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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Note - This project is not finished but making good progress

I am not sure the other years this will work but the 2022s don't seem to have an option for LED Headlights when ordered or at least that is what I have read. My Latitude came with the weak incandescent headlights. I purchased a left and right OEM headlight from Ebay and have installed them on my Renegade.

The low beams work as intended without programming but the high beams only light the top half of the light.. Also the daylight running lights or Halos don't work because the original light only required 3 wires. To get the daylight running lights to work I believe I need to switch the two wires that run the lower daylight running lights up to the pins for the Halo wiring.

Here is a before picture of my original lights before I started.
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
On my 2022 their are 4 large clips and 4 small clips that need removed from the top part of the grill. On earlier models these were like a T55 screw.

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Once those are removed turn your wheel left or right depending on the side you are on and remove 2 screws from inside the wheel well and one at the bottom side under the wheel well to pull back the inner fender like so. Even if you are not worried about not breaking clips, this has to be done for when you remove the front end fascia.

Here is the top screw and one under it and if you follow the plastic down there is one more same size screw under the vehicle.
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Once you remove the screws you can get behind the inner fender.
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Some people take the time to squeeze the clips on the inside to insure they do not bust them on the fender flare we are about to partially remove but I just used a pry tool to pry it loose. I did bust a couple of clips, but most of them came out without breaking.

If you are worried about breaking them you can see the green ones from inside the last picture.

And if you remove this clip you can get to the inside of the fender by bending back the rubber piece from the inside of the engine compartment. Here is that clip. I did not remove mine but you can get your hand behind the rubber piece if you bend towards the hood hinges.
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I used a pry tool to pry the fender flare out from within the fender liner area like so. You kind of have to put the pry tool between the grey plastic and the colored bumper and pry.
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It will pop out like this exposing two screws. This requires a 7 mm socket to take those two scews out. Do that on both sides. You only need to remove the two screws that are about even with the bumper line behind here.
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Here is a picture of the fender flare loose. I only pry it enough to get to the 2 bolts. You do not have to take the whole fender flare off.
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The next part I didn't take a picture of and didn't realize it until I went to post it. You pull pretty hard along both bumper seams at the fender and it will pull out of a groove. Also there are two metal clips by the headlight housing that will come loose. Once you have them loose the bumper will come off. Be careful cause the DRL, front marker cables are too short to hit the ground so you will need to disconnect those before you sit it down or put something under your bumper for it to rest on.

Its a bad photo cause I zoomed in but this is the groove you will be pulling the bumper from out of

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Once you get the bumper loose you will need to unhook both drl bulbs from the bumper and a few connectors on the driver side of the vehicle. There are like 4 connectors in all on the right side.

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Once you pull the bumper, You will be able pull the headlights out from the front. All 3 bolts on each are from inside the engine compartment but you can't remove them without the grill removed.

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Here are the 3 bolt locations that need removed. They are inside the engine compartment. The top two are easy to get to. The bottom one not so much. A normal ratchet and socket will not be able to get into the location. I have circled the 3 screw locations from the backside of the light. The screws are T27
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To get the bottom one I had to use this tool. It is a cheap bit ratchet.
This is the set that had the ratchet I used

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So after the swap the Halo rings are still not lit up. I found that the old light had 3 wires and the new light has 5 pins. So I will need to run the DRL wires up to the headlight to get them going. Here are the two connectors.

The old with 3 pins
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The new that has 7 pins. I am trying to find out what the other wires do since it has 4 more pins and not just two.

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The high beams do not work correctly. They only light the bottom half of the light which reflect to be the top half of the beam. The bottom half is dark even though it looks lit. I have a phone that takes great night photos and it looks like it is lit up. The only thing lit is the top part that looks brighter.
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
So if I hold the high beams like I am flashing my lights both low and high turn on and the lights look great. Here it is. I think programming them as LED in the BCM will fix this.

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The high beams do not work correctly. They only light the bottom half of the light which reflect to be the top half of the beam. The bottom half is dark even though it looks lit. I have a phone that takes great night photos and it looks like it is lit up. The only thing lit is the top part that looks brighter.
Yup. I've never really looked to see how the low- and high-beams are formed in my LED headlights. But you're correct.

For those that might not be familiar with the current LED headlights, it's really hard to tell what's going on from a photo looking at the lights when they're on, in any mode. Here's what mine look like, off:
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There are three sectons of the light. When the headlight is on, the LED bulb behind the central round lens lights up, of course; as well as the entire horizontal rectangle/trapezoid across the center -- I think that's to throw light left and right:
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Also on all the time, specifically on low beam, is the upper part -- I assume through some kind of shutter:
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As Ericcloe indicates, that portion of the beam is reflected downward onto the road surface; while the sharp horizontal cut-off is maintained from the central part of the light. Those two parts together form the low beam.

When the high beam is switched on (or when the flash-to-pass is activated), the lower part is also on, along with the other two parts:
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That reflects light straight ahead for the high beam, overriding the horizontal cut-off. Note the roadway is still illuminated, which results in a very nice overall beam.

So, Ericcloe, I hope you're right -- that activating the BCM for LED headlights will enable the high beams properly...
 
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