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According to OBDgenie, the SGW was behind the OBD port in the 2018 Renegade and is behind the stereo starting in 2019. That doesn’t mean your bypass module is useless. It just means it’s a bit more difficult to get to. They have a video for the Cherokee, which has it in the same location.

Wow. OBDgenie indeed says that the SGW for the 2019-2021 Renegade is behind the radio.

I'd take that with a grain of salt; but I just dug a bit further under my dashboard following the Service Manual directions. After removing the cover underneath the sash on the driver's side, I got to where I could (barely) see the Body Control Module way back there.

Here's the best photo I managed to take, looking forward inside the left side of the driver's side dashboard. You can see the dead pedal at the bottom, and the OBD2 port just above it. The BCM has the rows of fuses (look like mostly yellow 20A -- good luck of you have to change one of those), and the red cables are plugged into it:
Motor vehicle Bumper Trunk Automotive tire Automotive exterior


But no sign of the SGW; and it doesn't look easy to remove the BCM.

So yet another case where the TechAuthority Service Manual isn't quite correct.

I do see the video for the 2019-2021 Cherokee:

Jeep Cherokee Bypass Module Removal - YouTube

Well, according to the Service manual :rolleyes: , the radio on the Renegade -- at least with the Uconnect 4C NAV unit -- looks like it's easier to remove than the Cherokee's. You have to pry off the bezel around the screen, and the four screws holding in the radio are right there...

Still, they don't make it easy to use a scan tool like AlfaOBD, do they?
 

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Sitll, they don't make it easy to use a scan tool like AlfaOBD, do they?
That's the way to the world now. Used to be once you bought something you can do with it what you will. Now THEY know what's better for you, better than you do yourself !! YOU own it, but they decide what you can do with it.

Remember when you could "opt out" from getting Windows Updates on your laptop/PC's ? Yep, never get an update. Well, they got rid of that choice... for your own good. Now you can only delay updates...for 7 days. You're gonna get them come hell or high water; they know what's best for you !!

Apple sells iPads. Think you can use it until it dies ? Nope. My wife has an iPad Mini. Yeah, it's old and in perfect condition. Works beautifully. Until recently. She got an notice saying it was no longer supported and she couldn't install new apps. Yes, forced upgrade to the highest. Because Apple wants you to have the latest and greatest... for your own good.

Jeep computerizes the bejesus out of their vehicles requiring special tools and programs to access it...for your own good. Third party makers come along and supply the needed tools. Jeep responds with a gateway that's hard to access....for your own good.

We in the US claim to be "The Land of the Free" while nothing could be further from the truth. We should change that motto to "Land of the Free-as-we-see-fit-for-you-to-be".

So yeah, you can buy a Jeep from them, take it home and burn it down. But DON'T touch that program !!

It's for your own good.
 
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So... I don't foresee doing any extensive adaptation or proxy alignment, since I'm not planning on replacing any modules or components. Everything's set up more-or-less the way I like it, and most common settings are accessible through Uconnect. And I really doubt that theres any way that Auto Stop/Start can be permanently disabled on the current Renegades. (Nice to have the ability to do proxy alignment if I need to, though.)

So I'd be using AlfaOBD most-often to check for fault codes (common ones, and any specific Jeep-related ones) if/when I get a Malfunction Indicator Light (or CEL), and to see if there might not be an inexpensive accessible sensor that I can replace myself. And, of course, to erase the fault(s) afterward, or to see if they were just transitory. That's the way I used my VCDS for our VWs.

Can I at least do that without accessing and bypassing the SGW?
 

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So I'd be using AlfaOBD most-often to check for fault codes (common ones, and any specific Jeep-related ones) if/when I get a Malfunction Indicator Light (or CEL), and to see if there might not be an inexpensive accessible sensor that I can replace myself. And, of course, to erase the fault(s) afterward, or to see if they were just transitory. That's the way I used my VCDS for our VWs.

Can I at least do that without accessing and bypassing the SGW?
You can read fault codes without a bypass, but you need a bypass to clear the fault codes.
 

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On most cars, yes. On cars with a security gateway? Not so much.
Just imagine the added cost to have the dealer clear your codes.... a 10 minute job turns into 2+ hours....when they can fit you in.

Something you used to be able to do in your driveway in seconds.
 
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Just imagine the added cost to have the dealer clear your codes.... a 10 minute job turns into 2+ hours....when they can fit you in.

Something you used to be able to do in your driveway in seconds.
Yeah. Of course, the rationale is that "only" Jeep dealers have the expertise to be able to fix things.

That may be true in many cases. But in many other cases, a good scan tool (like VCDS for Volkswagens) can pinpoint a particular sensor or other simple plug-in component as the problem; and that can be replaced for $35 or so, plus an hour or so of fumbly DIY work int he garage. Even if it's not quite 100% certain that's the problem, it's often worth it to give that a try yourself.

If you can reach the component... Then of course you need to clear the fault code.

Or sometimes there's a very intermittent (or one-time) fault; the only way to check that, to see whether anything needs to be fixed at all, is to clear the code(s) and see what happens...

Well, at least it doesn't look like getting to the SGW behind the radio is that horribly tough...
 

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Yeah. Of course, the rationale is that "only" Jeep dealers have the expertise to be able to fix things.

That may be true in many cases. But in many other cases, a good scan tool (like VCDS for Volkswagens) can pinpoint a particular sensor or other simple plug-in component as the problem; and that can be replaced for $35 or so, plus an hour or so of fumbly DIY work int he garage. Even if it's not quite 100% certain that's the problem, it's often worth it to give that a try yourself.

If you can reach the component... Then of course you need to clear the fault code.

Or sometimes there's a very intermittent (or one-time) fault; the only way to check that, to see whether anything needs to be fixed at all, is to clear the code(s) and see what happens...

Well, at least it doesn't look like getting to the SGW behind the radio is that horribly tough...
Not horribly tough, because they want their techs to be able to reach it while kicking up the hourly rate; but not as easy as it should be.

To me it's just asinine:

To Clear Trouble Codes.
1. Plug in OBD Scan Tool.
2. Remove radio.
3. Plug in SGW.

I bet at first MANY a tech did the WTF ?!?!? REMOVE RADIO ?!?!

Asinine.

And I wonder how many owners have to make a return trip because the tech accidently popped out the radio antenna plug or something while removing and their dash throwing all sorts of errors... only to be told "We can fit you in next Wednesday"...
 
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Not horribly tough, because they want their techs to be able to reach it while kicking up the hourly rate; but not as easy as it should be.

To me it's just asinine:

To Clear Trouble Codes.
1. Plug in OBD Scan Tool.
2. Remove radio.
3. Plug in SGW.

I bet at first MANY a tech did the WTF ?!?!? REMOVE RADIO ?!?!

Asinine.

And I wonder how many owners have to make a return trip because the tech accidently popped out the radio antenna plug or something while removing and their dash throwing all sorts of errors... only to be told "We can fit you in next Wednesday"...
The dealer tool communicates with the SGW, they don't need to use a bypass.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Damn. Can't any basic dumb OBD reader clear faults -- at least basic ones?
I have just a bluetooth one that can read and display codes, exhaust temp, pretty much any sensor in the vehicle. But it CANNOT clear codes unfortunately 😞

I do have a more expensive authorized reader that can clear codes, it's older and I had to do an update for it to work with the jeep but it clears codes. However this was in the realm of hundreds of dollars. The Bluetooth one was like $30?

And to clear the air I wasn't talking about removing the SGW all together just for programming. From my research and understanding of it you just do the bypass to program (like ESS off, or don't throw codes for led lights) then you plug back in the SGW. It says only somethings will be reset at engine turn off. One of those is if you change your idle. (Idk why you would want to change idle, maybe if you're out crawling in it?) Idle has to be reprogrammed everytime you start the car, otherwise it will be default. I'm not looking at messing with any of that advanced stuff.

But again it's expensive and annoying to get to. And it may not allow you to have the ESS off always idk. I mean they still make odb2 plugins that say they will change your fuel mapping or increase power. Which as we discussed, you can't program the jeep without doing a bypass. So 🤷 the other stuff might not work either.

However I have found some rather nice piggyback systems. 😂

If I remember I'll take photos tomorrow of my little Bluetooth guy and actual scanner and then the Bluetooth interface. Hopefully I remember 😂
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
If you can reach the component... Then of course you need to clear the fault code.
Doesn't disconnecting power for like 5 minutes clear those? Idk for sure, this is the first newer car I've had. But in my '04 civic that was always an option?
 

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Doesn't disconnecting power for like 5 minutes clear those? Idk for sure, this is the first newer car I've had. But in my '04 civic that was always an option?
I'll bet nothing clears any fault codes except... clearing the fault codes. With some kind of tool.

That's the way it is with our 2009 VWs -- using VCDS. And I assume that's the way it is with this Renegade.

But at least, like I wrote above, it doesn't look like it's too tough to remove the radio bezel and remove the radio...

Just... a PITA, just to clear codes... :mad:
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
I cannot find my stupid Bluetooth scanner. But I figured I should give y'all an update about the original problem I had.

Finally after two months(had it for 2 and ½ months) I got the dealership to look at my Trailhawk. They said "battery is fine and the aux battery just isn't charged enough" from every user on this site the renegade doesn't have the AUX battery. Nor can I find it in any of the schematics for the vehicle. Plus it was 45 minute drive to the Jeep dealership after fully charging the battery on the car before leaving to go to the dealership. They told me to drive it more, because I guess 700miles wouldn't be enough to charge a battery.

I feel like the dealer is just yanking me around, I went in with multiple problems and well they fix a whooping zero of them. Except they did order a replacement piece for my seatbelt.

However, out of a stroke of dumb luck I guess? I had my roommate hook the battery charger up to my car to charge it and hopefully "charge the aux battery". I wanted to see if I could get the ESS to come on. Well when I went out the next morning to go get it washed I realized my roommate made a horrible mistake. He turned on battery reconditioning, which takes like 24 to 36 hours. 🤦 But then my ESS worked. I have no idea what on earth is going on, but it's been working since. I'll post if it changes, or if I find my stupid scanner!
 

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[Dealership] said "the aux battery just isn't charged enough"
I'm 100% convinced there is no ESS aux battery on the Renegade.

Whether the ESS is working properly may seem like a trivial issue. But it may indicate a bigger problem; and whether or not there's an aux battery may be important.

That was one of my first questions when I joined this Forum over a year ago. My Mopar TechAuthority USB Service Manual mentions that the ESS system uses an auxiliary battery. And some members here said they thought there was a "wee" (to use Puddlesplasher's language) battery.

On the other hand, no one on this Forum was able to indicate what it was, or where. And the dealer told me that the Renegade does not have an aux battery (though the Cherokee does).

If the dealer had told me there was an aux battery, my next question would have been, "OK, could you show it to me?"

I've never caught my dealer in a lie (yet). On the other hand, your dealer did tell you that the red Trailhawk tow hooks were an addition-cost option. :)

None of this is proof. Of course, "absence of proof is not proof of absence." and "you can't prove a negative." But if someone has proof that there's an aux ESS battery, I'd love to hear it (where it is, or better a photo).

By the way, my ESS eventually started working again after I complained about the ESS, and the main battery was replaced under warranty. Just not at quick as I remember at first...
 

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Hi all,
So this is my first "NEW" Jeep. I have a '69 CJ5 Willy's. But I bought a new 2022 Renegade Trailhawk. I have a few questions because I'm worried the dealer screwed with me. I bought it brand new I think 11 miles on it, however when I started the normal upgrades aka installing LEDs. I noticed the panel in the wheel well to replace the fog lights was backwards. Yes completely backwards, the pins were even installed backwards, meaning the Phillips head was on the inside not facing the wheel. I fixed this after a bit of tinkering.

Then later I noticed my driver side seatbelt doesn't have the housing on it around the adjustable part. Passenger side does, drivers side no.

To continue adding to the weirdness, my auto start stop feature always says my "battery is charging" so it's not working. Well I've tried this after hooking my battery up and fully charging it. It will after about 15 miles maybe say my battery is charged and start working. From what I've seen I don't believe the '22 renegades have an auxiliary batteries like some wranglers do for the auto start stop. Yes I did swap almost everything over to LED but it should be pulling less power that stock lights did. So I'm very concerned about this. My battery voltage is always 14v while driving, so I don't think it's the alternator. But ideas or thoughts?

And last thing, the oh sh!t handles in the back seat have hooks on them (for what I always knew with other cars was for a clothes hanger) but mine do not spring back into place. The handle does, but the hooks stay in the position you place them in. Is this normal or are they faulty.
I do understand some of these things are stupid. However dropping a pretty penny on this vehicle (over MSRP because the dealer says the tow hooks aren't standard on the trailhawk, this was after talking then down about 5k) I really want to make sure everything is in ship shape and working well.

I am new to this forum and have been searching threads before I finally asked anything. It's actually been about 3 weeks of searching and figured I might as well ask. I know people say the auto start stop is crap but I haven't seen anything about the '22. So hopefully you all can help me.
Thank you,
Spiz
The panel.....sounds like maybe manufacture ..but weird...seatbelt cover...they might have needed one ....we have used other cars parts to get them out before....but they should have replaced....good luck
 

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I thought the Aux battery, on cars that have that type of stop/start system, is for the car electric/electronics and not the stop/start.


As usual in this case I think the problem is with the battery, or the battery monitoring module that sits on top.
 

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I thought the Aux battery, on cars that have that type of stop/start system, is for the car electric/electronics and not the stop/start.
Well, I've posted this screen shot before, from the troubleshooting section of my 2020 USB Service Manual:
Font Paper Typesetting Document Paper product


It mentions an Auxiliary (Vehicle) Battery several times. Sounds authoritative, which is why I initially believed it was critical and exclusive to the ESS system.

You're right -- they seem to be referring to some kind of tiny (coin?) battery that's used to maintain the memories of the various computers, like if you replace the main battery.

But every Renegade (indeed, every vehicle these days) should have that kind of aux battery for the electronics. So why is this Aux Battery highlighted like this under the ESS troubleshooting section? :unsure:

I still don't think there's an Aux Battery that's directly related to the ESS system operating or not. Maybe someone who's more knowledgeable can decypher this...?
 

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Got it. That article seems to conform what my Service Manual is saying, but it's very general. Doesn't apply specifically to these Renegades, and also not to ESS systems.

My question still is, "OK, if we've got one, what -- and where -- is it?"
 
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