

What exactly did you do so I (and others of course ;) ) know what to do when I (we) install a lift in the future. Any other tips for us?
Thank you for all your support and frequent monitoring of this thread throughout this whole fiasco.

I ended up having to jack up the hub to the LCA, then sliding whatever of the ball joint bracket you could into the LCA. While still jacked up, I then pulled the rest in by wrapping a strap around the ball joint and winching it in towards the car. I eventually got one of the holes to line up and with a screwdriver was able to get a bolt through. After that, it was just some manipulation to get the rest in. All in all it took about 30 minutes, just ended up taking 3 days of head scratching to figure out what to do (and a couple of harbor freight trips).
 
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