Thanks for sharing, keep us posted.
Upgrading 6M Clutch and Flywheel.
83K miles. 2015 Sport 1.4T and 6M tranny. 95% expressway miles. Meaning 1 mile to highway, 50 miles at 65mph, 1 mile to work.
Always a smoothly engaged shifter and clutch. Never an issue. Never dropped or burnt.
And then last week, the sound of dried leaves swirling around a bushel basket loud enough to make you step back came from the clutch area against the engine. The flying debris sound stayed at a constant speed, just up and down on volume with engine revs. i couldn't definitively rule in or out internal problem on that side of engine internals. Having a 100K engine warranty, I dropped it at the dealer where it was making the racket for the service writer, but then later not for the mechanic. Seriously. Not the mechanic. i even went down and it was dead silent. Been driving it since and with very little of the same noise. I'm just going to drive till it explodes to get a hard diagnosis. I think the 22# DMF is coming apart. Mild harmonic vibration from a few days before the noise through to today still. I'll link the sound file later.
Why don't I ditch it? The chassis is perfect, engine perfect, about to refresh the brakes, ball joints, shocks. Even when refreshed, the Renny is only valued at about 8K. Where could I get anything this refreshed for that low $? Even with new upgraded clutch, we're at $9.5K for a fantastically upgraded, like new Renny I couldn't get anywhere. And I like the darn thing.
I'm readying by getting a SPEC Stage 1 clutch (organic) to mate to a Clutch Masters Steel Flywheel FW-401-SF. A stouter clutch pack to a 19# single mass billet steel flywheel. I'll followup as things happen.
Always a smoothly engaged shifter and clutch. Never an issue. Never dropped or burnt.
And then last week, the sound of dried leaves swirling around a bushel basket loud enough to make you step back came from the clutch area against the engine. The flying debris sound stayed at a constant speed, just up and down on volume with engine revs. i couldn't definitively rule in or out internal problem on that side of engine internals. Having a 100K engine warranty, I dropped it at the dealer where it was making the racket for the service writer, but then later not for the mechanic. Seriously. Not the mechanic. i even went down and it was dead silent. Been driving it since and with very little of the same noise. I'm just going to drive till it explodes to get a hard diagnosis. I think the 22# DMF is coming apart. Mild harmonic vibration from a few days before the noise through to today still. I'll link the sound file later.
Why don't I ditch it? The chassis is perfect, engine perfect, about to refresh the brakes, ball joints, shocks. Even when refreshed, the Renny is only valued at about 8K. Where could I get anything this refreshed for that low $? Even with new upgraded clutch, we're at $9.5K for a fantastically upgraded, like new Renny I couldn't get anywhere. And I like the darn thing.
I'm readying by getting a SPEC Stage 1 clutch (organic) to mate to a Clutch Masters Steel Flywheel FW-401-SF. A stouter clutch pack to a 19# single mass billet steel flywheel. I'll followup as things happen.
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Here's the cause of all this: All the above getting shoved in the next few weeks.
My best guess is now, a spring came out and is being tossed around the bell housing.
Basket sound
The SPEC 1 disc is organic with copper and kevlar fibers. 6 springs from oem's 4. Useable friction thickness is 1.25mm each side before you hit rivets. Average in most makers is that or slightly less.
My best guess is now, a spring came out and is being tossed around the bell housing.
Basket sound
The SPEC 1 disc is organic with copper and kevlar fibers. 6 springs from oem's 4. Useable friction thickness is 1.25mm each side before you hit rivets. Average in most makers is that or slightly less.
I really like the SPEC clutch kit. I used one in one of my old Hot Rods. I would use them again.
Well...my machinist backed out. Flywheel doesn’t mount up to his balancer. Needs to be hard mounted, can’t be creative with cones. So $$$ to lathe an adapter. Low on manpower, nobody’s picking up orders, etc.
Not easy finding someone who can balance a clutch / flywheel nowadays. 40 years ago around here you couldn’t swing a wrench without hitting a real machinist.
Not easy finding someone who can balance a clutch / flywheel nowadays. 40 years ago around here you couldn’t swing a wrench without hitting a real machinist.
Back on it again. Without disassembly, determined we could lathe out the flywheel center hole to one inch so he could get it on his balancer and balance everything. Pic soon.
Deyeme racing has completed their clutch delay valve replacement assembly. Looks OEM but with billet parts. No bleed port. May have intended to use original section and clip onto that during installation. We’ll see. Pics soon.
I’m 75% done with tear down. With 4wd, gotta drop the PTO then the tranny. Now I understand the labor costs.
Deyeme racing has completed their clutch delay valve replacement assembly. Looks OEM but with billet parts. No bleed port. May have intended to use original section and clip onto that during installation. We’ll see. Pics soon.
I’m 75% done with tear down. With 4wd, gotta drop the PTO then the tranny. Now I understand the labor costs.
I’m a bit lost.
did you buy a new flywheel or are you trying to resurface and rebalance the OEM?
did you buy a new flywheel or are you trying to resurface and rebalance the OEM?
Got the new blue steel flywheel above. The 3/4” center hole didn’t allow it to fit onto the machinists balancer. Didn’t know if we could lathe it out to 1” without having opened the clutch and looked. Turns out after a shoot load of research, you can. So he did, got clutch/ flywheel combo balanced. Using a SPEC stage 1 organic clutch.I’m a bit lost.
did you buy a new flywheel or are you trying to resurface and rebalance the OEM?
Then got held up last 6 months with this pandemic and couldn’t get to it till now.
I did the tear down last week and discovered the thrashing sound was not the clutch disintegrating but a flange nut somehow got down into the bell housing and behind the flywheel. Danced around like a BB in a bottle.Didn’t hurt anything Inspection of Clutch and flywheel surfaces looked like 5k miles after actual 85k. But the oem flywheel was knackered. Insides were shot. No return on rotation, rotation of over 2cm, and it wobbled front to back left to right.
So just checking in till some parts come in. Besides it’s all cleaning and prepping for winter etc. till next week. Driving my track car so I’m in no hurry. 🏎
Man I don't know WTF you just said but it sounds real good, can you do that to mine too?I'm readying by getting a SPEC Stage 1 clutch (organic) to mate to a Clutch Masters Steel Flywheel FW-401-SF. A stouter clutch pack to a 19# single mass billet steel flywheel. I'll followup as things happen.
(/Not-Mechanically-Inclined)
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