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With My jeep commander I was able to locate a rear glass wiper blade on Amazon. Does anyone know a part number or manufacturer besides mopar that sells the wiper attachment without the entire assembly? I can't believe that jeep is the only place to get this.. The stock wiper sucks..


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Originally Posted by GRUB View Post
I've been looking around so when the time comes to replace the rear wiper blade I will know what it is. I've checked Anco, Trico, Bosch, and Michelin; none of these brands list a rear wiper blade replacement. I did see on Ebay someone was selling the whole rear wiper assembly including the blade. Is that how to replace the blade by replacing the whole assembly?

In the UK, the Bosch H240 Wiper Blade is available.
It is probably the same part.
 

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I think the rear and front glass wiper are sharing the same blade
 

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As promised: BOSCH H240 vs MOPAR original equipment.
See attached images.

In summary: the H240 fits the O.E. arm, but is about 2 cm shorter than O.E. That's only 1 cm shorter on each end of the wiping area - not really a big deal when you consider the cost.

The blades easily snap on and off the arm.

The MOPAR part comes with the arm (why, if you don't need it) and cost me $45.00 (U.S).
The BOSCH H240 was purchased from Amazon.com for $12.24 (U.S.).

A quick Google search seem to show the existence of a BOSCH H260. That may be a better fit, but is not available that I can see. That is purely speculation.

The attached image of my Jeep receipt shows the part numbers and cost for the front wiper blades as well. At least these don't come with the arms.
 

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Wiper arm hack

I'm not trying to redirect this thread, but this is about the rear wiper.

Since I now have a spare rear wiper arm, I felt free to hack it so that it is now able to stay in the raised position (off the window). Many of you who live where the white stuff falls from the sky and the air hurts your face know why this is important. If you need to know why someone would want to do this - you don't need to do this.

I'm not good at "how-to" posts, but the basics are pretty simple if you have a small grinder (like a Dremel rotary tool). One other caveat: I'm not responsible for your hack jobs - just my own.

1) Get the arm off the vehicle and the blade off the arm.

2) Separate the arm at the pivot. Don't try to pull the spring out first. Just grab each half of the arm in either hand and pull straight apart. The spring will yield enough to let you clear the two small tabs that prevent the pivot from over traveling. So you only need to pull the arm apart about 1/4 inch and then you can fold it over to relieve the spring tension. The tension of the spring is the only thing that keeps the pivot joint together. The spring can then be easily removed.

3) Now that you have the spring out of the way, put the pivot back together and you'll see that there are a few places where material needs to be removed to allow the arm to pivot up further. I just ground the offending material away with small grinder. Once that material is gone, the arm (without the spring) will be able to pivot > 60 degrees.

4) That's only half the battle. Now the arm can pivot far enough, but the spring will not allow it - or hold it in the raised position. If you put it back together with the spring you'll see what I mean. There's a little bit of physics going on here that we need to re-engineer.

5) The trick to getting the arm to stay up is that the spring pivot points (where the spring attaches) need to move to the other side of the arm pivot point. To accomplish this, you need to remove material that the straight part of the spring runs into - as the arm is lifted.
Basically you need to remove all the material in the center thin part of the arm - in the area of where the pivot joint is. I even dimpled the center of the pivot shaft - to allow another millimeter or two of clearance. It took a bit of trial and error to get enough material removed (in the right spots). Nothing I did is visible when the arm is reassembled.

6) Once you start reworking it, you'll understand the goal. It does not appear to me that removing the necessary material compromised the strength of the arm in any meaningful way. Once the spring has enough clearance to allow the arm to pivot far enough, the arm will stay in the raised position due to spring tension. Moving the arm back down, beyond the magic balance point, will allow the spring to force the blade against the window again.

This is the first vehicle I've owned with a rear wiper (and I've had quite a few) that didn't allow the blade to be positioned off the glass. Now this one works just as all the others have.
 

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