So quick question for those of you that installed LED DRLs and had to install load resistors/equalizers because they won't shut off right away, where we're you able to mount the actual resistor to? It seems the wires are kind of short & the instruction says it has to be mounted to a metal surface (in my case with self tapping metal screws) - i've tried looking/feeling through the 'access' door of the fender but can't find a solid spot...i'm just trying to avoid taking off my bumper if I can lol maybe just the whole fender liner if i have too...but do i have to remove my bumper? I would appreciate any help & i've tried searching on this topic already -
yeah that's my problem i've already bought, installed these bulbs for a few months now and i really like the brightness because it matches my headlights > i was hoping i didn't have to buy a whole new set of bulbs lol again, not the end of the world.....and since i pulse bought the equalizer i said why the hell not lol i'm not quite ready to through in the towel
Hello all Anyone changed the bulbs in the daytime running lights to led as I think the normal bulbs don't look good and as my renegades fab want to do something about it. If so what type do I need please? Also where's best place get mud flaps and fitted floor mats from ? Cheers in advance...
Quick question Were these the ijdm toy bulbs? Im reading so many mixed reviews - not sure what is real and what is not - main complaint is they go out after a few months of use - how long did these bulbs last? - Did they burn out easy? Canbus friendly? lol Thx Pudz sorry so many questions lol
How about extending the length of the original wires on the resistors using in line crimp connectors with attached heat shrink/adhesive?
That way you can place the resistor anywhere you need it to be.
Just cut/drill a tiny wee notch in the access panel to allow the extra wire to lie to the side of the "door". Maybe drill a small hole and pass a wire through it?
How about extending the length of the original wires on the resistors using in line crimp connectors with attached heat shrink/adhesive?
That way you can place the resistor anywhere you need it to be.
Just cut/drill a tiny wee notch in the access panel to allow the extra wire to lie to the side of the "door". Maybe drill a small hole and pass a wire through it?
To be honest I changed back to the normal bulbs and that was under 1 year.
The LED Drls, canbus error free look absolutely spectacular when new (Ebay) but as I had been launching and recovering my boat from sea water I do think that is where they became damaged.
I presumed that salt water was entering the "doors" at the front wheels. Especially if I was to quickly ford a little gully between the sand bars. Perhaps that's why the TH can ford 19" and the Longitude only 12" thereabouts.
Anyway, the DRLs started flickering initially and the dash would tell me I had an error. Then when it fixed itself I again presumed they had dried out.
The flickering was now happening on a regular basis and I don't mean flickering like you read on some posts. This DRL was sending out Morse Code in a rapid fashion. Then they died altogether.
Upon removal and inspection both DRLs were BURNED OUT and you could clearly see the blackened charring on the small motherboard that the LEDS are mounted on. I am positive I created a post or at least replied to a post with the picture uploaded to the forum.
Now I have had a better idea and that is to keep the original DRLs as ordinary filament bulbs and toying with the idea of fitting low wattage, flush mounted, LED square lights to the bumper as DRLS. I have to find out the legality of it with UK Law
Wow thank you for the honest review, i really appreciate that - i was under the impression that the drl housing was water tight - im surprised any water was able to seep in at all....i'll keep all the information you shared with my never-ending quest for the perfect "LED light bulb" LOL cheers!
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