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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so i was going to wait to post this up until it was all done... but someone broke my laptop and i had to hold off buying the rest of the system until i pay off my new computer. but here is the system so far, and a little bit of a walk-though on the build let me know what you think!

first up getting power out of the engine bay and into the cabin



i decided to go in with all the rest of the wires from the engine bay



once you get the cover off the plastic housing around the wire just run the power wire into the grommet with the rest of the wires. i cut the hold in the grommet on the passenger side of the grommet. looked like all the wires were going the opposite way in the car.



sorry the picture sucks but i put a hole in the side with no wires coming out. put the plastic piece back together and your done



Looks stock!

next i got the wires down the side of the car. i ran a few extra wires for switched i may put in eventually. got the wires into the trunk and for the moment left them in the spare wheel foam.



so here was my delima. i wanted a sub but this is what my trunk normaly looks like during the work week



so i got the idea of building the box underneath the storage area.



this is what it looks like on after i was done building it. i spec'd the shallow mount alpine 10" type R.
its hard to tell in the pictures but it goes about1.5 inches below the board to rest on the foam and goes about 3 inches above the board so i could get the minimum 4.25 inches i needed to put the sub in.



this is what it looks like in the car.

then with the floor put back in



just enough room under there for the sub to flex and not his the floor.

so thats all i got now. hopefully in about a month i will buy the sub and we will see how it sounds hidden in there. i may need to get a router or roto zip and make some holes in the floor for sound to come through better but i will figure that out then. i have more pictures of the sub box build if anyone wants to see the rest of it ill post them. thanks for reading!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
This car is a bit of a pain to run wires in. But I ran them under the door molding. There are actually plastic rings that you can run wires in down there that keep them out of the way of the clips. Sorry I don't have any pictures of that
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
almost done!!! should have sound back tomorrow!

used mostly amps i had laying around from previous builds.

wiring underneath

iv got to make a new box thats why there is not carpet on it. that box was for the alpine but i decided to go to pioneer because it used less power and i could not find an amp to power the alpine that was small enough to fit.

cut the speakers behind the radio and put quick disconnects on all the wires. im trying to use as much of the stock wiring as possible so that if there were any reason i needed to take the system out it would literally take me 20 mins to get the stock system working again.
 

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My amp and 10inch sub install

So here it is finally, my write up on doing an amp and sub install. I will be using some picture from previous posters and adding to them, I hope that is alright.

First! B3ND3R Had the right idea of leading the wires through the existing grommet into the cab from the engine bay. But what he forgot to include in his description is that it is a major pain in the ass.



To be able to split the cover like in this photo by B3ND3R, you need to pop the locking tabs in about 12-14 spots. Some of them are really a pain to get too. After that, simply make a small incision into the existing grommet and slide your power wires through.

Here is a picture of mine after putting it all back together:


Now I wanted to run my power along the factory wire loom. I had to take off the passenger side kick panels to do so.

Pop off the triangle looking piece to the left of of your dash, and then pop the lower kick panel right at the top as seen here:


towards the bottom near the floor remove this cover and unscrew the kick panel:


Gently pop the kick panel out and set aside like so:


Since the stock radio doesn't have any RCA outs, this is where I decided to add my converter. I bought in on amazon for $10 and it is adjustable. I spliced into the orange/orange strip speakers wire with a crimp on splitter as seen here:


Follow the kick panels backwards, take note to pop them off gently. I did accidentally break one clip but they appear to be standard jeep/Chrysler clips that you can buy at most auto repair shops.

Here is what it looks like after I put all the kick panels back together:




Pretty clean looking right??

I ran my wires along the rear seat like so:


And they come out the back like this:


So now you may be asking yourself, where is my 12v "on" wire? Well if you have ever taken off the rear speaker looking panels you will have noticed there are some rogue wires in there. This is the one we are concerned with:


I'm not sure what this actually for, but it gets 12v at key on. This is the wire I will be using for my 12v on wire. I simply cut off the plug leaving a fairly good amount of wire in case I need to re attach it later. I also attached my ground wire to the big bolt holding the fuse box. I made a small cutout in the plastic panel with a dremel to allow the wires room. Put the cover back on at you can't even notice it.

Here is what the rear cargo area looks like at final install. My amp is attached to the back of the sub box and all my wires are easily disconnected if I need to take it out for storage purposes.


I hope this helps someone. It took me around 5 hours to complete. I am very happy with how it came out. I can take more pictures if needed. Please ask away!
 

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I'm trying to do the same and not sure what you meant by orange/orange strip wire. I don't see anything like that. I saw orange/blue. Orange/green. Orange/white. Orange/black. And did you connect both left and right to the same wire?
 

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So here it is finally, my write up on doing an amp and sub install. I will be using some picture from previous posters and adding to them, I hope that is alright.

First! B3ND3R Had the right idea of leading the wires through the existing grommet into the cab from the engine bay. But what he forgot to include in his description is that it is a major pain in the ass.



To be able to split the cover like in this photo by B3ND3R, you need to pop the locking tabs in about 12-14 spots. Some of them are really a pain to get too. After that, simply make a small incision into the existing grommet and slide your power wires through.

Here is a picture of mine after putting it all back together:


Now I wanted to run my power along the factory wire loom. I had to take off the passenger side kick panels to do so.

Pop off the triangle looking piece to the left of of your dash, and then pop the lower kick panel right at the top as seen here:


towards the bottom near the floor remove this cover and unscrew the kick panel:


Gently pop the kick panel out and set aside like so:


Since the stock radio doesn't have any RCA outs, this is where I decided to add my converter. I bought in on amazon for $10 and it is adjustable. I spliced into the orange/orange strip speakers wire with a crimp on splitter as seen here:


Follow the kick panels backwards, take note to pop them off gently. I did accidentally break one clip but they appear to be standard jeep/Chrysler clips that you can buy at most auto repair shops.

Here is what it looks like after I put all the kick panels back together:




Pretty clean looking right??

I ran my wires along the rear seat like so:


And they come out the back like this:


So now you may be asking yourself, where is my 12v "on" wire? Well if you have ever taken off the rear speaker looking panels you will have noticed there are some rogue wires in there. This is the one we are concerned with:


I'm not sure what this actually for, but it gets 12v at key on. This is the wire I will be using for my 12v on wire. I simply cut off the plug leaving a fairly good amount of wire in case I need to re attach it later. I also attached my ground wire to the big bolt holding the fuse box. I made a small cutout in the plastic panel with a dremel to allow the wires room. Put the cover back on at you can't even notice it.

Here is what the rear cargo area looks like at final install. My amp is attached to the back of the sub box and all my wires are easily disconnected if I need to take it out for storage purposes.


I hope this helps someone. It took me around 5 hours to complete. I am very happy with how it came out. I can take more pictures if needed. Please ask away!
Don't know why my last message didn't reply to this one but I am a little confused on which orange wire and where you put the positives and negatives
 

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I know this post has been over a year old buts it's one of the best post that I found to install amp and sub. The question that I have is. Where did you hook up the ground wire? I was thinking about tapping a bolt under the front passenger panel to run the ground. Do you think tapping a bolt is a good idea?? Please reply so I can get this done. Trying to get this done this week thank you.
 

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I know this post has been over a year old buts it's one of the best post that I found to install amp and sub. The question that I have is. Where did you hook up the ground wire? I was thinking about tapping a bolt under the front passenger panel to run the ground. Do you think tapping a bolt is a good idea?? Please reply so I can get this done. Trying to get this done this week thank you.
I used the bolt under the fuse box. Someone else had used the same area and advised me. Worked out well.
 

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I have an older infinity Basslink that I never installed in my last car. After replacing the factory speakers in my 6 speaker system, there is something off and I think adding the basslink will help fill the sound. Of course I lost my wiring harnesses while it was in storage, so I ordered the same LOC that OP has and I will use the RCA inputs instead. Looking at the photo, Nick1236 has this installed next to his seat. Is it just connected to the left front/rear door speakers wires? Or does all of the speaker wiring run down the drivers seat? I was under assumption it needs to be wired to the left and right speakers. Thanks for any insight.
 

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My amp and 10inch sub install

So here it is finally, my write up on doing an amp and sub install. I will be using some picture from previous posters and adding to them, I hope that is alright.

First! B3ND3R Had the right idea of leading the wires through the existing grommet into the cab from the engine bay. But what he forgot to include in his description is that it is a major pain in the ass.



To be able to split the cover like in this photo by B3ND3R, you need to pop the locking tabs in about 12-14 spots. Some of them are really a pain to get too. After that, simply make a small incision into the existing grommet and slide your power wires through.

Here is a picture of mine after putting it all back together:


Now I wanted to run my power along the factory wire loom. I had to take off the passenger side kick panels to do so.

Pop off the triangle looking piece to the left of of your dash, and then pop the lower kick panel right at the top as seen here:


towards the bottom near the floor remove this cover and unscrew the kick panel:


Gently pop the kick panel out and set aside like so:


Since the stock radio doesn't have any RCA outs, this is where I decided to add my converter. I bought in on amazon for $10 and it is adjustable. I spliced into the orange/orange strip speakers wire with a crimp on splitter as seen here:


Follow the kick panels backwards, take note to pop them off gently. I did accidentally break one clip but they appear to be standard jeep/Chrysler clips that you can buy at most auto repair shops.

Here is what it looks like after I put all the kick panels back together:




Pretty clean looking right??

I ran my wires along the rear seat like so:


And they come out the back like this:


So now you may be asking yourself, where is my 12v "on" wire? Well if you have ever taken off the rear speaker looking panels you will have noticed there are some rogue wires in there. This is the one we are concerned with:


I'm not sure what this actually for, but it gets 12v at key on. This is the wire I will be using for my 12v on wire. I simply cut off the plug leaving a fairly good amount of wire in case I need to re attach it later. I also attached my ground wire to the big bolt holding the fuse box. I made a small cutout in the plastic panel with a dremel to allow the wires room. Put the cover back on at you can't even notice it.

Here is what the rear cargo area looks like at final install. My amp is attached to the back of the sub box and all my wires are easily disconnected if I need to take it out for storage purposes.


I hope this helps someone. It took me around 5 hours to complete. I am very happy with how it came out. I can take more pictures if needed. Please ask away!
Got anymore pictures ? The ones on the post aren’t showing up
 
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