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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As I mentioned before, the Connect radio cuts off if it doesn't sense a load on the speaker wires. If you have the wires cut in order to feed a DSP or AMP, it will shut the signal off.

Today I worked around that problem. I used 5w 47ohm resistors in parallel with the speaker wires going into the DSP. The DSP feeds the amp and the amp feeds my aftermarket front speakers. Once I get it all cleaned up, I'll post more pics.

But basically, I tricked the system! Wooohooooo! Aftermarket audio glory!
 

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As I mentioned before, the Connect radio cuts off if it doesn't sense a load on the speaker wires. If you have the wires cut in order to feed a DSP or AMP, it will shut the signal off.

Today I worked around that problem. I used 5w 47ohm resistors in parallel with the speaker wires going into the DSP. The DSP feeds the amp and the amp feeds my aftermarket front speakers. Once I get it all cleaned up, I'll post more pics.

But basically, I tricked the system! Wooohooooo! Aftermarket audio glory!
Gatorade, I assume that might also allow one to add a subwoofer? I followed your plan and replaced the dash and front door speakers, and while that actually increased the bass from almost none to decent, those 6x9 cannot hit much below 80hz, I would guess.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Gatorade, I assume that might also allow one to add a subwoofer? I followed your plan and replaced the dash and front door speakers, and while that actually increased the bass from almost none to decent, those 6x9 cannot hit much below 80hz, I would guess.
You can add a subwoofer without having to mess with the resistors. I actually just had a subwoofer setup while I was waiting for the resistors to come in. Just tap the rear speaker wires with vampire taps and run those to a line out converter or something similar to your amp. Since the radio can sense the speaker load, it doesn't cut off.
 

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Since you are essentially running those speakers in parallel, this would increase the load on the Amp, correct (sorry, wasn't paying attention that day in college physics...and that was 25 yr ago!)? I assume you would need a opwered subwoofer or a seperate amp with the sub...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Since you are essentially running those speakers in parallel, this would increase the load on the Amp, correct (sorry, wasn't paying attention that day in college physics...and that was 25 yr ago!)? I assume you would need a opwered subwoofer or a seperate amp with the sub...
Yes, sorry I wasnt clear. You need an amp,to,power that subwoofer.
 

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Similar Solution With PAC line Converter

Thread seems to be a little old but here is what I found.

I wanted to keep the stock 5.0 Radio for the uConnect features and was reading this post and did some research. I found the PAC LOCPRO-4 Channel Converter. It basically has the resistors integrated. I will be doing my install this weekend. I will let you know if it works. Here is the link at best buy

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/pac-loc...er-black/4290905.p?id=bb4290905&skuId=4290905

You can find it cheaper at Amazon but the description doesn't mention the resistors.
 

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I am using the stock uc5.0 head with upgraded 6 speaker system, amp, subwoofer and surround sound. The dash speakers are powered by the head front while the rear is split at line level for the dsp and subwoofer. A four channel amp powers the four door speakers from the dsp surround channels. A powered subwoofer is under the passenger seat. The dsp is controlled by remote. I have photos of placement of the dsp behind the dash and above the glove box at http://pub.lavachamber.com/photos/tech/jeep-renegade/?drawer2=renegade*Under dash DSP I will have more photos and details at a later date.
 

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Behind dash amp install with photos

I was able to install a seperate amp after the UC 5.0 head to power the door speakers from the rear speaker channels. There is room for a compact amp behind the climate controls below the radio.

I found that the head mute (with missing speaker icon on instrument display) can be disabled with only a 100 ohm 1/4 watt resistor across the +/- for disconnected speaker. Very little impedance needed. In my case, fronts continued to work with rears muted before resistors installed.

There is a terminal (+ 30 44) on the back of the UC 5.0 that has +12 when radio is on, that can be used to signal another device to turn on or signal or power multiple devices via a relay.

The dash speaker wires branch off the front channels somewhere well beyond the head unit terminal block, but rewiring them is easy, and provides for 6 discrete speaker connections at the dash.

I have shared some photos with descriptions here - http://pub.lavachamber.com/photos/tech/jeep-renegade/?drawer2=renegade*Behind dash amplifier
 

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Hi everyone..i am a new user here. As per my knowledge you should allow one to add a subwoofer. I understood your plan and replaced the dash and front door speakers, and while that actually increased the bass from almost none to decent, those 6x9 cannot hit much below 80hz.
 
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