[tutone]

I bought my 2016 1.4t manual tranny with 6k on and noise in passenger front. Finally took it in and they replaced 68304339AA (strut), 68304232AA (bearing), 68296586AA (stud), and 68329362AA (isolator). It took care of all of the noises, including a subtle howl when backing up hills.

 

[Nester31]

For those with motor mount issue, have you seen these: https://www.deyemeracing.com/Shop_Products.aspx#Jeep+Renegade

 

[Darb1177]

Anyone had any of these replaced on an out of warranty renegade? What was the cost for the labor?

 

[uniteam]

This morning I installed it with a huge difference with the results, vibration issue is gone. It has a very little vibration that I think is the LH motor mount but is nothing compared with the issue before the RH swap.

I failed with my visual inspection because the motor mount was worse than what I saw. The original design had a mark on the rubber that apparently separated with time.

I will leave some pictures. I hope this helps to other people.

I'm thinking if I order the other one at a time

Nice work!

My '16 TH came with the newer design mount.

Just curious about what's involved to swap one out. It seems easily accessible, but do you need to support the motor in some way during the process?

Thank you.

It's good that you did not have to deal with the trash version that comes with our '16 LTD.

Yes, it's not a complicated process, the most entertaining part was finding a safe surface to hold the motor on the right side, since most of that side is covered by the plastic oil pan.

I used 2 hydraulic jacks with a small piece of wood between the engine and jack to not damage anything, one used as a support on the left side (transmission) and the other to lift and level the right side. I choice from the front bracket that holds the A / C compressor (as close as possible to the engine side) . I did not exert much pressure, just enough to hold the engine while changing the motor mount).

Bolts are STAR type, I used a MULTI SPLINE craftsman die 7/16 without problems. The torque specs are 44 ft.lbs for frame side bolts and 66 for the engine side. 45°.

The other trick is the motor mount alignment on installation , mopar recommends this alignment tool but I used some screwdrivers as a guide (be careful you can damage hole threads) putting one bolt at time starting with corners.


Well, that was my process. I hope it works for someone else.


BTW, sorry for my English, is not my first language.

This past weekend I installed the other engine mount (LH) 68363756AA



Mopar are changing the part# a lot, I guess for redesign. I was lucky I didn't buy it before.
I took some pictures to shows the difference with the OEM.




The new version is bigger, has more rubber.

The installation process was similar, the difference was removing the battery and its tray.




The old mount was weak with some movement with my hands.

The result was successes.

I installed too the lower mount, but it was not necessary it was in good condition. I had already bought it just in case

Part# 68258599AA




I hope this can help someone else

 

[ddog]

Vibration in Idle/Motor Mounts

Mine have gone out at 45k. I was told by the dealer that this is an issue for Renegades and Fiats. It's a $600 job...... Damn

 

[pinkleyjosh13]

Mine went out at 70k, paid the eight hundred for the repair/replacement. Now at 75k I have the same noise with the new mount. Very upset with my local dealerships because they want 140$ just to look at a mount that was put in a month ago.

 

[RenegadeOfFunk]

Mine went out at 27k miles. Had the dealership replace all three as well as the transmission mount under warranty.

 

[kstrauss]

My local dealer told me the RH mount is 'leaking'. Does this make sense?
(2015 Trailhawk, 65k miles)
Now conveniently out of warranty - the dealer is quoting $582 for the job. 1.5 hours labor (at 153 an hour)

To me this seems ridiculously high.

Comments welcome.

 

[raz-0]

My local dealer told me the RH mount is 'leaking'. Does this make sense?
(2015 Trailhawk, 65k miles)
Now conveniently out of warranty - the dealer is quoting $582 for the job. 1.5 hours labor (at 153 an hour)

To me this seems ridiculously high.

Comments welcome.

That seems high to me too. They said $229.50 for labor, that means they are charging $352.5 for the mount. Which I can snag for $135 if I shop around, but based on my looking I would suspect dealer price at an average dealer would be between $180 and $200.

That price is closer to realistic if they are replacing the left mount as well preemptively.

 

[RenegadeOfFunk]

That seems high to me too. They said $229.50 for labor, that means they are charging $352.5 for the mount. Which I can snag for $135 if I shop around, but based on my looking I would suspect dealer price at an average dealer would be between $180 and $200.

That price is closer to realistic if they are replacing the left mount as well preemptively.

They probably are. My dealer only found the passenger side mount was bad, but they were reluctant to just let me replace only the one mount. They heavily suggested all three, which I agree with. It's just like suspension problems. When one mount goes bad, the others will then bear more stress than previously, thus they are likely to go bad as well soon enough.

Luckily, the warranty covered my mounts.

 

[Planet]

motor mounts

All three mounts need to be replaced on my 2015 with 65000 miles. out of warranty costing me 1000.

 

[thegreenman.us]

All three mounts need to be replaced on my 2015 with 65000 miles. out of warranty costing me 1000.

I had all three replaced by the seller (Carmax) when I bought my 2016 last December. It only had 26k miles on it. New mounts are sturdier and shouldn't need replacement again.

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

 

[kstrauss]

Clarification Requested - Engine & Trans mount

This past weekend I installed the other engine mount (LH) 68363756AA

View attachment 2396342957

Mopar are changing the part# a lot, I guess for redesign. I was lucky I didn't buy it before.
I took some pictures to shows the difference with the OEM.

View attachment 2396342963
View attachment 2396342965 View attachment 2396342967

The new version is bigger, has more rubber.

The installation process was similar, the difference was removing the battery and its tray.

View attachment 2396342955
View attachment 2396342959 View attachment 2396342961 View attachment 2396342969 View attachment 2396342971

The old mount was weak with some movement with my hands.

The result was successes.

I installed too the lower mount, but it was not necessary it was in good condition. I had already bought it just in case

Part# 68258599AA

View attachment 2396342975


I hope this can help someone else

CLARIFICATION REQUESTED: When I look up the LH Engine Mount (68363756AA) the MOPAR parts site shows it listed two places: ENGINE MOUNT and TRANSMISSION MOUNT. To reduce this annoying vibration problem, does this one particular transmission mount need to be replaced as well?

Would someone be so kind as to post ALL part numbers for items to be replaced?

Thank you

 

[raz-0]

CLARIFICATION REQUESTED: When I look up the LH Engine Mount (68363756AA) the MOPAR parts site shows it listed two places: ENGINE MOUNT and TRANSMISSION MOUNT. To reduce this annoying vibration problem, does this one particular transmission mount need to be replaced as well?

Would someone be so kind as to post ALL part numbers for items to be replaced?

Thank you

68258599AA is the rear motor mount. It is mounted to the transmission. The transmission and motor are attached to each other.
68363756AA is the driver side mount under the battery.
68363755AA is the passenger side mount under the airbox.

 

[kstrauss]

Thanks

68258599AA is the rear motor mount. It is mounted to the transmission. The transmission and motor are attached to each other.
68363756AA is the driver side mount under the battery.
68363755AA is the passenger side mount under the airbox.

So the recommendation then is to replace all three?

 

[raz-0]

So the recommendation then is to replace all three?

Most dealerships will replace all three if they are replacing one because it makes them more money, doesn't take them a huge amount more time, and you won't come back immediately because one of the old ones was also messed up.

Most people DIYng it replaced the right one because it was obviously torn and had been redesigned. Then they redesigned the left one too. So now most will replace both the left and right, but sometimes not the rear. Usually because it passes visual inspection and also it has not been redesigned. It's also more of a pain to change as you have to get you and whatever is supporting the engine under there to work on it.

If you are getting an independent mechanic to swap them in, they have a lift, fancy hoists and jacks to deal with the engine, and experience. I'd drop the extra $40+ bucks for the third mount and have them swap it. DIY? I'd visually inspect it for damage and make a call.

 

[Pavel Bushovskiy]

I replaced mine at 40k miles. No annoying vibration after.