I want to completely remove the rear seat. I've located all the bolts that screw into the floor. But, the seats have like shafts that go into the interior car walls. What is the trick for this last step of the removal? I've tried applying some force but I've pretty sure there must be a technique that doesn't involve brute force.
Removing Rear Seat Completely
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The rear seats have two main parts: seat and the back (don't remember the exact term => the vertical part
).If the seats are mounted like in european version than to remove the back of the seats, after removing the torx head screw in the inner side, You have, on the side wall of the car, to pull the spring and at same time lift up to the area were the hole is larger.
I can guarantee you that Jeep makes it very very difficult to remove them. Remember it's a world where people want to sue in a heartbeat. And Jeep does not want to be responsible for them coming out of place in an accident. I suggest that you take your car to any auto upholstery place. They remove back seats in cars all day long. They will know the tricks to get them out. And they can do it properly without destroying your car or your seats so you can put them back in when desired. Money well spent.
According to Jeep's shop manual, you use a crow bar to lift it up and out. A block of wood to act as a fulcrum helps a lot. That's what we did and it was relatively easy as long as your crow bar is long enough.
I don't see how to apply that much force in the other direction in order to re-install but that's a problem for another time.
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That does seem excessive, using a crow bar.
Are you removing the seats temporarily or permanently, or are they going to be in/out regularly? It would be wise to go to an automotive upholstery and let them do it if it is permanent or at least ask them to show you how it is done, so you can do it yourself if the seats need to come out again after refitting. I have a Scenic and the seats can be removed and they are damned heavy. In thirty months of having it, you can count the times on one hand that I have had to remove one, two or all three rear seats. Most of the time I can get away with folding the seat backs down and tipping them forward for the majority of loads.
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Jeep makes it very easy.
After unscrewing the T40 star bolt holding the top seats, you push the seat toward the side.
The spring is engaged, and with a flathead screwdriver, insert it where the spring separates the washers inside
the wall of the car, and whala, out it pops. no crowbars needed.
After unscrewing the T40 star bolt holding the top seats, you push the seat toward the side.
The spring is engaged, and with a flathead screwdriver, insert it where the spring separates the washers inside
the wall of the car, and whala, out it pops. no crowbars needed.
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Allegedly spring follows winter, but sometimes seasons merge and it can be hard to tell them apart.
Apologies for that. Sometimes I can't help myself >
Apologies for that. Sometimes I can't help myself >
https://www.wetokole.com/mm5/instructions/Jeep-Renegade-rear-2015.pdf
Maybe this is some help, hope so.
Maybe this is some help, hope so.
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68 Posts
A related question: I want to unbolt the driver seat on my Trailhawk in order to insert a spacer under each of the four mounts. This is because I want to sit a little higher than the max height adjustment allows. I have already loosened one of the bolts, but have paused since it 'jiggles around' a bit. I'm wondering whether there is a captive nut under there that will make it difficult or impossible to screw the bolt (or a longer equivalent) back in. Does anybody know?
I did this same seat lift on my previous AWD (Suzuki) with no problems. It's much nicer to drive, in my opinion, when sitting high. The Renegade, though supposedly small, feels big to me after the Suzuki !
I did this same seat lift on my previous AWD (Suzuki) with no problems. It's much nicer to drive, in my opinion, when sitting high. The Renegade, though supposedly small, feels big to me after the Suzuki !
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Thanks Falcon1. I've unscrewed it a few more turns: strange how it wobbles around ...! Anyway, I feel brave enough now to take it all the way out. I'll let you know later whether it's ok.
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Torx bolts out ok. There is a captive nut in there, but it doesn't move around enough to make re-insertion difficult.
However, I have now found a snag with my seat-raising plan: one rear corner mount is not on the floor, but sideways into the prop tunnel. Still thinking about this .... !
However, I have now found a snag with my seat-raising plan: one rear corner mount is not on the floor, but sideways into the prop tunnel. Still thinking about this .... !
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Driver seat lift now achieved.
The front mountings are left unaltered, but the rear ones are raised using longer bolts and 55mm-worth of over-size nuts (as spacers). On the side nearest the door these spacers are between the floor and the bracket that supports the slider rail. The side nearest the prop-shaft tunnel (left side, in Australia) was tricky: the Torx bolt goes sideways into the tunnel, not into the floor, so it can't be raised. The solution was to raise the seat slider rail, using said spacers between the rail and the bracket (the bracket is sideways-bolted to the prop shaft tunnel).
The seating position is now to my liking and feels MUCH better.
The front mountings are left unaltered, but the rear ones are raised using longer bolts and 55mm-worth of over-size nuts (as spacers). On the side nearest the door these spacers are between the floor and the bracket that supports the slider rail. The side nearest the prop-shaft tunnel (left side, in Australia) was tricky: the Torx bolt goes sideways into the tunnel, not into the floor, so it can't be raised. The solution was to raise the seat slider rail, using said spacers between the rail and the bracket (the bracket is sideways-bolted to the prop shaft tunnel).
The seating position is now to my liking and feels MUCH better.
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