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Discussion Starter #1
I am currently trying to rule out some issues with my suspension, knocking, clunking noises that seem happen with up and down movement. I have already replaced the sway bar links, which seemed to take the noise away for a few weeks but now it has returned worse than before. Now I am wanting to replace my lower front ball joints but I cannot find anything on how to do it yourself. Has anyone ever done this or know how to do this? Thank you!
 

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I am currently trying to rule out some issues with my suspension, knocking, clunking noises that seem happen with up and down movement. I have already replaced the sway bar links, which seemed to take the noise away for a few weeks but now it has returned worse than before. Now I am wanting to replace my lower front ball joints but I cannot find anything on how to do it yourself. Has anyone ever done this or know how to do this? Thank you!
I'm having the same issue on the rear passenger side, but have yet to determine the cause. End links looked just fine on mine, I was debating on if I have a bad strut or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Have you double checked to be sure the nuts on the sway bar links didn't loose up?
I have checked the sway bar links and everything looks good and tight. I really think it could be the ball joints, and would really like to rule it out by replacing them before I move on to something else if it's not the issue. I just need instructions on how to do so before I can proceed. Not a thing about how to replace them anywhere online.
 

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Do you think there is something special about the Renegade ball joints that require unique instructions? I doubt it.
 

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I am currently trying to rule out some issues with my suspension, knocking, clunking noises that seem happen with up and down movement. I have already replaced the sway bar links, which seemed to take the noise away for a few weeks but now it has returned worse than before. Now I am wanting to replace my lower front ball joints but I cannot find anything on how to do it yourself. Has anyone ever done this or know how to do this? Thank you!
Something else to look at, the bearing on top of the strut. If they start to go bad, they will make noise and pop also.

Ball joints require special tools to remove them from the lower control arm.
Some part store have a 'Loan-a-tool' program where you can borrow the ball joint tool kit.

YouTube will have a video on how to do this.
It may be generic video, but the process is usually the same.
 
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I lied, but not on purpose.
The lower ball joints on a Renegade do not require any special tools. stupid simple repair (as far as ball joints go).

IF my memory serves me:

Jack up the front of the Renegade;

Remove the wheel;

Remove the brake caliper (hang it out of the way, do not remove the brake line), brake caliper mount, and brake rotor;

Disconnect the ABS sensor;

Disconnect the Tie Rod end from the spindle, remove the nut, strike the spindle with a hammer where the tie rod end goes through the spindle. This will loosen the tapered fit of the tie rod end;

Remove the axle nut;

Remove the two bolts for the strut;

Pull the spindle toward you while pushing the axle through the spindle;

Loosen the Ball Joint nut so that there is a gap between the nut and the spindle;

Turn the spindle so the you can strike the spindle with a hammer where the ball joint goes through the spindle. This will loosen the tapered fit of the ball joint. Once it has popped loose, remove the ball joint nut and pull off the spindle;

Remove the three bolts holding the Ball Joint, and replace with the new Ball Joint.

Install in reverse order.

PAY ATTENTION to the torque specification of the Ball Joint and the Axle nut (the axle nut is also the pre-load for the wheel bearing).

Red lock-tight on the Brake Caliper mount bolts, Blue lock-tight on the caliper bolts.
 

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To be fair to RSanges I too thought the same. (y)(y)(y)

Ball joints are ball joints and must be of the same process to remove and fix them.

However that is why we are not mechanics and when we offer such advice it is up to person raising the question to ensure that we were trying to assist them as opposed to obstuct their repair process. If you want a thorough, mechanical examination then pay the mechanic the money he is due from £30 per hour and upwards. Pay a dealership £60 per hour and then add in the VAT.

To berate a forum member for offering their thoughts as RSanges received is IMHO disgusting and that is why members are wary of offering replies.

We may be wrong, we may be sending people in the wrong direction but we do want to help and assist. :cry::cry:
 

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and enjoy the forum!

Hope you get your problem worked out.
Search is your friend!
 

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Discussion Starter #10

To berate a forum member for offering their thoughts as RSanges received is IMHO disgusting and that is why members are wary of offering replies.
This is a joke, right? Replying to a member to say thanks for being helpful is berating and disgusting? Yeah, IMHO, this must be a joke...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I lied, but not on purpose.
The lower ball joints on a Renegade do not require any special tools. stupid simple repair (as far as ball joints go).

IF my memory serves me:

Jack up the front of the Renegade;

Remove the wheel;

Remove the brake caliper (hang it out of the way, do not remove the brake line), brake caliper mount, and brake rotor;

Disconnect the ABS sensor;

Disconnect the Tie Rod end from the spindle, remove the nut, strike the spindle with a hammer where the tie rod end goes through the spindle. This will loosen the tapered fit of the tie rod end;

Remove the axle nut;

Remove the two bolts for the strut;

Pull the spindle toward you while pushing the axle through the spindle;

Loosen the Ball Joint nut so that there is a gap between the nut and the spindle;

Turn the spindle so the you can strike the spindle with a hammer where the ball joint goes through the spindle. This will loosen the tapered fit of the ball joint. Once it has popped loose, remove the ball joint nut and pull off the spindle;

Remove the three bolts holding the Ball Joint, and replace with the new Ball Joint.

Install in reverse order.

PAY ATTENTION to the torque specification of the Ball Joint and the Axle nut (the axle nut is also the pre-load for the wheel bearing).

Red lock-tight on the Brake Caliper mount bolts, Blue lock-tight on the caliper bolts.
Thank you kindly for these in depth instructions! This has been very helpful and I will hopefully be replacing my ball joints this weekend and fixing the weird noises I've been experiencing. You've been super helpful 👍
 

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As IDoMyOwnRacing stated you might want to look at the strut bearings. I did a post not to long ago (A word about strut bearings/mounts) where I found quite by accident, that at least one mount had failed (the post has pictures). In addition the spring isolators were worn. All of these parts can cause front end noise. On my 2015 I've replaced the struts, strut bearings, isolators and sway bar links. The ball joints are still good surprisingly.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
As IDoMyOwnRacing stated you might want to look at the strut bearings. I did a post not to long ago (A word about strut bearings/mounts) where I found quite by accident, that at least one mount had failed (the post has pictures). In addition the spring isolators were worn. All of these parts can cause front end noise. On my 2015 I've replaced the struts, strut bearings, isolators and sway bar links. The ball joints are still good surprisingly.
This is very helpful, thank you. I will definitely check out your post and see if I can't rule all these things out.

P.S. I love Prescott! We drive down from Flag all the time, especially during the winter when it's too cold and snowy here.
 

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This is very helpful, thank you. I will definitely check out your post and see if I can't rule all these things out.

P.S. I love Prescott! We drive down from Flag all the time, especially during the winter when it's too cold and snowy here.
I love it here! Didn't realize you were also in AZ! Your winters can be kinda brutal but I'm hoping to hike Mt. Humphrey before it gets cold this year.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I love it here! Didn't realize you were also in AZ! Your winters can be kinda brutal but I'm hoping to hike Mt. Humphrey before it gets cold this year.
That's awesome. I have yet to summit Humphreys, but it's not for lack of trying. The elevation can be harsh. I have made it to the top of Elden at least, haha. One of these days I'll finish Humphreys. Good luck to you when you decide to give it a go!
 

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I'm having the same issue on the rear passenger side, but have yet to determine the cause. End links looked just fine on mine, I was debating on if I have a bad strut or not.
Greetings I had the same problem when I hit a road gator aka a shredded tyre... it can be one of 2 things mine turned out to be a strut support google it and you will find its a plastic aka polymer strut no longer metal its available on mopar parts for $16 get 2 to be safe as mine is a trailhawk had both swapped out now front is lower if push comes to shove and its not the struts then its a bearing bushing mount you can find these at summit racing at a fair price ..good luck
PS it might not look bad when up just when going over bumps
 

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Greetings I had the same problem when I hit a road gator aka a shredded tyre... it can be one of 2 things mine turned out to be a strut support google it and you will find its a plastic aka polymer strut no longer metal its available on mopar parts for $16 get 2 to be safe as mine is a trailhawk had both swapped out now front is lower if push comes to shove and its not the struts then its a bearing bushing mount you can find these at summit racing at a fair price ..good luck
PS it might not look bad when up just when going over bumps
The only strut support I'm seeing is in the front. My noise is in the rear. If I have time this weekend I'm going to pull the access panel out and inspect the strut a little closer. Could the be strut mount bearing I suppose. Hard part is knowing without taking the thing apart. :confused:
 
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