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I pulled the socket out again to look closer at it all once more, I noticed the wiring going to the 3 conductor socket was only 2 wires! The wiring is sort of hard to see without sticking your head deep inside the wheel well almost, but I got my phone in there for some detail.

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This got me questioning why I was replacing the bulb with a two filament bulb since there was not the conductors to support it. I had that two conductor socket (68285062AA) lying around still and gave that a try with a Sylvania 1156 single filament bulb. It worked! All lights are performing as expected. I can not find any setting where one side is different than the other, despite the passenger side currently having a two filament bulb and the driver side having a single filament bulb.

I think I'm most baffled that after emailing FCA they were not able to clarify any of this, but instead pointed me to a $150 assembly.
 

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Has anyone else had a daytime running light go out? I'm at 23.5k miles and my daytime running light went out a couple days ago. Then yesterday, I got a message in the dash while driving that the "parking light" is out. After looking through the owners manual and playing with it a little, I still can't decide if the parking light is the same as the daytime running. It looks like it is, but why would there be two messages for the same bulb and why would they not appear at the same time? Haven't had time to pull the bulbs yet since it requires opening the flap by the wheel, so it could be a dirty contact, but this seems a little soon for bulbs to be burning out.
After many trips to my local mechanicI took my 2015 Renegade to the dealer. They told me the whole headlight assembly needed to be replaced. It cost me about $450 and it worked fine for about 3 months. Then the same thing. The light went out again. I got it back on once by banging on the fender, but now it’s out for good.
 

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Wife has a 2019 Renegade with turn signal problems. One went out within 6 months. Not sure if related, but had been recently driven in very heavy rain. A friend was a mechanic at dealership. Bulb was good and swapping didn't work, so tried new socket. That worked until, it was again driven in heavy rain 3 days ago,.. discovered this morning. I haven't dove into it yet, but could it be water pooling in socket shorting it out, but not blowing bulb?
 

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What a mess I ended up finding a dual element bulb where a single element bulb should be. 1157 is what they are really using for the DRL and only using one side of the bulb so it heats up and melts the contact on the bulb. 1156 Amber is what the turn signal bulbs are on the front. Wish I never saw this 2015 Latitude nothing but quirks but it is still moving. if I can figure out all this lighting I might make it to my 69th b-day....One thing I did see that the Neg cable is painted copper so don.t forget to clean it now and again.
 

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That was great news Rob with getting your issue fixed and its a remedy that will be passed to others with similar issues. I will certainly remember this easy fix and keep it in mind.

Could I ask that you visit the Community introduction page. I know others will also be delighted to have you among us.

Cheers.
 

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Has anyone else had a daytime running light go out? I'm at 23.5k miles and my daytime running light went out a couple days ago. Then yesterday, I got a message in the dash while driving that the "parking light" is out. After looking through the owners manual and playing with it a little, I still can't decide if the parking light is the same as the daytime running. It looks like it is, but why would there be two messages for the same bulb and why would they not appear at the same time? Haven't had time to pull the bulbs yet since it requires opening the flap by the wheel, so it could be a dirty contact, but this seems a little soon for bulbs to be burning out.
Wife has 2018 Renegade Trailhawk. Right DRL socket had to be replaced at about 15k. Now at about 38k, dash says bulb out, bulb doesn't work, but is bulb is good and works in other side's socket. Have appointment in 2 weeks.
 

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I just replaced the passenger's side daytime running light for the 4th time on my 2015 Renegade. The driver's side has never burned out (for that matter, NONE of the other bulbs have burned out). It seems odd that the just one of the DTR lights is problematic. Perhaps a bad socket? I haven't gotten ambitious enough to try swapping left/right sockets.
 

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New here. Had same problems as everyone above. 2018 Renegade Sport 4x4. DRL's/Turn Signal's keep failing. Sometimes one of the solder contacts on the bottom of the bulb gets melted. Still makes no sense as to why the DRL bulb is a dual filament. There is no voltage going to one of the connectors at the bottom of the socket and no wire to supply voltage (at least in my car). Tried new OEM DRL bulbs (68093594AA) with no success. Then new OEM turn signal bulbs (68093596AA) with no success. Reached out to my local Jeep dealer to inquire about new sockets for the DRL's and was told they only sell those with the DRL/Turn Signal assembly, not independently. Crazy. Can't even find them aftermarket. So, as a last ditch effort before ordering the DRL/Turn Signal assembly(s), taking the new sockets out and returning them with the bad ones, I did this, and so far, so good:

I noticed that the bulbs, when in the sockets, have a lot of slop where they meet the sides of the socket (ground). I simply "re-positioned" the sides of the sockets with a dental tool to make the bulbs really snug in the socket. Use dielectric grease. My lights have worked now for a couple of months.

These sockets are very cheaply made. The outer metal wall (ground) is so thin that it is extremely susceptible to expansion (when hot) and contraction (when cold). This may explain why we are having more issues in cold climates or when the weather gets cold. And why they last for a bit but soon get loose again. And why sometimes kicking your bumper gets them to work again. If it happens again, I am going to put a small removable drop of solder where the bulb meets the socket.

Good luck.
 

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New here. I bought a Renegade 2018 in Dec/2021, and I've already changed the bulb 3 times. The first time I followed the same lamp that was there, I bought the same one (Sylvania 1157). Then I bought another 1157 and it burned again. Then I researched and saw that this 1157 is wrong, the correct bulb is 7528. With this 7528 I noticed that the lighting is even stronger. But today this 7528 burned again. I took the socket out and discovered that inside it there was a remnant of solder from the Sylvania 1157 lamp that was there.
I cleaned the contacts, pulled it out with a small screwdriver, and now I'm going to see how long it will last. I think 2 of my problems were:
1) the wrong bulb that was there and I bought another one just like it (Sylvania 1157)
2) the solder drip from the wrong light bulb I put in probably made contact between the terminals
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I pulled the socket out again to look closer at it all once more, I noticed the wiring going to the 3 conductor socket was only 2 wires! The wiring is sort of hard to see without sticking your head deep inside the wheel well almost, but I got my phone in there for some detail.

View attachment 2396352102

This got me questioning why I was replacing the bulb with a two filament bulb since there was not the conductors to support it. I had that two conductor socket (68285062AA) lying around still and gave that a try with a Sylvania 1156 single filament bulb. It worked! All lights are performing as expected. I can not find any setting where one side is different than the other, despite the passenger side currently having a two filament bulb and the driver side having a single filament bulb.

I think I'm most baffled that after emailing FCA they were not able to clarify any of this, but instead pointed me to a $150 assembly.
the correct light bulb is with 2 filaments 21/5w. If you notice, the strongest bulb (21w) lights up when the headlight set is "off", and the weakest bulb (5w) lights up when the headlight is on and also when activating the remote control to open or close the doors (when put your hand on the handle too).
Now, really why it has only 2 wires I still don't understand. Because it should be 3 wires: one for 21w, one for 5w, and one for Negative
 

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I pulled the socket out again to look closer at it all once more, I noticed the wiring going to the 3 conductor socket was only 2 wires! The wiring is sort of hard to see without sticking your head deep inside the wheel well almost, but I got my phone in there for some detail.

View attachment 2396352102

This got me questioning why I was replacing the bulb with a two filament bulb since there was not the conductors to support it. I had that two conductor socket (68285062AA) lying around still and gave that a try with a Sylvania 1156 single filament bulb. It worked! All lights are performing as expected. I can not find any setting where one side is different than the other, despite the passenger side currently having a two filament bulb and the driver side having a single filament bulb.

I think I'm most baffled that after emailing FCA they were not able to clarify any of this, but instead pointed me to a $150 assembly.
I discovered!!!! There are 2 wires, 12v and negative: the DRL lamp is a P21/5, but it only uses one wire and only lights the 21w filament, switching the voltage to 4V when the headlight is on or when the alarm is on/off, and 12V when the headlight is off.
 

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I have been having issues with my lights for months now. It all started with the day running light going out. I changed the bulb, and it worked for a little while. Then it would go out again. Sometimes I could get it to come back on if I messed with it. Then my headlight went out..changed that. Next the tag lights went out. The dash still says the tag lights are out, even though they're not. The dealership can't figure out why. Then the DRL went out again. While trying to get it to work, my headlight went out (on the opposite side). Took it to the dealership and they tried to blame me for touching the headlight, even after explaining everything. Paid $350 for them to change my bulbs..dash still says tag lights are out and two days later DRL went out again! So frustrating! Any suggestions?
 
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