Jeep Renegade Forum banner
1 - 20 of 26 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
UK: 2ltr Limited 4x4

Hi, The warning lights for side, stop and indicators came up on the dash and sure enough the rear passenger side lights had all stopped working. Bulbs had blown so replaced the stop and side lights first and as I didn't have the correct bulb for the indicator (turn) light, but i removed the old bulb. The two new lights worked, until I replaced the indicator (turn) bulb, then nothing would work but the new bulbs are all fine and work when plugged into the driver side (i plugged the light unit in sol bulbs and unit are okay).

So my question is what on earth could be causing the rear lights to stop working after replacing the indicator (turn) bulbs? The manual shows a fuse unit in the luggage compartment (Unit 2) but my car only has unit one and none of the fuses control the rear lights. Does anyone know where the fuse for rear passenger lights is located. All other lights front and rear are fine, but not sure if this is connected, at the same time the bulbs blew /warnings appeared on the dash, the front anti-collision warning light(system not working) also came on and is still on. Any ideas on what it could be?

Thanks

Mathew
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
My first thought is there's a short along the circuit for the turn signal, which probably has all three of those bulbs on the same circuit. Maybe the socket for the signal is burnt and needs to be replaced or there's a bad grounding connection there? I've got to imagine the fuse is ok if the other two bulbs worked before replacing the turn signal bulb.

Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Hello,
Did you figure out what the issue was? I have exactly the same problem on a 2016 JEEP Renegade limited.

A few weeks ago I got the notification for the indicator light, but I checked all the lights on the car then and everything was working. After restarting the car the warning had disappeared. But now, I got the notification for the indicator as well as brake lights, on the right hand side, and indeed none of the mare lighting up now. Also the front collision warning system is off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Hello,

I had a look and there had been a shortcut between the cable and the connector to the light module, on the center pin (ground). The insulation around the ground cable was also partially stripped, which must have been from the manufacturer... I am not sure how this happened or why the fuse did not blow, but I managed to solder some cables to the pins on the lamp module (which was not easy I might add...), and bypass the connector. Now all the lamps, including the front collision warning system, are working.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Hi Bjorn

I am having the same problem, and also only have the unit A fuse box in the boot: ( did you locate the fuses for the rear exterior lights? As the manual doesn't state where they are if they are not in box B in the boot. Would really appreciate the help:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Just got the same problem, the centre pin (ground) on the connector to the Light Cluster has been arching and eroded away. I would say that both the male (Part of the light assembly) and female (Harness) connectors are both damaged and need replacing.

I think I will look at bypassing the connector for the ground, so its working again, with the least expense. But plan to call Jeep on Monday to complain, Its a 2016 Night Hawk, just out of warranty.

Should this not be a recall, when a safety critical part of the car can fail due to a manufacturing issue?

Also checked the drivers side and seems ok.

IMG_20191207_125401.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
So there is a couple of male spades that you could get a female crimp connector on, but i couldn't fine one.

So I squeezed a bare wire under the grounding circuit on the light cluster assembly (see pic), drilled a very small hole next to the connector and pushed the wire through. Re-assembled everything and stuck the other end of the wire under the stud that fixes the fuse-box in place. I was going to use a snap-lock style connection back onto the ground wire on the harness. But if Jeep do take a look I thought it would be best to be able to remove the temp fix with out leaving any indication that I tampered with it.

A bit shoddy, but a lot cheaper than having to replace the rear light assembly and the boot harness.

IMG_20191207_140630.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
So there is a couple of male spades that you could get a female crimp connector on, but i couldn't fine one.

So I squeezed a bare wire under the grounding circuit on the light cluster assembly (see pic), drilled a very small hole next to the connector and pushed the wire through. Re-assembled everything and stuck the other end of the wire under the stud that fixes the fuse-box in place. I was going to use a snap-lock style connection back onto the ground wire on the harness. But if Jeep do take a look I thought it would be best to be able to remove the temp fix with out leaving any indication that I tampered with it.

A bit shoddy, but a lot cheaper than having to replace the rear light assembly and the boot harness.

View attachment 2396347681
Thank you, you just saved me R6500. I have the 2016 trailhawk and exactly the same problem. Working like a charm now.
 

·
Read Only
Joined
·
108 Posts
Had same problem bulb warning going on and off, mostly fronts directions drls changed to new bulbs, even though old one worked. Problem solved. Electronics very finicky on Renegade.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
So there is a couple of male spades that you could get a female crimp connector on, but i couldn't fine one.

So I squeezed a bare wire under the grounding circuit on the light cluster assembly (see pic), drilled a very small hole next to the connector and pushed the wire through. Re-assembled everything and stuck the other end of the wire under the stud that fixes the fuse-box in place. I was going to use a snap-lock style connection back onto the ground wire on the harness. But if Jeep do take a look I thought it would be best to be able to remove the temp fix with out leaving any indication that I tampered with it.

A bit shoddy, but a lot cheaper than having to replace the rear light assembly and the boot harness.

View attachment 2396347681
Which 'stud' was it that you fixed the other end of the wire to? As the fuse holder is plastic? Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
So there is a couple of male spades that you could get a female crimp connector on, but i couldn't fine one.

So I squeezed a bare wire under the grounding circuit on the light cluster assembly (see pic), drilled a very small hole next to the connector and pushed the wire through. Re-assembled everything and stuck the other end of the wire under the stud that fixes the fuse-box in place. I was going to use a snap-lock style connection back onto the ground wire on the harness. But if Jeep do take a look I thought it would be best to be able to remove the temp fix with out leaving any indication that I tampered with it.

A bit shoddy, but a lot cheaper than having to replace the rear light assembly and the boot harness.

View attachment 2396347681
Thanks so much for this. Also just had the same issue on my 2016 Renegade. Centre connector burnt out. I’ve used your trick with some old speaker wire and it works great...not looking forward to the cost of a complete light unit and boot harness. Thanks again.(y)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,373 Posts
Thanks so much for this. Also just had the same issue on my 2016 Renegade. Centre connector burnt out. I’ve used your trick with some old speaker wire and it works great...not looking forward to the cost of a complete light unit and boot harness. Thanks again.(y)
W E L C O M E ! ! ! to the forum.

You will find all kinds of good information here.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
So there is a couple of male spades that you could get a female crimp connector on, but i couldn't fine one.

So I squeezed a bare wire under the grounding circuit on the light cluster assembly (see pic), drilled a very small hole next to the connector and pushed the wire through. Re-assembled everything and stuck the other end of the wire under the stud that fixes the fuse-box in place. I was going to use a snap-lock style connection back onto the ground wire on the harness. But if Jeep do take a look I thought it would be best to be able to remove the temp fix with out leaving any indication that I tampered with it.

A bit shoddy, but a lot cheaper than having to replace the rear light assembly and the boot harness.

View attachment 2396347681
Would you be able to post a picture of how you connected the fuse box please? I'm having the same issue. I also thought that water could get through the hole you drilled in the grey housing mount for the bulbs?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
After searching this topic and finding others with the same issue, I decided to try to hack and it worked. I took a risk buying the 2015 first year Trailhawk and I loved it - with loaded options. Got tons of use from the MySky. I will post my pictures of what I found and how I resolved it. I recommend getting the replacement harness from the dealer and have them inspect the electrical lines. My Red Trailhawk was awesome and a fun vehicle, but I recently went for the big brother and graduated to a Wrangler Unlimited. Good Luck to all you Renegade owners and thanks for all the great information provided. I hope these pictures help you all.
2396348971
2396348972
2396348973
2396348974
2396348975
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
So there is a couple of male spades that you could get a female crimp connector on, but i couldn't fine one.

So I squeezed a bare wire under the grounding circuit on the light cluster assembly (see pic), drilled a very small hole next to the connector and pushed the wire through. Re-assembled everything and stuck the other end of the wire under the stud that fixes the fuse-box in place. I was going to use a snap-lock style connection back onto the ground wire on the harness. But if Jeep do take a look I thought it would be best to be able to remove the temp fix with out leaving any indication that I tampered with it.

A bit shoddy, but a lot cheaper than having to replace the rear light assembly and the boot harness.

View attachment 2396347681
So there is a couple of male spades that you could get a female crimp connector on, but i couldn't fine one.

So I squeezed a bare wire under the grounding circuit on the light cluster assembly (see pic), drilled a very small hole next to the connector and pushed the wire through. Re-assembled everything and stuck the other end of the wire under the stud that fixes the fuse-box in place. I was going to use a snap-lock style connection back onto the ground wire on the harness. But if Jeep do take a look I thought it would be best to be able to remove the temp fix with out leaving any indication that I tampered with it.

A bit shoddy, but a lot cheaper than having to replace the rear light assembly and the boot harness.

View attachment 2396347681
Okay. Like several of you, have the same problem. As I read your solution, a couple of questions come to mind. My Renegade has three fuse panels: one in the cargo area, one in under the dash board, and one in the engine compartment. Your states that you "stuck the other end of the wire under the stud that fixes the fuse-box in place", but you didn't mention WHICH fuse box, nor how you managed to snake the wire to that particular box. Can you provide more details? Thanks in advance.,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
My rear passenger tail light went out on my 2015 sport. I stopped by a local dealer who said
the ground wire on the connector was burned out. Their estimate was $800 (full retail) for
a new tail light, wire harness and labor. If your vehicle is not under warranty, there is never
reason to use a dealer for service. (Oh yes, the service advisor said they would cut the connector
off the wire harness and solder it to the existing wires). MY FIX:: I went online and found
the connector at www.findpigtails.com who sells all types of connector assemblies. I soldered
the 5 white wires together, covered the connections with heat shrink and plugged the connector in
to give me working lights. Pigtails is my recommended fix and took me one half hour to
complete. Pictures are attached. If you’re not into soldering wires, get the connector and take
it to any shop that works on electrical or radios. No need to buy the entire harness from a dealer.
HERE’S SOME OTHER TIPS: If you search online using the original connector part number, you can
find them for about ten bucks but they don’t come with the wires OR terminals that are needed.
A picture of just the $10 connector without wires is attached. ALSO: If you can find a BMW tail light connector
Model BMW 805-123 which has only 4 wires, It will work too. Picture attached. The normal
Renegade tail light operation only uses 3 wires (for 3 bulbs) and a ground. For now, I'm using my connector from www.findpigtails.com and saving my BMW connector as a backup since this tail light circuit design from Fiat looks sub par. Fiat has great designers but lack in the engineering department.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Your welcome. Here's some additional Pics. My original connector showing the burnt out center ground wire. The small blue painters tape you see on the wires is just there to keep the order. Farthest blue tape is position 1... next closet piece of tape is position 2 etc. ( I did this because two OEM wires are yellow and two are green). I first tried the BMW connector so I cut off only 4 wires from the original connector. I wired up the BMW connector and sure enough.... all the lights worked using the 4 wire connector. If you find that the circuit board attached to the housing has a burnt out center male pin, you may also need to replace that part. The circuit boards are easy to find on eBay.
 

Attachments

1 - 20 of 26 Posts
Top