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A few folks asked that I post pics of the install. The Renegade Ready hitch & wiring kit is a great deal. If a person has the tools, time, patience & the desire, the kit is definitely worth every penny. No reason to pay a dealership hundreds of dollars for this. Instructions are phenomenal & you can call them if needed. Brian will talk you through any issues if needed.
I blocked off the entire day knowing it was going to be a pretty big project. It took about 6 hours with breaks, lunch & dinner. Not something you want to rush.

I would say that the 2 hardest parts of the project are installing the bezel & trying to keep from destroying molding clips. The kit comes with 10 clips and I only needed 2 due to being very careful & listening to advise of others. The bezel is hard to install because it is supposed be! It needs to be tight. Patience is a virtue at that point.

Here are pics is chronological order. Feel free to ask away.







The instructions give a great tip on using a tool to depress the back of the blue clips so they can be re-used. I took an old chain pull, drilled the right size hole in it and it worked great.





Here is where you want to be very gentle and only move the body molding enough to remove the 7mm screw. There is one per side so not a big task. Being gentle will result in only replacing a couple blue clips. It will be apparent once you get to this point. The broken clips will have to be removed and the new ones slid into their holders. SPEND THE $6 AT HARBOR FREIGHT OR AMAZON AND GET THE BODY TRIM REMOVAL TOOLS. They work great and will not scratch the body parts.










The old bumper will be removed. I might see if the local junk yard will trade me for a few parts for my '97 Cherokee.




New bumper/hitch installs perfect with 6 additional huge bolts. Instructions show it clearly.



Now is the time for a beer. No rushing here. A short drywall saw works excellent. Don't try to use a razor knife or fine tooth saw as it is fruitless.
The template is perfect.








Test fits along the way...





Putting the bezel in is quite frankly a bitch! It is tight as supposed to be. Just move from clip to clip with patience, curse words and force. Some (gentle) trimming of the slots may be necessary as you go. Gentle heating of the bumper skin can also make the plastic more pliable.



I opted for the permanent wiring so have to cut off factory connector & 4 pin connector on kit and solder them together. Kit comes with heat shrink tube and wire protection hose.



For your hard work & patience, you will end up with a factory hitch that looks fantastic. No reason to pay the dealership $500+ dollars to do this.





I highly recommend the Renegade Ready kit. It comes with absolutely everything you will need sans the basic tools.
 

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Did you get the receiver cover with the kit? I was a early adopter and the contents did not include a cover. It is still not listed in the contents on the web site.


If it came with your kit, I may ask RenegadeReady to send me one. The price has dropped some too since I purchased mine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Did you get the receiver cover with the kit? I was a early adopter and the contents did not include a cover. It is still not listed in the contents on the web site.


If it came with your kit, I may ask RenegadeReady to send me one. The price has dropped some too since I purchased mine.
Yes, the rubber Jeep receiver plug was in the kit. All the hitch parts are stock MOPAR so they may have added them along the way. Renegade Ready may not have them separately but can't hurt to ask.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Excellent job and write-up. Didn't realize their kit was official MOPAR parts.
That is what makes the kit nice. You end up with a hitch as from the factory. They make it easy by putting all the parts needed into a kit. You can order all the parts separately but it's a pain and you won't get the great instructions, templates & customer service.
 

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Hope it helps. I listed a hex screw as 7/16, but I meant 7mm.
Fixed it for you and added to Master DIY list.

Awesome write up.
Thanks

TS


Edit: darn it, aarrghh I forgot to ask you before, (since you had to take off the bumper anyway) about the rear bumper red reflectors, if they were just dummy reflectors or if they were actual lights with a plug that one can add bulbs later on by drilling out the plug. oh well. Maybe the next person who does this job will check.
 
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Excellent write up Gunny!

I managed to break around 8 of those darn clips, I couldn't find anything that would work to release them. Isnt it a great feeling knowing that you have the hitch option all figured out. Before I was able to do it, it weighed heavily on me there for awhile. I have got too much money wrapped up in bikes, hitch racks and small trailers that not having a hitch was pretty stressful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Fixed it for you and added to Master DIY list.

Awesome write up.
Thanks

TS


Edit: darn it, aarrghh I forgot to ask you before, (since you had to take off the bumper anyway) about the rear bumper red reflectors, if they were just dummy reflectors or if they were actual lights with a plug that one can add bulbs later on by drilling out the plug. oh well. Maybe the next person who does this job will check.
Thanks. I did not see any wiring or anything electrical under the fascia. I would have added more details, but the instructions are so good that it really isn't necessary unless someone makes a boo-boo.
 

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Excellent write up Gunny!

I managed to break around 8 of those darn clips, I couldn't find anything that would work to release them. Isnt it a great feeling knowing that you have the hitch option all figured out. Before I was able to do it, it weighed heavily on me there for awhile. I have got too much money wrapped up in bikes, hitch racks and small trailers that not having a hitch was pretty stressful.
One time I used a thin ruler wrapped in paper towel for something similar which helped.
 

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I haven't taken mine on yet. Still waiting on the wiring kit. But in the pictures I have seen, even on RR the location of the slots appear to be visible and distorted. I am wondering by looking at my bezel if the slots should be a touch closer to the center and maybe a little larger opening (going inward) so that the tabs don't need to bend/distort the fascia to go in? Not that I'm knocking anything at all, just a little over apprehensive and very finicky on fit and finish and it's hard to tell by pictures alone. They have one with the tow package at the lot. I am going to see if they will let me take a caliper to the slots (it just arrived still in back). I think I can get around the tabs by the chain holes from underneath, even a visual of that may help me decide. If the slots are larger than the RR template I may take a build the slots from the inside out approach? im hoping for input from anybody that has already done this. Don't trash me too bad, I'm just overthinking it since I don't have all the parts to just do it. Great post retiredguns very helpful
 

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im hoping for input from anybody that has already done this.
I know what you mean about the tabs distorting the fascia. The photos on RenegadeReady do not show the best work.


I just followed the template very closely. I have no signs of the tabs. I think some people may have a tendency to undersize the slots.


I used a drill to make a (straight) row of holes the correct diameter (specified in the instructions) and then connected the edges of the holes with two razor knife cuts. Then just a little clean-up. The material cuts easily - which can be both good and bad.


Keep in mind the angle that the lower tabs are oriented. They are not perpendicular to the surface of the fascia. Cut the slots on an appropriate angle.
 

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