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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys I amin the middle of installing a viofo t130 in our 21 renegade islander. I am using there hk4 hardwire kit and fuse taps so I don't have to splice into any factory wires. I plan to use fuse f94 for the accessory wire on the hk4 but which fuse on the under dash panel is a constant? I was thinking f53 which is for starter device/keyless enter and go/ supply ipc? Open to all suggestions. Thanks
 

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I'd use the 12V cigar lighter circuit and stay clear of any of the more sensitive CANBus connected things like Enter 'n Go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The wireing harness is a two wire setup because of parking mode so it need a 12v constant and a 12v acc connection. I assumed the cigar lighter was not a constant correct?
 

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If you just need a constant why not go direct from the battery with an inline fuse?

Granted it’s a bit more work but like Nev said, I’d try and steer clear of the canbus as these little Jeeps are a bit finicky when it comes to their electronics.
 

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I just hardwired my Cobra Road Scout to my 2020 Renegade yesterday, so here's what I did and it worked fine. Presumably your dash cam has 2 wires (positive and negative). Take out the head unit/radio to get access to the wiring harness its connected to. Your going to want to splice the positive wire into the red wire (red is accessory on mine this will allow the device to turn on and off with the car), and the negative wire to the black wire (black is ground).

If you want it on all the time (I dont know why you would but..) you would connect the positive wire to the yellow wire instead of red (yellow wire is 12v)
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Is the fuse move to make the rear 12V socket live all the time still working on the MY22 models?

If so, make the rear socket permanent 12V and piggy back off that?
 

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The electronics and wiring on these Jeeps are more sensitive than a teenage girl going through her first breakup. I'd be leery fuse tapping anything. I'd go the safest route; run your own wire to the battery and inline fuse it. The days of yore of working on/in the wiring harness have gone the way of the dodo. We no longer have wiring harnesses, we have a virtual circulatory system keeping this vehicle alive. Cut/tap a vein and it dies.

The most mundane items now report over the canbus system. You may find the "sweet spot" to fuse tap, then a day or two later your Jeep is throwing all sorts of warnings and you think you have issues. So you chase them to find nothing. You scratch your head wondering why you are getting an ABS warning or some such on your dash. Can't be your fuse tap because you tapped into the daytime driving light fuse, totally unrelated. Or so you thought. You do a "let's see" and pull your fuse tap. Warnings disappear. Try another location. Now you got different warnings flashing.

You end up consoling yourself by saying, "I really didn't need this dash cam anyways." and return everything to stock, dash cam goes in the garage.
 

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I don't know much about the Renegade but I put backup cameras on Jeep Wranglers and Ram trucks and I tapped into the tail light. Put it in reverse, camera comes on. Wouldn't the same thing work on the headlight fuse? Turn on headlights, camera comes on?
 

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I went this route. No frills, but I love the OEM look and ease of install.

 

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Man, I am so glad you found that item. It pained my to read all of the many ways you almost used to void your warrantee or jack your NEW RIDE up.
YES, THE OEM CONNECTION IS THE WAY TO GO! That's exactly what I did. I believe you may have more than one fuse box. If you do, check the cargo area. You can use the aux or stereo, which depending upon your fuse configuration, might be located there. It's easier access and you can quickly dismantle it before your take it in for servicing.

Regarding working within the fuse boxes, see my post about a certain tool you'll need to change the fuses, If your fuse box is anything like the renegade whose fuse box is located at the center of the 7th level of Dante's Inferno with an opening the size of a chihuahua's face to work within, after dismantling the side piece, (which is easy, but be gentle, it's plastic) and the bottom wheel cover which has 3 or 4 screws. Don't over tighten them. Purchase long surgical forceps, found on Amazon for like $6-$10+. It will allow you to access, pull and reinsert fuses with ease without trying to stuff your body inside that chihuahua face sized hole while attempting to reach that @$^○□¿☆₩$^& box. Cheerio.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for all the replies everyone. The install has been completed thanks to all the tips. The fuse box access was definitely a major pain in the back side but I ordered a 3 set of 12" long reach pliers which helped a lot.

I ended up tapping into f33 for the constant power and f94 for switched acc power. F33 is just for the power windows and f94 was the 12v outlet. So far all is working fine with no issues or errors.
 

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Thanks for all the replies everyone. The install has been completed thanks to all the tips. The fuse box access was definitely a major pain in the back side but I ordered a 3 set of 12" long reach pliers which helped a lot.

I ended up tapping into f33 for the constant power and f94 for switched acc power. F33 is just for the power windows and f94 was the 12v outlet. So far all is working fine with no issues or errors.
I'm so freaking delighted to hear this, Mate! I love that you ordered the long reach pliers I suggested. Big help, right? You just made my day, Brother! I'm glad it's helping folks out cuz that fkn set up for the main fuse box is insane. Woot!! Enjoy!
 
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