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Has anyone else had a daytime running light go out? I'm at 23.5k miles and my daytime running light went out a couple days ago. Then yesterday, I got a message in the dash while driving that the "parking light" is out. After looking through the owners manual and playing with it a little, I still can't decide if the parking light is the same as the daytime running. It looks like it is, but why would there be two messages for the same bulb and why would they not appear at the same time? Haven't had time to pull the bulbs yet since it requires opening the flap by the wheel, so it could be a dirty contact, but this seems a little soon for bulbs to be burning out.
I had to take y 2015 Renegade to the dealer because the ignition switch locked up. I asked them to fix the daytime running/parking light. They said they had to replace the whole “headlight“ assembly, had a “short in it. $400+ and now it works fine. It had been going out frequently and I could get it back on for a while by banging on the fender. Ow it’s fixed permanently I hope!
 

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I've got a 2018 Renegade Latitude that I've replaced the dual filament P21/5W bulb for my Daytime Running Light (driver side)
I finally looked closer at everything and noticed the bulb connections this time really looked melted and there seems to be some spark damage on one of the socket's contacts. I'm assuming the socket is the problem. I'd be okay with cleaning it, but the contacts seem pretty hard to get access to. I would like to just replace the socket entirely.

You guys might be my last hope. Has anyone found this socket or have any pointers on how to find it?

View attachment 2396350191 View attachment 2396350192
I am no auto electrician but 2 things that I see could be happening. Arcing or overheating at the bulbs lead (as in metal Plumbum or Pb for the Chemists among us) contact.

Without giving technical explanations have you ever seen a welder at work? They use a long welding rod and it creates an "arc" when electricity is passed through the rod and it meets the steel to be welded. the arc is a small space between the rod and the metal.

Using that analogy in relation to your bulb and contact is similar. Electricity is being passed across the bulb and contact point but you may have a "tiny, minute space". between bulb and bulb holder contact. Thereby its trying to act as a welding rod and join the bulb to the contact (it cannot as it's 2 different metals) and the lead is melting at a low temperature. You can see the arcing spots on the contact.

So there lies fault 1, Arcing.

Overheating caused by increased resistance at the bulbs point of contact. Could it be caused by simply an incorrect bulb being fitted, wrong wattage etc It's not the first time I thought I was using the correct bulb as recommended only to find a mistake on my part. An example being that last week I swapped my rear number plate bulb for a more modern, compatible LED, low heat bulb and just about burnt my fingers when removing it after getting an error code. Goes to show that a simple bulb can rapidly overheat. Once removed and the original bulb was replaced I could touch it without getting burned. Imagine had I left it in place even without an error code? Arcing, melting, overheating, expansion of the plastic wire sheathing, red hot wire inside the sheath eventually setting a small fire, spreading to the plastic etc and the car in flames. Oh believe me it does happen like that.

So there lies fault 2, Overheating.

A quick non auto electrician fix would be to disconnect your battery (negative always suffices). That plug is readily accessible from your wheel arch and easily pulls out with just enough length to see it clearly. Use a small clock makers screwdriver or similar tool and lever the contact towards you, thereby raising its height. Repeat on the second contact and this should create a very close and snug fit without any gaps when you insert a brand new 100% compatible bulb.

This easy fix solution should remove both conditions mentioned above. Monitor it closely and examine after use if given the opportunity. It's only 2 wee plastic screws onthe flap that can be removed and reused with a pair of long nosed pliars. The bulb fitting is only 1/8th of a turn and it's out, ready for inspection.

If that fails then it's time for a visit to the garage. :cry:
 

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@puddlesplasher I agree with where you are going with your suggestions.

I should have mentioned I tried to pull the contacts up a bit to ensure a good connection after I replaced the second bulb.

I'm fairly confident on the bulb rating and style. The socket is labelled as a "P21/5W". That appears to indicate it supports dual filament bulbs with 21 watt and 5 watt filaments that are designed to fit a Double Contact Bayonet (BA15d) style base. The 7528 bulb appears to be such a bulb. The original bulb was a "Philips 12499/XL" which appears to be a bulb but matches such specifications itself.

I say "fairly" because all of this is gathered from some pretty random internet searches and I'm not sure ultimately where all this is defined officially. The internet is never wrong... :)

I've attached a comparison picture after I took the time to pull out the other socket (passenger side). It definitely appears that something overheated at some point and caused some distortion in the plastic of the socket. My guess is the bulb just does not seat itself appropriately against the contacts any longer and that probably explains the quick wear and tear I experience now.

Which goes back to me hoping to obtain the part number for this socket so I can obtain a new one to eliminate any further concern and effort.

Automotive lighting Automotive tire Dishware Rim Automotive design
 

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Ouch that's nasty.

Ok, let me think :unsure: RSanges is our man for searching. He finds everything down to a tiny wee bolt. Where would the forum be without him I wonder :eek::love:

Hopefully he reads this post very soon but I shall send him a little private message on your behalf and let's see if we can get this resolved for you. (y)
 

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I got nothing. It may not be a saleable part by itself. I can find plenty of bulb holders, but it appears to have a special twist-lock engagement with the housing. Probably so no one can find an easy replacement.
 
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Outstanding effort again by RSanges. :love:(y)

If you can't find it then it's going to be a hard long slog to find a compatible holder. :cry::cry:

Only Option I can therefore now suggest is a visit to your local scrapyard. Renegades have been out for a while so they may not be too hard to find. Then its a case of snipping the wires and re-attaching onto your own harness. :unsure:;)
 

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I have the same issue, left parking/daytime runner bulb out (2016 TH, 50,000 miles). I replaced the bulb, no dice. I had my mechanic replace the bulb...still no dice. Sometimes the light comes back on but it doesn't stay on long. I don't feel like chasing this issue, so I've learned to live with it.
 

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I have the same issue, left parking/daytime runner bulb out (2016 TH, 50,000 miles). I replaced the bulb, no dice. I had my mechanic replace the bulb...still no dice. Sometimes the light comes back on but it doesn't stay on long. I don't feel like chasing this issue, so I've learned to live with it.
Again I don't know US Law but in the UK the Police have the right to charge you under the Vehicle Lighting Act for having defective lights. For me it's not worth taking the risk and having 3 penalty points as a minimum placed upon my car licence. I am immediately banned upon accruing 12 or more points.

Hence it's worthwhile to get a resolution to this issue. (y)
 

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Thank you again for everyone's input. I emailed FCA Mopar (via Email Mopar) and I did get a response:
Dual Filament DRL Socket is only serviced with the Lamp Assembly part number 68256432AA (Left) and 68256431AA (Right). Regrettably, the Socket is not available as a separate item at this time.
Unfortunately that assembly is $150USD+ Which seems overkill for just the socket. I at least wanted to capture my findings for all to benefit though. Thank you again!
 

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Again I don't know US Law but in the UK the Police have the right to charge you under the Vehicle Lighting Act for having defective lights. For me it's not worth taking the risk and having 3 penalty points as a minimum placed upon my car licence. I am immediately banned upon accruing 12 or more points.

Hence it's worthwhile to get a resolution to this issue. (y)
Fair point in the UK, most definitely. Here in the US, laws vary state by state. In my state (Utah), the daytime running lights are not required to be on or functioning.
 

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I have a 2015 Renegade trailhawk and am having the same issue. Parking light out then driving light out! GRRRRRR. I have had it to the dealer and to the local shop and it keeps going out.
I have a 2017 and same problem with the DRL/parking light. Sometimes it’s on but mostly out with the error message. Am unwilling to spend $212 just to diagnose.
 

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Lynne have you tried anything to find a solution? If so can you provide the members with some details as it may assist in getting a quick resolution for you.

What about some of the suggestions above, have you tried them?

Often posts with limited information are glossed over whereas those that supply a little more specific information tend to get better and quicker results.

I would hate to think you would be bypassed if any of us can assist. However if the fault occurs and you are not technically minded then I am afraid that a visit to the garage and "biting the bullet" when it comes to payment may be another solution.
 

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All

I've had the same problem pop up twice, seems to happen when it gets cold and rainy.
Today I replaced the light bulb, when I turned the ignition on the light was very dim and the message persisted.
I removed the socket and looked down inside at the bulb contacts and on one of them there was a bunch of grey corrosion, I am assuming from moisture over time.
10 minutes with a jewelers flathead screwdriver scraping off the corrosion and the issue is gone and the right side bulb is as bright as the left.
I hope this helps some of you as it has driven me nuts the past couple of times it has happened as it seemed to be intermittent this until this last time.

Ray

Lynne have you tried anything to find a solution? If so can you provide the members with some details as it may assist in getting a quick resolution for you.

What about some of the suggestions above, have you tried them?

Often posts with limited information are glossed over whereas those that supply a little more specific information tend to get better and quicker results.

I would hate to think you would be bypassed if any of us can assist. However if the fault occurs and you are not technically minded then I am afraid that a visit to the garage and "biting the bullet" when it comes to payment may be another solution.
 

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All

I've had the same problem pop up twice, seems to happen when it gets cold and rainy.
Today I replaced the light bulb, when I turned the ignition on the light was very dim and the message persisted.
I removed the socket and looked down inside at the bulb contacts and on one of them there was a bunch of grey corrosion, I am assuming from moisture over time.
10 minutes with a jewelers flathead screwdriver scraping off the corrosion and the issue is gone and the right side bulb is as bright as the left.
I hope this helps some of you as it has driven me nuts the past couple of times it has happened as it seemed to be intermittent this until this last time.

Ray
 

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So I wanted to join in here because Ive had the same issue and was searching for the part as well. I took my car in to get the light replaced thinking it was just a bad bulb, and luckily the technician at the dodge dealership was moral enough to let me know what was going on. For me at least, they identified that the socket was bad. Presumably an easy fix, but greed has gotten in the way. MOPAR will not allow the dealerships to replace just the socket, they're required to replace the entire assembly, which I was quoted to be around 400$ when everything was said and done. Finding a new bulb is easy, but the socket itself has proven very difficult.
 

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Thank you again for everyone's input. I emailed FCA Mopar (via Email Mopar) and I did get a response:


Unfortunately that assembly is $150USD+ Which seems overkill for just the socket. I at least wanted to capture my findings for all to benefit though. Thank you again!
Same issue. I did find a "dual element" socket. Jeep RENEGADE Socket. Lamp. Export. Bulb holder, py21w turn signal, py21w turn signal - - 68285016AA | Mopar Parts Overstock, Lakeland FL

I am not sure if it will work but for $17, its worth a shot. The description says 2016 Renegade vs my 2015 but who knows.
 

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Let us know if this works! Please.
Ok folks. I’m on the verge of resolving this problem with Jeep. So will give you the rundown. I called Jeep about the problem. My warranty had run out after 30000 miles and maybe 3 years. I have 33,500 and 4 years. I’m not clear on the details. I argued that I couldn’t go into the dealer because of covid and my compromised immune system earlier as this had been going on before the warranty ran out and the light kept coming on and going out again. They said to take it to the dealer and get it diagnosed and I’d have to pay for the diagnosis. I had already taken it to my dealer and they wanted to charge me $212. So I took it to another dealer and described the problem and told them what I learned on this forum about it being the part that holds the light bulb and that it was a known problem. They believed me and told me the price for the part and labor. The first time the total came to $650 including CA sales tax. Then when I got a case manager and she called the price went up to over $900!
Anyway, Jeep has agreed to pay and I have a $100 copay. Considering all the irritation this has caused I feel very happy with the outcome.
 
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