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Discussion Starter #1
Long story short, after installing JBL GX963 6x9s in the front doors, I wasn't completely satisfied that I lost a little bass in the front. After doing a lot of searching, I understand that the amp is the problem, but I really don't want to mess with it.

I purchased the Kenwood KSC-SW11 Compact Powered Enclosed sub off of Amazon for a pretty good price and I am going to give it a try. It seemed to be the smallest powered sub available with decent reviews. I measured under the passenger seat and it seems like it might actually fit, so my plan is to install it there. If that doesn't work, I'll find another spot for it.

Apparently, this powered sub does not need to be connected to the battery, and can be powered by tapping into the interior fuse box per the instructions. I've seen some who've installed it this way, and others who have disregarded the instructions and hooked it up to the battery anyway. Rather than trying to go through the firewall, I think I'll end up tapping into the interior fuse box, unless you guys feel this would be a bad idea.

I would like to run my plan by you guys in case I am missing any important details or if what I might be doing would cause issues later down the road.

Power: I plan on purchasing a mini add-a-circuit fuse tap to tap into one of the cavities, as I don't believe there is a spare open slot. The power wire included has a 10 amp fuse on it already, but I'm not entirely sure which cavity I should tap into. I found a Renegade manual online, and starting on page 345, it lists the fuse cavities of the interior (I have a 2016 but I'm assuming it's the same as 2017). Does anyone have any suggestions?

On/Off: The instructions say to wire this into the back of the head unit, but I would like to avoid cutting wires, so couldn't I add this wire to the fuse box as well? I was looking at the fuse cavities again, and noticed F36 supplies the UConnect system. My thought was to use another add-a-circuit fuse tap with a smaller fuse. I saw someone use a 3 amp fuse, but I'm not entirely sure if that's right. Any thoughts on that? Or should I go straight to the head unit for on/off?

Input: I'll tap the rear speaker wires behind the head unit to get input as I see a lot of people suggest doing that. Any difference between doing the rear versus the front for input? Do I have to tap behind the head unit or is there another way?

Ground: Pretty self-explanatory, but will depend on if I can place this under the passenger seat. I'll see if I can use one of the seat bolts.

Running wires: I would like to just take off one side of the panels near the passenger seat. Is it possible run the power and on/off wires back up through/behind the head unit and then behind the glove box to reach by the passenger seat? This is one of those things where I have no idea what to expect.

I would appreciate any help/advice/thoughts on this.
 

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Do you have Beats Audio? If so you'll want to tap one of the rear channels for sound because the fronts run a factory crossover that limits their range. Best bet would be to find a full range source and use the powered sub to adjust the cross over point. Also I would always recommend running a fused power wire from the battery. It may be more work but it won't put any strain on the factory wiring. The amp may have a remote turn on via the high level (speaker) inputs. That can work well instead of running a remote turn on from the head unit. Any route you take I think you'll find it'll sound better. Not window shaking bass but a fuller sound. Best of luck.
 

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Hello and good day. If you do not have the Beats sound system, then your only choice is to tap into the wires in back of the head unit. I'm unsure if the head unit has a different crossover for front and rears, but intuition says to tap into the rears.

If you have a Beats sound system, you can tap into wires either behind the head unit or at the amplifier which is located behind the left rear interior panel in the cargo area...and it is a beast to disassemble.

As far as the on/off (also known as "remote"), there really isn't anything great that you can do. One solution would be to get a Line Out Converter (LOC) that has a remote built into it. The UConnect runs off of a series of data Can Bus wires, so a true, traditional "remote" wire is not available. What would be even better, as TroyD80 says, would be if the amp has an auto sensing remote turn on via the incoming signal from the head unit wires that you tapped.

Also, please note that for the Beats premium sound system, the front and rear signal traveling from the head unit to the factory amp is full range. The amplifier then takes the full range signal and creates all of the different crossovers before sending the signal/power out to the multiple speakers.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Do you have Beats Audio? If so you'll want to tap one of the rear channels for sound because the fronts run a factory crossover that limits their range. Best bet would be to find a full range source and use the powered sub to adjust the cross over point. Also I would always recommend running a fused power wire from the battery. It may be more work but it won't put any strain on the factory wiring. The amp may have a remote turn on via the high level (speaker) inputs. That can work well instead of running a remote turn on from the head unit. Any route you take I think you'll find it'll sound better. Not window shaking bass but a fuller sound. Best of luck.
Thanks for the info. Based on DarthLifer's response, it sounds like I'll be okay tapping the rear speaker wires at the head unit since it is full range. Would you agree? The powered sub comes with a wired remote which allows me to adjust the volume, frequency (50hz to 125hz), and phase (0 or 180).

The power wire it came with does have a 10 amp fuse connected to it. I definitely don't want to put strain on the factory wiring, but to connect it to the battery I'll have to put a ring terminal on the wire or something. Thinking about it, that is probably the better route to go.

For the turn on/off, it requires that I run a signal/remote cable. Are you saying that it would be better to tap into the head unit wires for that, or would going to the interior fuse box do the same job?


If you have a Beats sound system, you can tap into wires either behind the head unit or at the amplifier which is located behind the left rear interior panel in the cargo area...and it is a beast to disassemble.


As far as the on/off (also known as "remote"), there really isn't anything great that you can do. One solution would be to get a Line Out Converter (LOC) that has a remote built into it. The UConnect runs off of a series of data Can Bus wires, so a true, traditional "remote" wire is not available. What would be even better, as TroyD80 says, would be if the amp has an auto sensing remote turn on via the incoming signal from the head unit wires that you tapped.

Also, please note that for the Beats premium sound system, the front and rear signal traveling from the head unit to the factory amp is full range. The amplifier then takes the full range signal and creates all of the different crossovers before sending the signal/power out to the multiple speakers.
Since I'll be placing it underneath the passenger seat (I just got it today, it fits perfectly underneath there), I will be tap into the wires for the rear behind the head unit.

I had no idea there was no remote wire behind the UConnect head unit. Unfortunately, the amp does not have auto sensing remote turn on via the signal from the wires. The instructions say "If there is no power control in the center unit, connect the blue/white wire to the accessory line", and it shows an arrow pointing to the car's interior fuse box. I'll probably just do what I planned with the add-a-circuit in the fuse box.

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Is there any specific way you guys would recommend tapping into the wires? I'm not sure if this would be better, but I was thinking about adding a line out converter behind the head unit, then buying a separate RCA cable. I'm not sure how to explain this, but the sub has a harness that contains all of the wiring components and plugs into the sub. One of those wires has two female RCA connectors, so the connectors aren't directly on the unit itself. The other wire that came with it to tap into the speakers has 4 rubber connectors on one end to feed the speaker wire into, and male RCA connectors on the other. Should I just use what is provided, or would it be better to add a line out converter, buy a high-end RCA cable, and run it that way? Hopefully that makes sense.
 

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Ok. So I did some research on the KSC-SW11. I hate messing with the car fuse box. If it were me, I would just run the 12V+ and Ground all the way to the battery. Then I would tap the into the 4 rear wires behind the head unit and install an LOC w/remote turn on. Or take the route that is schemed up in the manual...roll the dice with tapping the fuse box for 12V+ and Ground and also the Accessory wire. In this case, an LOC is not needed as you would find the Accessory location on the fuse box and tap into it for your remote turn on.

For actually tapping the non-premium speaker wires I highly recommend using 20AWG Posi-Taps and Posi-Locks. Sooooooo easy. No cutting or soldering. Per online resources, the speaker wires behind the head unit are as follows:
Left Rear+ : Orange or OR/WT
Left Rear- : OR/BK or OR/BL
Right Rear+: Green or GR/RD
Right Rear- : GR/BK

*If using a LOC, please remember to correctly tune it before blasting your awesome sound machine


KSC-SW11 Manual : https://pdf.crutchfieldonline.com/ImageBank/v20130404104400/Manuals/113/113KSCSW11_DL.PDF
Head Unit Connections - 2016 Jeep Renegade, Non-Premium Audio : http://connectors.dcctools.com/results.htm
Axxess MX-MLOC725, LOC w/remote : https://axxessinterfaces.com/product/AX-MLOC725
Posi-Tap Connectors : https://www.posi-products.com/posiplug.html
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok. So I did some research on the KSC-SW11. I hate messing with the car fuse box. If it were me, I would just run the 12V+ and Ground all the way to the battery. Then I would tap the into the 4 rear wires behind the head unit and install an LOC w/remote turn on. Or take the route that is schemed up in the manual...roll the dice with tapping the fuse box for 12V+ and Ground and also the Accessory wire. In this case, an LOC is not needed as you would find the Accessory location on the fuse box and tap into it for your remote turn on.

For actually tapping the non-premium speaker wires I highly recommend using 20AWG Posi-Taps and Posi-Locks. Sooooooo easy. No cutting or soldering. Per online resources, the speaker wires behind the head unit are as follows:
Left Rear+ : Orange or OR/WT
Left Rear- : OR/BK or OR/BL
Right Rear+: Green or GR/RD
Right Rear- : GR/BK

*If using a LOC, please remember to correctly tune it before blasting your awesome sound machine


KSC-SW11 Manual : https://pdf.crutchfieldonline.com/ImageBank/v20130404104400/Manuals/113/113KSCSW11_DL.PDF
Head Unit Connections - 2016 Jeep Renegade, Non-Premium Audio : http://connectors.dcctools.com/results.htm
Axxess MX-MLOC725, LOC w/remote : https://axxessinterfaces.com/product/AX-MLOC725
Posi-Tap Connectors : https://www.posi-products.com/posiplug.html
Thank you Darth for all of the information!

My plan now is to run the power wire to the battery. I'm not sure if the ground wire is just as long as the power wire, if it is I may run that to the battery as well, but if not I'll find a bolt to put it on.

My biggest decision now would be whether to get an LOC w/remote or not. If I do get it, I'll have to purchase the LOC of course, plus an RCA 2-male to 2-male cable. I won't have to run the signal wire to the fuse box, which is good. How reliable are those LOCs? Is there a significant difference in sound quality by going this route rather than going with high level input?

Let's say I end up going without the LOC. I would want to make sure the sub powers on and off exactly with the UConnect head unit. This means the sub powering on if the car is off and I press the power button, and the sub still remaining on when I shut off the vehicle, before opening the driver's door (which shuts off the head unit). I think I mentioned before that my plan for that would be to piggy back fuse F36 (PDF page 348), which supplies the UConnect. It currently has a 15 amp fuse, and I would just be adding a 3 amp fuse with the signal wire. Is that safe?

In regards to the wiring information you provided, would those wire colors also apply to the premium system? I have the 9-speaker system.

Overall I would like to keep sub long term, so I'm trying to avoid any potential issues that could come up down the road due to an improper installation. I will definitely be getting some Posi-Taps and Posi-Locks. Thanks again for all of the info.
 

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I believe that F36 fuse is always hot. If so, then your amp will never turn off. Maybe go speaker level input (no LOC) to the amp and then use a remote module for $12.

Yes, the premium audio wires from the head unit to the amp are the same color as non-premium.

Just remember that you don't need to turn the amp's "gain" up as much because you are dealing with incoming higher speaker level voltage, as opposed to lower level LOC voltage.



PAC TR-4 Remote Trigger Module : https://www.amazon.com/PAC-TR-4-Remote-Turn-on-Module/dp/B0002J22BE
 

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I'd recommend connecting the power line directly to the battery. General install rules are: Connect power to the battery with a fuse within 1 foot of the battery and a fuse within 1 foot of the amp. Ground direct to chassis. Ground strap no longer than 18 inches. Connect ground to bare metal. Add a equal gauge ground strap from battery to chassis.
Tapping in to the fuse box could throw a code. Grounding to the battery will cause ground loop noise. You are drawing more power from the battery, so the battery ground needs to be increased. A seatbelt bolt is often used to ground an amp.
Remote on/off lead is generally connect to the vehicle ignition. This should also have a fuse, typically 0.2- 0.5 amp. The amp will only power on when ignition is on.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Remote on/off lead is generally connect to the vehicle ignition. This should also have a fuse, typically 0.2- 0.5 amp. The amp will only power on when ignition is on.
Thanks for your reply. What I want is for the sub to turn on whenever the radio is on, regardless of whether the vehicle is on or off, so it sounds like tapping into the fuse box won't produce the results I'm looking for. I'll either have to take DarthLifter's suggestion and purchase the Remote Trigger Module, or buy an LOC with a remote wire and also an RCA cable to go the low-level route. If I'm understanding correctly, it seems like the Remote Trigger Module requires me to tap into more wires behind the head unit. I'd like to get it installed this weekend but if I have to order more supplies it looks like I'll have to postpone that. If you can think of any other ideas let me know. I'm starting to wish I bought a compact sub with audio sensing capabilities.
 

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Thanks for your reply. What I want is for the sub to turn on whenever the radio is on, regardless of whether the vehicle is on or off, so it sounds like tapping into the fuse box won't produce the results I'm looking for. I'll either have to take DarthLifter's suggestion and purchase the Remote Trigger Module, or buy an LOC with a remote wire and also an RCA cable to go the low-level route. If I'm understanding correctly, it seems like the Remote Trigger Module requires me to tap into more wires behind the head unit. I'd like to get it installed this weekend but if I have to order more supplies it looks like I'll have to postpone that. If you can think of any other ideas let me know. I'm starting to wish I bought a compact sub with audio sensing capabilities.
Looks like you want to keep the factory head unit. In that case you will need the ignition on to use it. So the remote on/off could be connected to anything that comes on with the ignition. Another option is to connect the wire to the power wire going to the amp with a switch on it. You could then turn it on and off as needed. Just have to remember to turn it off when not in use, so you don't drain the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Looks like you want to keep the factory head unit. In that case you will need the ignition on to use it. So the remote on/off could be connected to anything that comes on with the ignition. Another option is to connect the wire to the power wire going to the amp with a switch on it. You could then turn it on and off as needed. Just have to remember to turn it off when not in use, so you don't drain the battery.
Yes, I don't mind the factory head unit so I'll keep it for now. I may want to upgrade later, but I'm not sure if I ever will. I just purchased a remote turn on module on Amazon, so I'll give that a shot.

NVX XTRI 1 Remote Turn On Module/Trigger

I have a general idea of how to connect this, although I'm not 100% sure. I'll have to figure it out.
 

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Yes, I don't mind the factory head unit so I'll keep it for now. I may want to upgrade later, but I'm not sure if I ever will. I just purchased a remote turn on module on Amazon, so I'll give that a shot.

NVX XTRI 1 Remote Turn On Module/Trigger

I have a general idea of how to connect this, although I'm not 100% sure. I'll have to figure it out.
I read the manual on it. Looks simple to install and provides on/off "pop" protection. Should work just fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I read the manual on it. Looks simple to install and provides on/off "pop" protection. Should work just fine.
Could you verify for me if I understand this correctly? I read the manual also, but I want to make sure I'm correct:

Remote Trigger Wires:

Red (+12V): Could I tap into the compact sub's power wire that is running to the battery, or is that not the correct/best way?
Gray (Remote In): Tapping into one of the positive speaker wires.
Blue: Connecting directly to the compact sub's remote wire.
Black (Ground): Ground to radio chassis?
 

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Could you verify for me if I understand this correctly? I read the manual also, but I want to make sure I'm correct:

Remote Trigger Wires:

Red (+12V): Could I tap into the compact sub's power wire that is running to the battery, or is that not the correct/best way?
Gray (Remote In): Tapping into one of the positive speaker wires.
Blue: Connecting directly to the compact sub's remote wire.
Black (Ground): Ground to radio chassis?
Yes. You can tap into the power line to the amp to power the remote trigger. You want to ground the amp and the trigger to the vehicle chassis. Keep the ground wire length as short as possible. This will prevent the ground from picking up noise. You can use a bolt or screw for a ground. like one holding down the seat rails or a seatbelt mounting bolt.
 
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