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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Getting about 4 in circle on floor every night. Clear odorless oil. Engine dip stick is staying constant. Can't find a dipstick for trans.
Was supposed to go to dealer today but everything here got shut down over a few inches of snow.


Any ideas on oil leak?
 

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Engine oil, even when new, isn't clear. The only clear, oily liquid under the hood is brake fluid. I would seriously look at the master cylinder reservoir and check the level. Like now!

Transmission has no dipstick. It's "fill for life".
 

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Engine oil, even when new, isn't clear. The only clear, oily liquid under the hood is brake fluid. I would seriously look at the master cylinder reservoir and check the level. Like now!

Transmission has no dipstick. It's "fill for life".
While I agree that it could be brake fluid, maybe coming down from the master cylinder or reservoir, engine oil can look pretty clear when there is only a small amount, for example a drop on your finger. My engine oil begins turning darker after only 5k miles to so, and it ends up dark amber after 10k miles.

Below a sample of fresh LM 5W-40 on my finger.

If the transmission has no dipstick there must some way of verifying the fluid levels is correct. It may require a scan tool. Most likely an idiot light will come off when fluid level falls below a certain level. That the penny pinchers have gotten rid of the dipstick is regrettable. It was certainly not an engineer's decision, but just a money-saving decision.

The manual states to change the transmission fluid after 50k miles or after 3 years (whichever occurs first) hand after 150k miles or after 15 years (whichever occurs first)

for any of the following: trailer
towing, heavy loading, taxi,
police, delivery service (commercial
service), off-road, desert
operation or more than
50% of your driving is at sustained
speeds during hot
weather, above 90°F (32°C).


 

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That oil drop is very clearly Amber in color.

For the trans, one puts fluid in through the vent cap, run the car till the transmission is warm, then add more fluid until it comes out a fill level plug. Much cheaper to build and package.
 

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That oil drop is very clearly Amber in color.

Yes, the drop is amber, but if you only dab your finger in a little oil, it will look totally clear and won't look amber at all. I have seen oxidized brake fluid that looked rather dark. All I'm saying is that color alone is not a reliable indicator of type of fluid.

For the trans, one puts fluid in through the vent cap, run the car till the transmission is warm, then add more fluid until it comes out a fill level plug. Much cheaper to build and package.
Is that the normal procedure for this particular transmission? If so, it's reasonably simple. Presuming you can get under the car with it completely level, this should be doable. I know on some other transmissions it's a much more involved procedure.

Could you by any chance point out where the vent stack is on this transmission? In another thread some of us were wondering where the vent stack is and how high above the ground it terminates, because we were wondering if this might be the limiting factor for water fording depth.
 

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In another post you said the pan needs probably to be removed to drain the transmission fluid. If there's no draw plug, I would install one ofter dropping the pan. So the penny savers pinched the drain plug and the dipstick? That's a finger in the face of every mechanically inclined person. Of course, the dealers will love it, because it will force the majority of people to bring the vehicle in.

I remember when VW wanted to make engine compartments inaccessible for consumers and allow only authorized shops to open it up. That was back in the lat '80s and while the idea didn't fly due to consumers protesting, Im sure the notion is alive until the time is ripe for another attempt at implementing such limitations. Things that make servicing the vehicle increasingly difficult to inconvenient for the layman are an example of "boiling the frog." Eventually the consumers bow to pressures exerted by the industry, Like liberties, consumers' freedoms are taken bit by bit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It will be back at the dealer for first oil change and to get the leak fixed as soon as this next storm clears. Around here they shut everything down even if it just looks like it will snow.


And yes I did check the brake fluid, water, and oil level. Maybe it's windor wusher flooid or blikur flooid?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Checked engine dip stick today/ It was at half on the checker area now its quarter the way up/ So my guess is engine oil.
Not going to be pretty having the dealer fix it. And every time I have had someone work on a vehicle I have to fix things afterwards that the messed up or forgot.


Oh well, see what is going to happen next week.
 

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Checked engine dip stick today/ It was at half on the checker area now its quarter the way up/ So my guess is engine oil.
Not going to be pretty having the dealer fix it. And every time I have had someone work on a vehicle I have to fix things afterwards that the messed up or forgot.


Oh well, see what is going to happen next week.
May just be the oil presser sending unit leaking oil. It's an easy fix if it is.
I don't trust other people working on my vehicles ether, as you say always have to fix something after they do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Common engine oil leak locations

drain plug seal/washer
valve cover gasket
oil cooler line/clamps
oil pressure sender
oil pump seal
oil pan gasket
PCV return hose or separator
cam seal
crank seal

I would hope on a brand new vehicle with barely 3k miles it wouldn't be any of these. Like I said its coming from the seam between the block and the bell housing. It doesn't look like its coming from any where above this.
 

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I would hope on a brand new vehicle with barely 3k miles it wouldn't be any of these. Like I said its coming from the seam between the block and the bell housing. It doesn't look like its coming from any where above this.
Of course a new car shouldn't have an oil leak. But it apparently does. So much for what should be and reality.

Dripping oil can take interesting routes. The spot from where it drips may not be where the leak is. Tracing the leak is pretty much a matter of taking the time to meticulously look for the leak. Degreasing the engine, driving the car a few miles, then starting to look for the leak may help or even be necessary.

If it's really coming from between engine and transmission, then it is likely the rear main (crankshaft) seal. That's bad news, whether the vehicle is new or old.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Got it to the dealer and they can't figure out if it is trans or power steering. So they put dye in the trans and want to see it in a week.


I told them I wanted to see what they find and I wanted to look at it while on the rack. They came and got me when it was ready. Never did let me see what they found.


I sure hate having other people work on anything of mine. And they aren't doing much to build any trust with me.
 

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Got it to the dealer and they can't figure out if it is trans or power steering. So they put dye in the trans and want to see it in a week.


I told them I wanted to see what they find and I wanted to look at it while on the rack. They came and got me when it was ready. Never did let me see what they found.


I sure hate having other people work on anything of mine. And they aren't doing much to build any trust with me.
I know exactly how you feel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Back to the dealer for the second time. They found the leak it's a cracked transmission case.
Just over 3k miles and no off roading or any abuse. Trans has leaked from the first week we had it.
Don't know if it is a design flaw, over torqued during assembly or what.
Dealer claims this is the first one they have seen. Anyone else have any trans problems?
 
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