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I just got my 2015 2.4 Renegade used, in the back where u put the Tage on there are only 2 holes for screws not 4 to keep it steady and as this one runs a little rougher than others it rattles, has anyone figured out a way to fix that issue? Not a big deal but would like to fix it if I could.
 

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I went and purchased silicone tag 'bumpers'. They wrap around and behind the plate because every time I opened/closed the lift gate it would just make this god awful claaaannnng
 

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I just got my 2015 2.4 Renegade used, in the back where u put the Tage on there are only 2 holes for screws not 4 to keep it steady and as this one runs a little rougher than others it rattles, has anyone figured out a way to fix that issue? Not a big deal but would like to fix it if I could.
Welcome!

You have to remember, the Renegade was designed for the European market, where license plates are much narrower and longer than ours. If they made them with four threaded holes that would fit our license plates, the bottom two holes would show under their plates. See post #6 and afterwards here:

Rear Rattle Fix | Jeep Renegade Forum

I went and purchased silicone tag 'bumpers'. They wrap around and behind the plate because every time I opened/closed the lift gate it would just make this god awful claaaannnng
Out of curiosity, what exactly did you buy? Because I haven't gotten around to fixing this on my Trailhawk...
 

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and enjoy the forum!

I got from the auto parts store it is a plate kit it has a sheet of 1/4 rubber with sticky on one side and smooth on the other. Just cut out the pieces and sizes you need stick it on the Jeep and no more rattle.
 

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Oh, OK. So it's an entire silicone frame.

Not sure that would work in my case, since I've got these black nylon screws on the bottom just to cover the pre-drilled holes; they don't screw into anything, and just have nylon nuts on the back.
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They hit against the small round adhesive pads that came on the Jeep, and those pads are getting squished.
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On the other hand, the clattering I'm getting is from the hard plastic frame vibrating against the license plate, since the frame and plate aren't fastened on the bottom.. So maybe that silicone frame from Amazon would work. I'll give it a try.

Thanks!
 

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That might work. Looks like the bottom Euro sockets (yellow arrows) on the Renegade line up with the top ones; just for narrower plates:
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So you'd have to, in order, 1) use the top holes (red arrow) to fasten the plate through the mount to the Renegade; 2) use the vertical slots (red arrow) to fasten the mount to the Renegade, bending the plate carefully to access the bolt; then 3) somehow get to the bottom holes (blue arrow) to fasten the plate just to the mount.
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Seems like that might be difficult to do; since no matter what order you do it in, one pair of bolts/screws would be really hard to access... :unsure:
 

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i ended up stuffing some foam insulation under mine. Tried attaching the plate and frame with screws and silicone but that didnt last long. The easy low budget hack worked best....go figure
 

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So because I just love to throw money at problems ;) , I ordered both the silicone frame that Usafle suggested in Post #6,and the bracket that Ops suggested in Post #9.

First I tried the silicone frame.
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It fit around the plate, and everything attached to the top sockets. The silicone did muffle things a bit when I'd close the liftgate, but everything did still vibrate.

So then I tried the bracket. As I feared, after playing around with it for an hour or two, I just couldn't get it to work either.

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I was able to get screws fastened into the lower Euro sockets through the yellow slots, and the license plate itself fastened to the upper sockets through the red holes. But I couldn't figure out how to fasten the bottom holes in the plate through the blue holes -- I couldn't get a screw threaded into the blue holes without risking scratching the liftgate on the other side; and I couldn't fit a nut onto a bolt there without risking the same thing. And without anchoring the plate to those bottom yellow holes, there's no advantage to the bracket. Good idea, though!

So what I finally did was take the silicone frame, and sandwich it under the plate with my existing thin black steel frame on top. The plate is attached to the top sockets with black steel screws; and I'm still using the nylon nuts and bolts just to visually hide the bottom holes in the plate.

Between the stiffness of the metal frame and the vibration absorption of the silicone frame, everything is solid and quiet when I close the liftgate -- no vibration. Nice and solid.

Here's what the whole stack looks like -- you can see the grey silicone frame behind the plate, with the steel frame in front of it:
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I'm sure the other methods (velcro, silicone pads) would work too, but this works for me...
 
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