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I have a 2017 jeep renegade trailhawk around 53,000 miles. My battery died this morning and I got a jumpstart. We replaced the batter this afternoon and now there is no power at all going to the jeep. Fuses have been checked, it’s a new battery and it has been checked. Not sure what else to do?
 

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Just going over the info provided:
1) We replaced the batter this afternoon and now there is no power at all going to the jeep.
2) Fuses have been checked.
3) It’s a new battery and it has been checked.

Where/how are you checking that there is no power "at all" going to the Jeep?
Is there a good ground connection to the battery?
Do you have battery voltage (about 12 vdc) between the positive cable assembly (not the battery post) and chassis ground (like the metal of the engine block)?
 

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The original post is the equivalent of saying: My lamp is not getting any power at all. I've checked the outlet, the switch, the socket, and verified the bulb is functional. Something there does not add up. So I'm thinking of a connection/cable problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The original post is the equivalent of saying: My lamp is not getting any power at all. I've checked the outlet, the switch, the socket, and verified the bulb is functional. Something there does not add up. So I'm thinking of a connection/cable problem.
The jeep will not start, none of the lights will turn on. Nothing happens when we try to start it.
 

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welcomegroup

and enjoy our forum.

If you checked everything and the grounds did you check for any codes with a reader? If still nothing it is dealer time.

I think you might of blown the CPU or TIPM when you Jumped it. Good luck.
 

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Is the new battery ok/charged?
Are the connectors all secure?
Have you checked all the main fuses?
Was everything ok after the jumpstart?
Did the car run at all with the new battery?
Do not jumpstart from another vehicle, this can disrupt the CANbus. Alway use a battery pack instead.
 

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Check the battery install. IF jumpstarting it caused problems, you would have likely seen symptoms of it while driving with the jump start and the symptom would likely be electrical issues and not just "it's completely dead". The battery could be bad from the factory, or the cables aren't connected properly. With removal and replacement, the postiive terminal block has to be partially disassembled, and if it's not back together properly, things won't work right. AT least for me, I have the toggle clamp style negative temrinal connector, and I hads issues getting a snug connection on my replacement battery. If you have the push on type, people have had issues with them. I don't think either are helped by the fact that some batteries seems ot have very slightly undersized terminals these days. I'm sure it saves like $0.005 per battery. Also if you ahd corrosion and the terminal connectors weren't cleaned up, you may not have good contact.
 

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OK... But how would jumping from a booster pack be any different than boosting from another car? Both provide a nominal +12v DC.

Unless another car might not provide regulated voltage...?
I'm not an electronic or automotive expert, but as I understand things... automotive alternators (along with their associated control circuits) do not put out pure DC. It is an AC output (from the alternator windings) that is rectified to produces a ripple DC. I'm assuming that a jump start from a non-running vehicle would be much different than a jump start from a running vehicle.
When a running vehicle's rippled DC output is used to start another vehicle, as the second vehicle starts and begins to produce its own rippled output waveform, the two waveforms may interact in unusual ways. This could produce spikes in voltage or a frequency of DC ripple that our poor little Italian computers just weren't designed to handle.

That's all speculation based on my understanding of how the pieces/parts work with a little electrical background thrown in. I may be off the wall, and it has something to do with unicorns and leprechauns.
 

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Mmmm... maybe....

So the solution might be to not have the donor car running.

My understanding's always been, the reason you want the donor car running (which the Renegade owner's Manual also says to do) is to make sure the donor voltage is high enough.

But if the donor battery is in good shape, starting with the donor off wouldn't be any different than starting it off of your own battery... maybe...?
 

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So the solution might be to not have the donor car running.

But if the donor battery is in good shape, starting with the donor off wouldn't be any different than starting it off of your own battery... maybe...?
In a previous post I made (maybe 2 years ago) your interpretation certainly reinforces why I had a successful jump start without damaging the electrics.

However, since then I have deliberately refused to jump start anything just in case of errors.

Somewhere there will be a correct answer and if the manual is not the place then where is?
 

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Vehicle 12V has all sorts of nasties and who knows what else when it's someone else's car.

LiIon pack are cheap and you can carry it with you.
Also can lend it to others instead of using your car to jump others. It's safer and more practical. You can even use them for camping etc.
 

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Hmmm.. The other reason why I was always taught to have the donor car running when jump-starting was that the "dead" engine doesn't start directly from the donor battery. It actually starts from the "dead" battery, and it takes a few minutes for the dead battery to charge enough so that it can start the engine.

So I suppose if you have to jump start from a donor car, it's probably best to have the donor engine not running. You'd just be taking a risk of running down the donor battery while the dead battery is charging...

But a booster pack is better. OK, so I see booster packs for less than US $100. And they don't look too huge. Probably good to have for off-road use, if nothing else.

What kind (capacity) are you-all using?
 

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So its a case of both batteries equalising their voltage and instantly draining the full battery to match the flat battery?
Was that in response to me right above?

Assuming you're not your usual joking-leprechaun self... ;) Oh, wait, that's the other Celts...

No I think the idea is you don't want the donor battery draining over several minutes or more while the dead battery gets charged up enough to start.
 

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Mmmm... maybe....

So the solution might be to not have the donor car running.

My understanding's always been, the reason you want the donor car running (which the Renegade owner's Manual also says to do) is to make sure the donor voltage is high enough.

But if the donor battery is in good shape, starting with the donor off wouldn't be any different than starting it off of your own battery... maybe...?
My research says if you have the donor car running its alternator can cause a spike as high as 15v which can definitely fry stuff
 
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