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Renegade audio system

Same plan. What are your ideas on going about this? Is there a factory amp to bypass at all?


I plan to cut the wires coming from the stock radio harness and running the speaker outputs to a amp that has HIputs (high inputs) and then connecting the amps output into the stock speaker wire runs. I hope the stock wiring can handle the increased load. One great amp is the JL audio HD900/5. It amplifies all four "satellite" speakers (stock speaker locations in the doors) and has a dedicated mono output for a subwoofer. These amps are expensive, but worth the investment. Tons of adjustments and a special internal power "filter" that uses electricity smoothly. Hate to sound like a commercial for JL audio...


As for the speakers in the doors, those will me upgraded to match the capabilities of this amp.


Still need to figure out where to mount the amp itself. I thinking either the glove compartment or in the rear next to the sub.


My rene came without a spare tire, and has the round Styrofoam insert in the tires place. This cavity plus the space above it when the shelf is in the "flush" position looks ideal for a custom subwoofer box. Removing the insert and relocating the air pump/fix a flat thing. This way there is no box taking up too much room in the rear storage area..
 

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I actually have a JL audio 700/5 and for the size, it kicks. It currently resides in my MINI Cooper, but I will be taking it out when i sell it. The model I have only takes RCA, so I guess I'll need some kind of LOC. Curious though, since the stock head unit doesn't have a sub woofer out, and the JL amp seems to need one for the sub output, how would you reccomend getting a signal to the subwoofer?
 

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I actually have a JL audio 700/5 and for the size, it kicks. It currently resides in my MINI Cooper, but I will be taking it out when i sell it. The model I have only takes RCA, so I guess I'll need some kind of LOC. Curious though, since the stock head unit doesn't have a sub woofer out, and the JL amp seems to need one for the sub output, how would you reccomend getting a signal to the subwoofer?
EDIT: Upon further investigation, my JL XD700.5 will accept HI level input and won't require an LOC. Also, it will take the input from all four lines in and then use those to create an output for the sub. So glad I have this Amp already!
 

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Hmm... I just read the specs on the HD900/5 and realized it only takes RCA. I thought it had high inputs as well as RCA. That means a 4 channel input converter will be necessary. As far as a sub signal, the converter outputs for the rear channels would be connected to the sub inputs too, via a RCA Y cable. The amp as enough built in filters and frequency cutoff to use the raw speaker signals.


EDIT: I will have to research that amp! Maybe I had the two models confused with each other
 

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Hmm... I just read the specs on the HD900/5 and realized it only takes RCA. I thought it had high inputs as well as RCA. That means a 4 channel input converter will be necessary. As far as a sub signal, the converter outputs for the rear channels would be connected to the sub inputs too, via a RCA Y cable. The amp as enough built in filters and frequency cutoff to use the raw speaker signals.


EDIT: I will have to research that amp! Maybe I had the two models confused with each other
No, I just looked at the manual. And I assume yours is the same as mine, just with more power. There is a switch to set it from low (rca input) to high. Although no apparent high input slots, you just wire the speaker line to rca jacks. It specifically states that a LOC is not necessary.
 

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No, I just looked at the manual. And I assume yours is the same as mine, just with more power. There is a switch to set it from low (rca input) to high. Although no apparent high input slots, you just wire the speaker line to rca jacks. It specifically states that a LOC is not necessary.


Oh man, yeah you're right. I found the switch. I'm not much for reading manuals. I used this amp with an aftermarket head unit with a remote line output. With a stock unit feeding it how to you switch the amp on and off? Can you run the acc power out from the ignition to the remote input? I wondered if full blown 12v would over power the remote signal input.
 

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Oh man, yeah you're right. I found the switch. I'm not much for reading manuals. I used this amp with an aftermarket head unit with a remote line output. With a stock unit feeding it how to you switch the amp on and off? Can you run the acc power out from the ignition to the remote input? I wondered if full blown 12v would over power the remote signal input.
There's a power outlet in the rear that is probably switched via ignition, and that's what I plan on using. I haven't had this car a full 12 hrs and I'm already contemplating how to rip it apart.

My last two installs had the battery in the trunk which made running wire easy. Not sure how this one will be getting power line through firewall.
 

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. Not sure how this one will be getting power line through firewall.


There are a few generous grommets in the firewall already. And as for hiding the wire traveling front to back I plan on fishing a wire bundle through the hollow plastic interior side molding. It looks big enough to feed a fiberglass fishing rod through it*. If you have the 6 speaker setup the rear dummy speaker covers come off easy. Pop them off starting on the front end (towards the engine) and then take a good look inside! There is plenty of room for wiring in there.

*Not a fiberglass fishing pole for catching fish... I have a set of "fishing" rods that are 6 ft long that connect to each other for running wire in the walls of a house
 

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Why is this still a sticky? The one wiring diagram linked is no longer found and the other 2 were never there to begin with. I'm seeing the forum in general needs cleaning up. Does admin need new mods to help with the forum in general? If so I'd like to volunteer. Am retired so it's not like I'm pressed for time to help...
 

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It's easy to remove the head unit (uConnect Infotainment System). Just pry off the trim piece with the 'Since 1941' on it, and then you can see the screws that hold it in. There are no tricks to releasing it, e.g it would be easily swiped. The back of mine had a plastic 'spear' the went in a hole in rear the 'radio bay' which supports the radio from behind. If you want to see some pictures I have them posted on another site. This post has more detail and a link -- http://www.jeeprenegadeforum.com/fo...mp-hooked-up-stock-radio-help.html#post677121
 

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I plan to cut the wires coming from the stock radio harness and running the speaker outputs to a amp that has HIputs (high inputs) and then connecting the amps output into the stock speaker wire runs. I hope the stock wiring can handle the increased load. One great amp is the JL audio HD900/5. It amplifies all four "satellite" speakers (stock speaker locations in the doors) and has a dedicated mono output for a subwoofer. These amps are expensive, but worth the investment. Tons of adjustments and a special internal power "filter" that uses electricity smoothly. Hate to sound like a commercial for JL audio...


As for the speakers in the doors, those will me upgraded to match the capabilities of this amp.


Still need to figure out where to mount the amp itself. I thinking either the glove compartment or in the rear next to the sub.


My rene came without a spare tire, and has the round Styrofoam insert in the tires place. This cavity plus the space above it when the shelf is in the "flush" position looks ideal for a custom subwoofer box. Removing the insert and relocating the air pump/fix a flat thing. This way there is no box taking up too much room in the rear storage area..
Was wondering if you ever made that speaker box for where your spare goes. Would like to see a pic to give me an idea.
 

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radio power on wire

What color is the ignition switch wire or where is it at on the head unit. Thats all I need to know.
On uconnect 5.0 is is position 44, it's +12V when the radio goes on. Use to operate a relay or amp internal switch, not for main power.
 

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