Thank you! I can't wait for the wiring diagram and the door panel removal guide. I plan on using the stock head unit, but installing an amp with HIputs.
I plan to cut the wires coming from the stock radio harness and running the speaker outputs to a amp that has HIputs (high inputs) and then connecting the amps output into the stock speaker wire runs. I hope the stock wiring can handle the increased load. One great amp is the JL audio HD900/5. It amplifies all four "satellite" speakers (stock speaker locations in the doors) and has a dedicated mono output for a subwoofer. These amps are expensive, but worth the investment. Tons of adjustments and a special internal power "filter" that uses electricity smoothly. Hate to sound like a commercial for JL audio...
As for the speakers in the doors, those will me upgraded to match the capabilities of this amp.
Still need to figure out where to mount the amp itself. I thinking either the glove compartment or in the rear next to the sub.
My rene came without a spare tire, and has the round Styrofoam insert in the tires place. This cavity plus the space above it when the shelf is in the "flush" position looks ideal for a custom subwoofer box. Removing the insert and relocating the air pump/fix a flat thing. This way there is no box taking up too much room in the rear storage area..
I actually have a JL audio 700/5 and for the size, it kicks. It currently resides in my MINI Cooper, but I will be taking it out when i sell it. The model I have only takes RCA, so I guess I'll need some kind of LOC. Curious though, since the stock head unit doesn't have a sub woofer out, and the JL amp seems to need one for the sub output, how would you reccomend getting a signal to the subwoofer?
EDIT: Upon further investigation, my JL XD700.5 will accept HI level input and won't require an LOC. Also, it will take the input from all four lines in and then use those to create an output for the sub. So glad I have this Amp already!
Hmm... I just read the specs on the HD900/5 and realized it only takes RCA. I thought it had high inputs as well as RCA. That means a 4 channel input converter will be necessary. As far as a sub signal, the converter outputs for the rear channels would be connected to the sub inputs too, via a RCA Y cable. The amp as enough built in filters and frequency cutoff to use the raw speaker signals.
EDIT: I will have to research that amp! Maybe I had the two models confused with each other
No, I just looked at the manual. And I assume yours is the same as mine, just with more power. There is a switch to set it from low (rca input) to high. Although no apparent high input slots, you just wire the speaker line to rca jacks. It specifically states that a LOC is not necessary.
Why is this still a sticky? The one wiring diagram linked is no longer found and the other 2 were never there to begin with. I'm seeing the forum in general needs cleaning up. Does admin need new mods to help with the forum in general? If so I'd like to volunteer. Am retired so it's not like I'm pressed for time to help...
It's easy to remove the head unit (uConnect Infotainment System). Just pry off the trim piece with the 'Since 1941' on it, and then you can see the screws that hold it in. There are no tricks to releasing it, e.g it would be easily swiped. The back of mine had a plastic 'spear' the went in a hole in rear the 'radio bay' which supports the radio from behind. If you want to see some pictures I have them posted on another site. This post has more detail and a link -- http://www.jeeprenegadeforum.com/fo...mp-hooked-up-stock-radio-help.html#post677121
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